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Picked this JM up last year Shoots pretty tight except that the impact moves low and to the left after the first 2-3 shots. Shot it enough to see that pattern. Works fine for hunting as I shot it once at a deer last year and that's all it took. Still kind of a PITA. Wonder if it would pay to work over the rings and forestock . That sling came with it but is long gone.

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Years ago, this was explained to me, by an 'old timer' ... barrels are/were heat treated\tempered in bundles.

The ones at the center are more evenly (for lack of a better term) heated/tempered than the ones toward the outside of the bundle. Short story ... as the barrels heat up (from firing) the metal tends to return to its original shape(?) ... hence the barrel wants to return to its molecular aliment. It 'walks'.
 

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Many rifles move their point of impact when the barrel heats up. This is worse with thinner barrels and with barrels that are not free floated.

With a two piece stock there are contact points between the fore stock and the rings that are not present with a one piece, free floated stock.

How much does the point of impact walk after three shots? Will you still be in the "boiler room" with a warmed barrel? If you typically only need 1-2 shots, the others are not an issue.

It's great to have a rifle, especially rare for a lever, that will shoot sub 1" groups at 100 yards, but you're still only shooting paper. Good for high fiber diets.

It's not possible to completely free float the fore end on a two piece stock. There will have to be contact somewhere. But you can relieve the barrel channel in the wood and open up the upper portion of the rings. Realize that you may end up with a "loose" fore end. Can you live with that? Is it worth the trade off to you for a smaller five shot group?

One approach to accuracy is to use a consistent amount of up pressure, usually a nub or a pad, between the fore stock and the barrel. This won't work for a lever with a tubular magazine since this would be pushing on the mag tube, instead of the barrel.

Another exercise would be to remove the fore end wood and the rings and shoot your rifle from the bench. See if that makes a difference. It could tell you whether the barrel pressure against the front furniture is changing as the barrel heats up.

I've seen recommendations to relieve the fore end wood and the ring contact, then install a silicon caulk or sealer as a shock absorber between the mag tube and the barrel and between the mag tube and fore stock. This gives the barrel some room to wiggle during firing.

One recommendation. Try resting the receiver instead of the fore end on your front support during shooting. And use a towel or at least your hand between the fore stock and the front rest when shooting.

If you really want to pull out all the stops, get a copy of M L McPherson's Accurizing the Factory Rifle. He has a long chapter on lever action rifles and goes into details of glass bedding the receiver and installing a rear stock through bolt. Good ideas. Do they work? Don't know.

Good luck.
 
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I did loosen up the forestock on my 35R as it walked to the right after the first shot even. Would walk about 3" at 50 yards after about 3-4 shots. Mostly I think it would be nice to be close not off 4 inches or so. This rifle walks about 2" low or better and about 3-4" to the right at 100 yards. If it were a couple of inches it would not be so bad. I never have cared about the magic 5 shot groups, but it is a slow process to sight in cold like that.

I always check the impact of a cold rifle before hunting. Most don't walk like that.

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I have a few rifles that do this, my Savage 99 EG in 300 savage being one. I sight them in so the cold bore shot goes exactly where I want it. The next 2-5 shots don't go very far, still minute of deer.
 

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Next time you shoot it try putting two more rounds into the magazine after the first two shots. Remember the harmonics are changing as rounds are less and less from the magazine. Or just shoot several rounds single shot and see it the pattern changes. Just a possibility and a guess...
 

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I’ll just throw this out for consideration. You might think about cyroing your barreled action. I initially did it about 30 years ago to a couple fine shooting match grade barrel to get them to shoot in the zeros. That didn’t happen, probably because I didn’t posses the skill.

I and a few friends have sent in various good barrels (not match grade) for the cryo treatment and to the man found the treatment helped in reduced fouling and fliers. No improvement in consistent accuracy, meaning our 3/4” groups didn’t improve to 1/2” or better BUT it didn’t degrade accuracy either. Stringing happened after 5/7 rounds of moderate fire, like one shot every 20/30 seconds usually caused vertical stringing - cryo stopped that but grip or shoulder pressure might cause it.

I’ve got one AR barrel in for treatment as I write, mainly for ease of cleaning and hoping I might find some accuracy potential with a couple loads that seem to always throw 1 or 2 rounds out of a nice tight group. Not counting on it but it would be nice to see all 5 playing nice together.

Never did a lever action barreled action, but don’t see how that would matter, so it just might help some, one just needs to gamble and find out, but it is an expensive gamble.

I have always used 300 below zero - I heard of them 1st in precision magazine and have just stayed with them. Price has increased over the years to $100 and you pay to ship to them - they pay return shipping.

If one can start out with a good hand lapped and heat treated match barrel - that would cure a lot of potential accuracy related problems. But we always can find ways to chase bug hole groups, such as purchasing titanium firing pin, stronger firing pin spring, custom triggers etc.
 

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Clean barrel to start, shoot a few rounds and the point of impact moves?
Or, dirty barrel to start, shoot a few rounds and the point of impact moves?
Bore lightly oiled after last use? Dry? Chamber clean?
 
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Clean barrel to start, shoot a few rounds and the point of impact moves?
Or, dirty barrel to start, shoot a few rounds and the point of impact moves?
Bore lightly oiled after last use? Dry? Chamber clean?
You mean all of that stuff matters?
How about factory or hand loads?
jacketed bullets or cast?
phase of the moon, etc, etc .........

I think HIKayaker said it best, "good luck". ;)

..
 

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You mean all of that stuff matters?
How about factory or hand loads?
jacketed bullets or cast?
phase of the moon, etc, etc .........

I think HIKayaker said it best, "good luck". ;)

..
I asked my questions because the OP never specified. And YES, it matters. Clean barrels often shoot to different POI than dirty barrels.That's the reason hunters and target shooters put fouling shots through a clean barrel before they check zero.
 

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I asked my questions because the OP never specified. And YES, it matters. Clean barrels often shoot to different POI than dirty barrels.That's the reason hunters and target shooters put fouling shots through a clean barrel before they check zero.
Always deer hunt with a "dirty barrel" because of what you just stated. Shot a lot of rounds through the rifle last year to determine the issue. Had some issues early on with how I held the rifle. I can hold a bolt action pretty loose but he levers I need to snug up to my shoulder. What makes this a pain is that one cannot go out and just sight in the rifle, you need to come back to make sure. I often shoot 1 shot and walk down to see where it hit leaving the action open for the barrel to cool better. My Marlin Cowboys did not give this issue, as they are rifles and not carbines with he barrel bands. The old 35R also has no bands. My bolt actions don't do this either. I do prefer the short rifle configuration over the carbine because of this. Was told Winchester 94's also have a tendency to walk when they warm up.

With the other type of rifles I sight in in one range setting and then shoot a coupel of rounds cold to make sure later.

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