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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay, I picked up 2 pounds of capping wax last night. It's pretty durned clean, but I'd still like to clean it more. Having never done it before, I'm wondering if straining it through about 4 layers of cheese cloth would do the trick...........or is there some sort of "secret" to doing a thorough job?
 

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I haven't done it yet, but was watching this

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Interesting video. Thanks. I sure wouldn't ever have thought of putting the wax on top of water to melt it. I've always heard of the double-boiler method.

I watched several of the videos attached to the one you linked. This one impressed me.
It showed a 5-micron filter that really cleaned out any gunk. I just ordered one on Amazon.com. I think that'll give me some really nice wax.
 

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Ok - as a bee keeper I'd like to add a couple of things.
Capping wax is the crème de la crème of beeswax. It is used for the best candles, soaps and such.
For use as a lube you've wasted your money IMHO. Normal old beeswax is yellow. The reason it's yellow is because the bees line the cell with propolis and also pollen and stuff gets embedded.
None of which affect the properties of the wax and none of which are corrosive or abrasive. So why spend more?

Next - do NOT use your good cookware for melting wax. You'll not get it off without ruining the vessel. That stuff will get on everything. You think how hard can it be melting. That's not the issue - it's very thin and coats everything and there's no way to contain it. My best effort involved coating the pot with vaseline.

If you do melt your wax to remove impurities only worry about mechanically "filtering out" the big stuff. If you try to use cheesecloth you will end up with a wax embedded cloth. It's that simple. I have had success using a strainer for the big stuff - remember this will now be rendered useless for anything else.
The best method is to get the water hot - not boiling - until the wax melts (about 180 degrees if memory serves). Then let it sit there - with heat applied continuously - for 24 hours. Most of the stuff will settle to the bottom. Turn off the heat and let it cool undisturbed. Then you can take the solid disc of beeswax out in one piece. I then take a hot knife and make cubes or just cut it off as I need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good info, BubbaJon, thanks.
 

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By the way - an interesting fact so you can appreciate the stuff and how hard the girls work to make it.
2.5 million flowers visited for a pound of honey.
It will be the life work of almost 800 bees flying 55,000 miles to produce that pound of honey.
It takes the equivalent of 8 lbs of honey to produce a pound of beeswax.
So show the stuff some respect!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Indeed, I will.
 

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IS this for a cap and ball pistol? I have my mother in laws C&B and wondered how to keep the dang thing in there....


Doc
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No, Doc, it's not. I'm making up some of Wind's Wonder Wax. If you want to keep a ball in the cylinder of a cap & ball, use bear grease. :biggrin: In the absence of that, use any good bearing grease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just for "giggles", I melted down the wax and ran it through an auto-body painters straining cup. Took out a lot of impurities.....though there was very little to filter. When my 5-micron filter comes in next week, I'll melt it down again and run it through there to get that nice creamy clean wax like I want for the WWW recepe.
 
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doc
crisco or lard works great for cap and ball preventing flash over, by the way the ball should be larger than the chamber mouth shearing off a (ring) of lead going in. ruger old army takes a .457 dia most of the others take a .454 ball grease should not have to hold it in. undersize ball in a c&b revolver is asking for a lot of unwanted noise (sounds like a full auto)
 

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cool, I was just wondering since its sitting here and I have never fired one... Maybe give it a go at some point

Chris, if your making up WWW then I can only come to the conclusion that you are now casting for yourself? HEHE at first it was "im not going to reload" LOL


Doc
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Actually, no, Doc, I'm not casting. As I've previously mentioned, I've too many irons in too many fires. It's much easier to purchase lead elsewhere. I can melt the lube out of any bullet I've got, or can order from Oregon Trails sans lube.
 

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as sgtdog says, he is just circling the airport right now, but it wont be long. he brought some lead ingots over today for me to test bhn on (i think he is getting close)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Now Bill, I told you I'd had those inguts since my black powder days.............back in 1970. I was just curious as to how hard my lead was. Who knows, I may need to sell it. With the way things are going in our country right now, lead may soon become as valuable as silver! I honestly don't want to cast. My interests include shooting, reloading, carving, woodworking, photography, and paragliding. I'd say I have my hands full.............too full in fact. Don't need to take on another hobby.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Job? Job? I ain't working no job! I hate work! Havin' too much fun havin' fun! :flute:
 
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