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Discussion Starter #1
Merry Christmas to all.


Can anyone tell me if the cheek weld with a scout scope mounted on the XS Lever Scout Scope Mount
(part number 28-2169B-092-2) is similar to the cheek weld with iron sights ?
Or rather, is a scout scope setup closer to the iron sight cheek weld than the weld you get with a traditional scope ?
I guess nothing is as close to the barrel as iron sights are.

I recently put my first ever scope on a rifle and I just can't get used to the "jawbone weld" I now have to use.
After some research, I found what I thought to be the lowest possible setup - the Talley Ex-low one-piece base/ring set.
A fine product by the way, from the great state of South Carolina (shrimp & grits... take me home)
but my cheek weld was still way higher than with iron sights.
I realize that a cheek rest pad could have helped, but that's just more junk on the rifle.

For my first scout scope, I'm going with the NCStar one, so any ring suggestions would be very welcome.

For anyone out there who is approaching the... vintage for finally needing a scope, I have to tell you that looking
through a scope for the first time was a real Hallelujah moment for me.

By the way, the scope is a Redfield Revolution 2-7 X 33, which is clear and bright.
 

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Merry Christmas to all.


Can anyone tell me if the cheek weld with a scout scope mounted on the XS Lever Scout Scope Mount
(part number 28-2169B-092-2) is similar to the cheek weld with iron sights ?
Or rather, is a scout scope setup closer to the iron sight cheek weld than the weld you get with a traditional scope ?
I guess nothing is as close to the barrel as iron sights are.

I recently put my first ever scope on a rifle and I just can't get used to the "jawbone weld" I now have to use.
After some research, I found what I thought to be the lowest possible setup - the Talley Ex-low one-piece base/ring set.
A fine product by the way, from the great state of South Carolina (shrimp & grits... take me home)
but my cheek weld was still way higher than with iron sights.
I realize that a cheek rest pad could have helped, but that's just more junk on the rifle.

For my first scout scope, I'm going with the NCStar one, so any ring suggestions would be very welcome.

For anyone out there who is approaching the... vintage for finally needing a scope, I have to tell you that looking
through a scope for the first time was a real Hallelujah moment for me.

By the way, the scope is a Redfield Revolution 2-7 X 33, which is clear and bright.
I'm thinking through the same process right now that you just described.

Cheek weld is definately a concern.
 

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As you said, it is all about the mounts, regardless if it is scout or traditional. That said, I do think the XS mount sits a little lower than some of the traditional mounts out there. Any time you put a scope on it is going to rise just that much higher from the bore and obviously, higher than irons. But I do not find the weld on my scouted W a problem at all.
 

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The 336BL's cheek weld with the lever scout and Leupold 2.5x28 on low QD rings is about the same as the 336C cheek weld with 63B/low rings Leupold 2-7x33. Both are higher than the cheek weld of the 336BL using the ghost ring sight. And I think the ghost ring sits higher than the factory buckhorns.

Marlin336.jpg
 

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I found the cheek weld to be very similar to using iron sights..it's just a couple of whiskers taller

I never had a cheek weld problems, even when using the dreaded see-thru mount (I know, but it was a long time ago)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When in doubt, draw it out.

Let's say the centerline of a particular scope is 3/4 inch above the hammer spur.
Then my eye needs to be 3/4 inch above the hammer spur, no matter where the scope is mounted.
So the key for me is to reduce this 3/4 inch as much as I can.
A thin scope, the lowest base, and the lowest rings will all help.

I'm hoping that there is a large enough viewing angle to a scope (centerline +/- a few degrees),
such that mounting further forward will allow me to keep my head lower and still be in this window.
I notice on my 2-7 scope that the viewing angle at 2X (Exit Pupil = 13mm) is much larger
than that at 7X (EP = 5mm).
And I find that I don't need the higher end of the magnifications,
it's the clearer aiming system through a scope that I really need.

We'll see.

Maybe I'm just going to have to get used to a different weld.
I've gotten used to less salt in my food and less volume on the stereo and that didn't kill me.
 

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I have no experience with the scout scope set up. However, I agree with what you have discovered about your 2x7, I have recently mounted a 2X7 redfield on my 336C and also find that leaving it on lower power is the best setting for me, I seem to be able get quicker target acquisition and it just feels like the right amount of eye relief for me when I shoulder the gun.
 

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My 336W has Tally extra low 2 piece rings and Leupold 2-7x28mm VX-II. I really can say that the cheek weld with this set up is very close to that of iron sight.

I really love how low, compact and light this setup is with the ram-line ugly black stock. But I built it to be as light as I can get.

My next step is finding out how much I will loose by going to a 16 1/4" inch barrel of a Marlin 336Y with this same setup. But that is for another thread.

As soon as I can figure out how to post pics I plan on doing so
 

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I have a scout scope on my 336 and even though it's higher than the stock irons, it's still very comfortable to shoulder and shoot.
 

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Stay "Low" and you'll be fine. I have a few scout set ups on different Marlin levers.
 

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For me it's tricky. Any Marlin except the old ADL's the comb is too low. Even w/a scout. They are a bit lower than the standard scope set up but niether is ever low enough for me.
 

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The cheek weld "issue" is going to be an issue regardless of whether it's a scout or more conventional receiver setup. FYI. The scope's line of sight is just a lot higher than the bullet's.

One other thing about scout scopes. I have tried running them. I don't like them much. Why? They are the bee's knees, right?

They have terrible, terrible glare issues. If the sun is behind you, or off to one side behind you, in a receiver mounted scope setup your entire head is shielding the scope from glare. Imagine you are trying to keep a silver dollar from glinting in the sun. Much easier to do if it's 3 inches from your head, and almost always in the shadow of your head, than if it's at arm's length.

Does that make sense? My opinion, and I offer it respectfully, is that the scout scope is a device who's time has passed. Yes, when Jeff Cooper was in his prime, lots of common rifles had issues with receiver mounting. And lots of scopes were not the common 1-4 variables we have now--it was much harder with a 6x or even 4x fixed scope to keep a sense of situational awareness ie what is happening outside the magnified world in your scope box.

But those days are passed. Most folks can now run a scope at 2x or 1x power for brush hunting, then dial the power up if they need a long shot. Scopes have improved in quality several hundred or thousand percent since Cooper was in his prime. Heck, a $200 Leupold has optics BETTER than a $500 Leupold from 7 or 8 years ago.

Anyway, just my opinion. No offense to anyone. The scout scope idea had more relevance 40 years afo, due to the technological limitations of the time (both in mounting and in scope technology) than it does today, when we can set our scopes at 1 or 2x and still maintain good situational awareness and speed, yet dial up the power for long shots.
 

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Hey Guys,

I don't have much of a problem with my setup... Evil black rifle with Tally Extra Low mounts and Leupold 2-7x28mm.

Black Devil 30-30.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well for what I thought was a surprisingly low price, I have a 2 X 20 scope and some low rings on the way here.
I'll either be happy with this lower setup or else I'll just have to stop whining and learn to shoot in a new way.

Thanks, everyone.
 
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