Marlin Firearms Forum banner
1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a thirty-year-old 336C that I bought from a neighbor. Before I bought it a few months ago, I borrowed for deer hunting last fall. I put sixty rounds through it at that time to get a feel for it.

He made it clear that the gun wasn't shot many times before 2010, and I believe him.

I have cleaned the bore eight or ten times this winter and the patches keep coming out dirty. I don't understand where that much residue could be coming from, but I am a new gun owner.

The bore looks nice and smooth when I look up at a light from behind.

Do I just need to keep cleaning it? Anyone have a similar experience?

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,665 Posts
Try a bore snake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
186 Tmanbuckhunter said:
Are the patches literally coming out black? What are you using to clean the firearm?
Not black, but pretty dark. And it doesn't seem to be getting much better. I am using a gun-cleaning solvent from Cabela's. Then I am using a brass rod and a .30 caliber brush.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
13,799 Posts
Try some hoppes 9.

As long as the patches are coming out light grey with a bore solvent, then dry it out with some clean patches, then oil a patch and leave a light film in the barrel.

Here is what I do with my only bench rest gun... dont practice this on other guns but it works out great on it.

Brush 5 times, run patches until light gray. Brush 5 more times, run patches until light grey, dry out, oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,665 Posts
Does your solvent have ammonium hydroxide in it?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,547 Posts
The black may be be coming from the solvent reacting with the bore brush...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,665 Posts
oscarflytyer said:
The black may be be coming from the solvent reacting with the bore brush...
That is why I was asking about the ammonium that is present in solvent that is advertised to remove copper. I used to use it but discovered that it actually eats the steel, erodes. It is a slow process but it is not what I want to use any longer.
Probably eating the brush and the brass rod.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
766 Posts
Believe it or not..try some windex green with vinegar..NOT regular windex with ammonia.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, guys when I get home I'll check for the ammonia.

I'll try Hoppes 9.

Is a bore snake a good tool?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,547 Posts
If you have a lot of copper fouling left in the bore, do a one time clean with one of the specific copper cleaners.

For every day, all around cleaning and maintenance, I use homemade Ed's Red. It cleans very well and makes it easier to clean each time. It will not, however, disolve copper. Why you need the copper solvent first, and occassionally to remove any copper.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
23,807 Posts
Brush to loosen up residue.

Swab with solvent.

Tip bbl down on a few pages of newsprint and let drain you will notice a green ring this is copper.

Wipe with patch, brush, re swab and tip bbl down again.

Repeat until green ring is non existant.

Your bore is clean.

Dry patch until it comes out clean.

Lube patch and store or go out and get it dirty again.

Lot of us over do the cleaning, me I do it when the guns groups start opening up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All right, I assume I was seeing the brush reacting with the solvent. the bore looks so smooth and shiny when I hold it up to the light!

I'll take a look at my solvent when I get home to see if it's the wrong stuff. Thanks all for your help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was using Birchwood-Casey Bore Scrubber® 2-in-1. I can't tell if it has ammonium but it smells like it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,169 Posts
LuckenbachTexas said:
+1

I have said many times on Marlin Owners what I think of Bore Tech Eliminator. After cleaning bores with Barnes CR-10, Sweet's 7.62, Outers foaming bore cleaner, Butch's Bore Shine, Hoppes, yada, yada, yada until they were "clean" and then trying the Bore Tech Eliminator, I was amazed at how clean they weren't.

Use the Bore Tech Eliminator in conjuction with a Nylon brush on a carbon rod, dampen a patch, place it over the top of the brush, swab, reverse the patch and swab, then repeat with a second patch in the same manner, then brush with the brush dampened with Bore Tech - - 12 to 15 passes, then repeat with another dampened patch, reverse and repeat. Allow the bore to remain damp for about three minutes, and repeat the entire process a second time. Following this, dry patch until the patches come out clean and dry. Then repeat this entire process one more time.

By the second time you swab, brush and dry in the manner described above, you will be amazed at how much fouling was left behind by all the previous solvents.

If in doubt, before you start to clean, run a clean, dry, white patch from chamber to within about 1/2" of the muzzle and look down from the crown to the patch under a good light through what you believe is a clean bore. This will give you an idea of how much fouling exists on your lands and grooves. Then clean the bore with Bore Tech a couple of times. After the Bore Tech, run another clean, dry, white patch from the chamber to within 1/2" of the muzzle and then have another close look...

You will be amazed, just like I was the first time I used three years ago. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,665 Posts
toggy said:
I was using Birchwood-Casey Bore Scrubber® 2-in-1. I can't tell if it has ammonium but it smells like it.
If is smells like a skunk it is a skunk. ;) Ammonia eats brass and copper and will leave the patches darker. Would be OK to use if you neutralize after cleaning but it is safer and easier to just use some plain #9 Hoppes. I have talked to a chemist and he did tell me that Ammonia Hydroxide will eat your bore, it is a slow process but the more you use the more it eats away.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
8,169 Posts
A few years back, I finally depleted my various solvents that were ammonia based in favor of the Bore-Tech.

One of the great things about the Bore Tech Eliminator is that is biodegradable (according to their claims), the wife doesn't even notice when I am using it - it has virtually no smell, let alone an offensive one, it is pretty gentle on barrel steel, and it removes fouling (particularly copper) that the ammonia based solvents won't touch.

I think the single best thing I can say about it is that it doesn't stink and the wife doesn't notice when I am using it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
DWB said:
A few years back, I finally depleted my various solvents that were ammonia based in favor of the Bore-Tech.

One of the great things about the Bore Tech Eliminator is that is biodegradable (according to their claims), the wife doesn't even notice when I am using it - it has virtually no smell, let alone an offensive one, it is pretty gentle on barrel steel, and it removes fouling (particularly copper) that the ammonia based solvents won't touch.

I think the single best thing I can say about it is that it doesn't stink and the wife doesn't notice when I am using it.
I'm a Bore-tech fan as well. use it on all my firearms and it does a great job of cleaning out the carbon. Also have used one of their products for cleaning copper residue. Have found copper cleaning to be particularly daunting on some of the old milsurps I've purchased since it seems to be endless. Boretech works ... get it!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
Poor toggy,
You must be sagging under the weight of all the advice you have had. :eek:
My 2cents is
Drench the bore with Bore-Tech. I use a syringe attached to a piece of hose.
Push a bronze brush Straight Through. Do Not reverse direction.
Do this once for every shot fired. Rinse the brush in water to kill the solvent.
Patch out after 10 strokes. Continue with another brush and another "dose" of solvent.
When the requisite number of strokes is complete, patch out again but then, apply more solvent with a non-reactive bristle brush. You can reverse these things in the barrel to speed the process.
Leave 1/2 hour, muzzle down and patch out. If the patch is still blue/green, the bore needs more work.
If it comes out clean.......

GOOD HUNTING ;D ;D
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top