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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a short barreled 336 at a LGS this morning. Pretty sure it is a Marauder. It’s been a working rifle at for most of its life and it has light pitting and flecking on the receiver and barrel. I can live with that. It appears to also have had a butt cuff for several years at some point and you can really tell where it was in contact with the wood for so long. I do not want to refinish the stock as I appreciate its well used vintage patina. Is there a way to improve the appearance of the butt stock without refinishing it
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Make it three “no’s.”
If you want to keep that original patina look, remove the present stain/oil finish, very gently sand any raised fibers off and then refinish with Tung oil.
The scratches and any other characteristics that you like, will still be apparent, but the coloration should be consistent.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i wasn’t even considering refinishing it, just wondering if I could minimize the ‘shadow’ the cuff left. I disassembled it and cleaned the stocks good with diluted Murphy Oil Soap. Once dry, I gave it a coat of renny wax and it looks a good bit better. Good enough for me anyway - I’m thrilled to have it.
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Serial numbers starts with a Y.

I may give the mineral spirits and Tru Oil a go. Right now the barrel band screw isn’t cooperating at all so I haven’t had the foreshock off yet. I would want to do both together.
 

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+1 for tung oil. It's really easy to blend in, you can't tell it's a re-finish. I used it on a stock that had significant damage to the finish from snow and sleet. I carried it on a three day very wet/cold hunt. Luckily, it was a stainless barrel, and I kept the receiver oiled, so no damage to the metal. Homer Formby low gloss (tung oil and polyurethane blend) is first choice at this workbench.
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I've used this product on several old rifles I don't want to totally refinish. This was a Savage 23 sporter from the 20's. Just scrub with 0000 steel wool, wipe and let dry!



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This stuff is the bomb!!
I'm a sucker for beat up .22's, and pick them off the gun show tables all the time.
Howard's and some 0000 steel wool, very gently rubbing away years of dirt won't make the mark from the slip on go away, but it will make the whole stock look better.
The trick is to know when to stop rubbing. You are cleaning, not sanding!
Then a couple coats of Johnson's Paste floor wax and you are ready to take that jewel back out in the field.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That looks great! Right now I am struggling to get the barrel band screw out. That sucker is tight. Looks like someone has already boogered the slot up a little bit so i’m reluctant to put too much umph on it. I don’t want to do anything until I can work on both pieces of the wood at the same time.
 

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I've used this product on several old rifles I don't want to totally refinish. This was a Savage 23 sporter from the 20's. Just scrub with 0000 steel wool, wipe and let dry!



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The restore a finish is truly your best bet to make the difference disappear without a refinish.The darker area is just a bit of oxidation and probaly some dirt,the lighter area has been protected from the elements use the restore a finish then a light coat of boiled linseed oil rubbed in left for a day then wiped off it may still be a bit off just do again it will balance out without any abrasives or finish removal ,if you use tung oil after wards it will not harm it ,BUT ,tung oil will put more gloss than the original oil finish,fine if that’s what you want,but Marauders we’re made before Marshield,and the best approximation of that eras finish is boiled linseed oil ,which is a duller sheen than tung oils give ,it has a low shine beauty all it’s own,this is my opinion,arrived at after a few years of wood and gunstock finishing experience,and looking for the best finish to match my 1966 RC’s original finish which was very similar to walnut M1’s and M14’s,which were BLO after being soaked in vats for awhile reportedly.When Marshield came about it was a nearly impervious clear finish that lay like laquer on top of the wood but it changed the whole look of the walnut and not for the better except it was water proof ,Water proofness has never been really neccesary in gunstocks ,they aren’t exterior units or installations except maybe in wartime -steady maintenance or plastic construction took care of that.it’s really,really hard to keep a wood gunstock waterproof even with a “waterproof” finish anyway,but we don’t usually keep them outside if we aren’t outside also.Mine at least goes with me even at a hunting camp.
Sorry ,as usual I got long winded to make a point,:rolleyes::censored:
 

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I have " gently restored" three 336s recently. All were missing their bullseyes....so I
Got replacements from Jack First Gunparts -- great qualiy.by the way.
After protecting the area around the new bullseye, with 2 layers of blue painters tape... I Sanded the bullseyes to flush and properly curved.
To Restore the stocks....I used 00 steel wool to remove about 2/3 of the old finish...then switched to 0000 steel wool to remove the rest of old finish down to the wood surface.
There is still old finish left in the pores of the wood....but I have removed all the surface scratches and a portion of the old dents...so they are deminished.

RESIST the urge to pull out your sand paper ! DO NOT PULL OUT ANY SANDPAPER.....It will only cause your restoration to LOOK LIKE A REFINISH.........DID I MENTION ..NO SANDPAPER

I rub on a THIN coat of TruOil .....let dry....and polish lightly with new 0000 steel wool.
Repeat 2 or 3 more times.....always lightly polishing with the 0000 wool after each coat......my results have always looked like an ..old finish....on a old rifle that was well cared for ?
My intention anyway.......hopefully I achieved it
 

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You’ve received some great tips above and those definitely sound like your best bet.

But just tho throw this out there, for just cleaning off accumulated grime, oxidation, and especially years of cigarette smoke off of a old gun stocks, I’ve had really good luck with wiping them down with Ballistol.

It is a mineral oil base which actually moisturizes the wood and it cleans off the gunk really well without stripping the finish. It’ll definitely make a difference.
 
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