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Discussion Starter #1
I have been looking into refinishing options for my 336 post fluting, I have been quite keen on the idea of a flat black mil spec type finish. Duracoat is one option but is quite expensive and I've heard it is simply car paint. Would any 2 pack epoxy enamel work as a durable finish?

I was thinking of contacting the local paint shop, I have access to spray gear but thought a small sample of a car paint might be more cost efficient and achieve a similar result to duracoat.

Does anyone have any experience/knowledge of what paints would be suitable? I am only wanting to cover the metal work.
 

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Check out..."TOP GUN ENTERPRISES" (WWW.GUNFINISH.COM) great work, reasonable price, FAST turn around. I've had a few guns done, and will again!
 

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Duracoat and paints in general aren't too great on gunmetal unless you parkerize it first. They're really better on stocks and such.

You might want to look at KG Gunkote.
 

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Earplay, I do not have any alternatives to Duracoat. I love the stuff and have had considerable experience using it on "many" AK's that I built, with excellent results. I find it to be extremely durable. My favorite color is "HK Black" which is a satin black color, kind of in between gloss and flat. I also like to coat stainless scope rings with it( because I love stainless rifles but like black scopes on them). Duracoat is extremely thin and when properly applied, makes the metal look like the color is in the metal and not painted on the metal. Duracoat does not require heat to cure. However, you must give it plenty of time to fully cure. I give it 2 weeks before even reassembling the parts. But, it is worth the wait. A four ounce bottle of Duracoat with an appropriate size container of hardening agent sells for $16 from Midway USA. and all I have used to apply it is cheap Harbor Freight air brushes that sell for around $5. Use about 40 pounds of dry air pressure. Practice with it a little on scrap pieces of metal before doing your project. You can do clean up with Lacquer thinner, but before the stuff hardens, up to 2 hours. That being said, sources say that Duracoat is actually an automotive paint Dupont calls Polane. Whether it can be bought in small quanities at automotive paint shops, I don't know. Duracoat supplies good directions to their product. The most important thing is to have your surface to be coated, absolutely clean. I am contemplating coating the barrel of a stainless rifle I have with Duracoat HK black. The stainless receiver is engraved and the stock is walnut, so it would give the rifle the look of a blued gun with a "French Grayed" receiver. Good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses. I went to a local car paint shop but the problem there is they won't sell any hardner in small quantities. Duracoat here in NZ is around $45US for the 4oz bottle. The website says it is suitable to apply over gun blue and doesn't need blasting neccesarily. Seems like good stuff but kinda pricey... here anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes I had a jam with some BBQ type paint on the mag tube, worked well. The only downside is it required heating to 350 deg C to cure properly. I ended up cooking it in the fire place on a rack, not so keen to do the same with the whole rifle ;)
 

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Hey buddy! You want me to send you some?

BTW, did you get the trigger?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Doc,

Trigger hasn't arrived as yet, from what I could gather from the USPS sight looking at 6-10 working days so hopefully will see it next week. If its legal to send some duracoat that would be great. The only supplier in NZ has run out of matt black and reckons its 5-6 weeks away...
 

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Let me know what color you want and we'll do it like we did the trigger.
 

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Okay I might be out of line on this, as I am kinda new here but what is wrong with re Blueing the old girl or new gun . I like my steel guns to be blued and my Stainless to be silver.
I have tried diff coating's and stuff in the past but non really held up to father time.
 

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68Glenfield said:
Okay I might be out of line on this, as I am kinda new here but what is wrong with re Blueing the old girl or new gun . I like my steel guns to be blued and my Stainless to be silver.
I have tried diff coating's and stuff in the past but non really held up to father time.
Not out of line at all. Your tastes seem to lean toward tradition...BUT...why did you try various coatings yourself?

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I really like the blued look but want something with a bit more rust protection. If I had a stainless that would be ideal. My 336 is being set up for a lightweight bush gun so I need something durable to work in with that purpose. In hindsight I would probably have been better off with a stainless model but am making do with what I have... also painting a gun seems like a fun project :)
 

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If you really want that duracoat to be durable on the gunmetal you should parkerize/phosphate it first. The spongy structure of the phosphate gives the paint something to grab onto. Paint over park beats park alone any day, because with the park alone you'll need to keep oil on there all the time to prevent rust.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Decided to run with the Norrel Moly Resin on this one, thanks for the advice. From what I gather, sandblasting should be a good surface prep. Couple of questions however,

- Garnet media is cheap and available here, can anyone recommend a grade? Im thinking the super fine will be good, recommended for car panel refinishing.

- I realise I need to protect the bore and chamber but what about the inside of the reciever, ie where the bolt sits? I am keen to coat in there as the Moly offers good lubrication but is there any chance of doing damage with the blaster?

Cheers,

Matt
 
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