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Hey guys can you give me some advice on a good cleaning kit for my new 1895? I can't seem to find much information on the best way to clean the gun or what to use. Thanks so much! Here are some pics of it!




 

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Thanks so much RR! You are always so helpful. The description says that the highest bore brush in the kit is a .40 cal. Does that pose any problems or do you not even use a bore brush? Sorry for the newbie questions :)
 

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Renegade87 said:
Thanks so much RR! You are always so helpful. The description says that the highest bore brush in the kit is a .40 cal. Does that pose any problems or do you not even use a bore brush? Sorry for the newbie questions :)

;D I forgot about that...you can buy a 45 caliber bore brush separately, all other needed stuff is in the kit.
 

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RR is there a thread on here anywhere that explains a thorough cleaning process? I found the disassembly threads and I believe I have that part down. I just need sort of a step by step, I know it doesn't need to be completely cleaned too often, I just want to since it's been on the shelves for awhile. Piece of mind I suppose. Also, when do I use the Hoppe's as opposed to the BF?
 

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Renegade87 said:
RR is there a thread on here anywhere that explains a thorough cleaning process? I found the disassembly threads and I believe I have that part down. I just need sort of a step by step, I know it doesn't need to be completely cleaned too often, I just want to since it's been on the shelves for awhile. Piece of mind I suppose. Also, when do I use the Hoppe's as opposed to the BF?
Follow the instructions that come with the kit...

Use the Hoppes at least once a year (very thorough cleaning...I usually do this after hunting season is over), all other times just use the CLP because its not as hard on the barrel steel.

I've never used the stuff that came with those kits...its probably decent stuff though.
 

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I've used an Otis kit before, it's pretty decent, and looks to be a pretty good bang for the buck. I made my own 'kit' with a toolbox from the hardware store and a bunch of stuff from Brownells. I have probably about 5 or 6 Dewey coated rods and jag and brushes, more cleaners and greases and oils than I can shake a stick at, tons of patches, medical swabs, bore guides, and other such things in there. I don't want to know how much money I have in this 'kit' ;D

Something else you may want is a mat of some sort, or some old towels. Nitrile or latex gloves are decent to have, too. Some of this stuff you're really better off not to get on your hands too much. You might want a big container of cue tips. I like the medical swabs a little better but they both get the job done.

For general cleaning I like CLP, bores Hoppe's Benchrest copper cleaner (of the course of a couple days) for jacketed, and Ed's Red for powder fouling and leading. Then I'll usually leave some CLP in the bore at the end and leave it there until shooting day to protect the bore. For oils I've really been liking FP-10 lately, my autopistols seem to like it better than anything. RIG (rust inhibiting grease) definitely has its place.

There seem to be a lot of good products out there these days. The nice thing about CLP is that it will pretty much do the job of all of 'em well enough. The main exception to those is particularly the M1 Garand and M14 which demand grease. To a lesser extent I like SLiP 2000 in the AR-15 a lot better, and FP-10 in the autopistols. But with a simple old Marlin you have nothing to worry about :)
 

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i was issued a couple otis kits while i was overseas, i think they're OK but they could use improvement. i do like the cable so you can go breach-to-muzzle. basically a bore snake with attachments. CLP does work beautifully for breaking up carbon and lead deposits as well as penetrating the pores in the steel to help keep it lubricated the stuff even removes rust! personally i cannot stand the stuff, but that's just my unfounded opinion ;).
 

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There are a lot of good cleaning chemicals available so I won't go into suggesting one of those because everybody has their favorite. Just get one that cuts copper and lead and then get Gun Scrub spray to clean out the mechanism. Use a bore snake instead of a rod and brush. Some custom barrel makers will not honor their warranty if you use a rod. They suggest only the bore snake. You really need about 2 or 3 of them.

Check this procedure out. It works for me.

http://www.accuracysystemsinc.com/Barrel_Break-In.php
 

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I too own several Dewey rods and their accessories.

I also use a 'cradle' (MTM, I think!) and 'pad' it with old towels.

I'm of the opinion to use a bore brush (bronze, NEVER stainless!!) that is 1 size larger than the bore.
In the case of my .45-70s, I use a 28 ga shotgun bore brush, on the Dewey rod.

Hoppe's #9 removes just about everything that can be removed, but, "Kano-Kroil" is incredibly good at getting under lead deposits/fouling and helps lift them up and away from the rifling.
Two words of warning about Kano-Kroil:
• It's expensive.
• You need to follow up with Hoppe's #9 then a GOOD oil/preservative! Kroil gets down into the metal. You need to preserve the steel after using it!

Also, I cut/shape the end of old (sometimes new) toothbrushes to get into the action and brush out any residue that may be inside.
(I love how my wife gets angry when I take her toothbrush!!! Who said marriage ain't fun?!?!) ;D
 

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Don't know if those kits have jags or just brushes and the patch thimble. I started using jags with my muzzleloader to get a clean bore after using the bore butter to keep the residue low. I use them on smokeless guns for the same reason. Am I screwing up and wiping too much oil out? I don't have any rust?

FYI - not often but sometimes I find a selection of dental picks is useful.
 

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Guess I can't forget 35 yrs of cleaning carburetors but an air compressor can sure be handy. Borrowed a friend's Glock 19 for a GSSF shoot & when I returned it, he called & asked me how I got it so clean in hard to reach spots. Just wear your hearing protection, I'm half deaf now.
 
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