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You want copper free bores in your rifles? If you do then here is a very easy way to get just that and for very little money. 1 six volt lantern battery, 4 gator clips, 10’ of number 12 wire, carbon steel welding rod 3’ long( for Tig or Oxygen/Acetylene welding )
Black electrical tape, Heat shrink tube that fits the welding rod, 1 empty fired case with primer in it, 1 roll TFE pipe tape, Industrial ammonia, Duct tape.

Everything except the fired case can be bought from a welding shop, Wal-Mart and Radio shack.

1. Cut #12 wire in half approx 4.5’
2. Strip wire ends and crimp or solder Gator clips on wire.
3. Put shrink tube on end of welding rod that will be inserted into the empty case, so that the rod is insulated from the fired case approx 3”
4. With the black tape wrap the welding rod with enough tape to center rod in bore in 3 to 5 spots depending on how long your barrel is, DO NOT COVER ENTIRE ROD WITH BLACK TAPE, remember the black tape is to insulate the rod from the barrel and also act to center the rod in the barrel, metal from the rod most be exposed inside the barrel.

How To Use:

1. Take fired case and wrap TFE tape around rim (if rimmed) or shoulder if un-rimmed, not a lot maybe 3 to 4 wraps. This will seal the bore.
2. Insert prepped case into chamber and close action, Note: action will not close all the way the object is to keep and maintain a seal.
3. Stand rifle muzzle up somehow, I use a bench vise, but there are other ways one is to hang the rifle from a small rope or strong string, as long as it is straight up and down.
4. Insert prepped rod all the way down into the fired case, with the Heat shrink down into the chamber.
5. Wrap duct tape on the end of the barrel as if you are trying to make the barrel longer, the object is to over fill the barrel with ammonia so it will not dry up, the duct tape is the dam, the inside of the barrel must always stay full of ammonia ALWAYS!
6. If you have a Voltmeter you can check in OHMS if the rod is open the barrel, it cannot be shorted, no Volt meter go on to step 7
Note: see tips below.

Recap: The plug is in the rifle (fired case) the rifle is straight up and down, the rod is in the barrel, shrink tube in the chamber, rod is open (not shorted), duct tape is in place.

7. Fill barrel with ammonia to about half up on the Duct Tape.
Check for leaks around action and watch level on duct tape.
8. Attach negative (-) lead (wire with gator clip) to rod (on metal) to negative terminal of battery.
9. Attach second wire to the Positive (+) battery terminal and attach to barrel of rifle, front/rear sights are a good place, if no sights hopefully your gator clip is big enough to fit over barrel.

You will start to see bubbles in the ammonia within 5 minutes that shows it is working, if you don’t see bubbles then it is not working and your rod is shorted to the barrel.

DO NOT COOK NO LONGER THEN 1 HOUR, 1 hour will clean the toughest copper fouling in any rifle.

Wrap scope in clear plastic wrap, you know the kind your wife has under the counter, saran wrap(sp) keep an eye on ammonia level.
Wrap a paper towel around barrel below duct tape to catch any ammonia.
After this process make sure you clean your barrel and action very good as ammonia will work on metal if it is exposed to metal and air at the same time, as long as metal is immersed in ammonia nothing bad can happen to it, if you don’t believe me then clean a piece of carbon steel and immerse half way in a cup with ammonia, let set for several days and you will see that the part that was immersed is perfect but the part at the fluid line will have some discoloration.
A good way to see if your rod is open or shorted is have the leads hooked up like you are going to cook and ( YOU CAN DO THIS BEFORE ADDING AMMONIA)get a 6volt light bulb and place the light bulb on the crown of the barrel with the middle part of the light bulb touching the crown and then have the outer metal shell of the bulb touch the Rod ( you are putting the bulb in the circuit ) if it lights up you are good to go, if it will not light then you are shorted (rod to barrel).
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