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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have some time today and will post what I have on the trigger group teardown and the more important re-build. This will take a couple posts so please standby until I post all that I have.

For information only. Should only be done by a gunsmith. And like many things - it comes apart easier than it goes together.

Pardon my spelling and syntax - and I am not a great typist either.... ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Re: Camp 9 trigger group breakdown

1- remove the retaining ring Part # 30 on the Marlin parts manual.

2- Place a pin (paper clip will do - I used a red handled punch in the picture) so the hammer strut spring will not go flying.

3. Release the hammer by holding the hammer with your thumb and gently press the trigger and slowly let the hammer move to the fired position to release the hammer pressure on the spring. The hammer strut will stop at the installed paper clip.

Keep the pin in the hammer spring strut and remove as a unit from trigger housing.(see next post).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: Camp 9 trigger group breakdown

3- remove the left hand side plate #54.

Now comes the part where springs start comming out. Go slow and do this in an area where you can find a spring when you drop it on the floor.

4 - SLOWLY remove the right side plate by gently prying front to back easing the plate out. watch the ramp spring #18 under the feed ramp # 17.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Re: Camp 9 trigger group breakdown

5 - Trigger parts will come out - do so one at a time so you can see how they come out.

6 - The Ejector pin is the only pin that is not on the side plate. The ejector and pin really does not need to come out. Part # 32 is the magazine (trigger) disconnector that causes trigger creap and keeps the trgger from moving when a magazine is not in the well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Re: Camp 9 trigger group breakdown

7 - When you pull the safety out - there is a ball and a spring in the hole where the orange tooth pick is pointing.

8- All the parts (except the Magaizine Disconnector and Ejector) laid out for inventory and cleaning.

This was the easy part.

Do not use Bore cleaner or any harsh solvent or you could disolve the plastic parts. I used Hoppes #9 on the steel and Dishwashing soap and water on the plastic trigger housing. Make sure you dry the plastic parts and especially the holes where the springs go before reassembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
First step in re-build after cleaning -

Insert trigger and place trigger return spring on top of the aft part of the trigger. I use a machinist scribe but any pointed probe/pick/small screwdriver will do. I place my "pick" over the back pf the trigger Guard (part 61) and under the "U" of the trigger return spring (part 66) to pry up the return spring and slip the trigger under. have a "Temp" pin handy to hold the trigger in place after you get the return spring in place or the spring could move the trigger out of place. For the Temp pins I use medium finishing nails that I have cut off the pointy end and rounded it off some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Re: Camp 9 trigger group breakdown

In the above picture you see the sear spring (part 52) on top of the trigger. In another post it was suggested that there is a smaller end that goes in first. I need to check mine but I don't recall this in my rifle. I need to look again, will report when I can.

To get the sear (part 51) in you need to place the sear on top of the trigger and move it aft compressing the sear spring. I use a Temp pin and a small pin punch to work the sear back into place. This can go very fast or take several tries. Go slow and you will get it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Place the Magazine trigger block (#33), the Hammer (#26), the Safety (#47) and the Trigger Block (#68 on the same pin station. Remember the Trigger block Spring (#69) goes in before the Trigger block.

Edit: I forgot to add - before installing the safety you need to insert the Safety Spring (#49), the Safety Plunger Ball (#48. I would push the ball in with a pin of the same size as the hole the ball went in and then slide the safety back into place. The spring will then hold the safety in place as you work on getting the other parts in place.

Here is the parts with the Hammer out and then in place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Moving forward place the Magazine Disconnector (#32) on the Magizine Disconnector Spring (#34) with the "extension end" to fit into the "U" of the Magizine Disconnector Trigger block (33). Hold in place with a Temp Pin.

Next place the Feed Ramp (#17) on top of the Feed Ramp Spring (#18 and hold in place with a Temp pin.

Sit back and enjoy a moment, you are almost there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Now comes the "FUN" part. You need to push the Temp Pins out with the side plate that has the pins sticking out. I start this up right and then lay the Trigger Guard (#61) on the side plate and "Walk" the side plate pins in - to push out the temp pins. This can take some time. Slowly tilt the trigger group to move the side plate pins into the holes in the trigger guard (#61)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
When it looks like this you just need to put on the other side plate and install the Hammer Pivot Pin Retaining Ring (#30) and your done. Edit - read next post before putting on the side plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I'm getting tired. I forget to install the Hammer Strut (#27) Hammer Strut Spring (#29) and the Hammer strut Bridge (#28 before you place the left side plate back on. . Keep the Pin in place until you get it all back together and cock the hammer to take pressure off the pin so you can slide it out.
 

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Thank you for your time and patience in putting this together.

This topic needs to be "stickied" at the top of the forum.

Here are my .02 cents to share with anyone attempting dis-assembly and re-assembly based on my experiences.

My sear spring was tapered - the smaller side had to go toward the sear in the trigger assembly. They may not all be like this, or perhaps mine is worn in a way that only allows it fit properly one way.

Also, I found it easiest to use a 3/8" long slave pin to assemble the trigger outside of the action and drop it in as one unit. The slave pin can be pushed out with a longer temporary pin to hold the unit in the action for reassembly.

If the trigger does not reset after assembly, the trigger return spring (#66) has dropped below the rear of the trigger assembly.

If you cannot get the hammer to move back to the cocked position to release the pin in the hammer spring strut, lift the rear of the sear gently with a punch to release the hammer and then rotate the hammer back.

Rotating the cartridge feed ramp down toward the magazine well before reassembly seemed to take some of the pressure off of the spring underneath, making it easier to push the right side plate pins onto the action.

When the right side plate (with the pins) was almost completely on, mine would stop and wouldn't budge. The lip of one of the pins would catch on the square hole in the trigger block ( #68 ). Pushing down on the trigger block frees up the pin. This was always the last barrier to allowing the whole thing to pop together.

Hope this help other folks trying to work on the Camp 9 for the first time.
 

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Great Post and thanks for all the work putting it up.. It may be moved from here to Reference Library though so a search will turn it up easier for all..
 
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Is there any way to replace the hammer strut bridge without completely breaking down the trigger group? Mine hammer strut bridge is broken and I purchased a replacement from Jack First, but I am somewhat intimidated by the above steps. Thanks!

DTW
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yes, All you need to do is Relax the hammer by pulling the trigger. With the strut bridge broken you may have to move the trigger by hand. Then remove the "Hammer Pivot Retaining Ring - part number 30 on the Camp 9 parts list", remove the side plate. DONT REMOVE THE OTHER SIDE PLATE!!!!! You will have access to the strut bridge/spring/hammer strut assembly. Remember that you will need to compress the spring on the Hammer Strut (#27 on the Camp 9 parts list) with the strut bridge attached at the end of the spring - then pin the strut bridge in place (remember there is a hole at the end of the hammer strut). Install it in the trigger group, replace the side plate and attach the retaining ring.

#### whenever you compress a spring - it can go flying whe you don't want it to...!!!! So I recommend you find a large clear bag/tupperware container to cover your hands/spring when you compress. If you think about this you won't have to ask how I know......


In case you do not have acopy of the manual:

http://gunshowonthenet.com/Gun_Manuals/Gun_Manuals3/Marlin_Camp_9.pdf
 
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