The first thing I do when I suspect an accuracy issue is pull back the yardage. Try shooting at 50yrds or even 25 if necessary.GJinNY said:I'll do another this Thursday at the 100 yd range. Target picture too.
Again, I was on a bench with rests and scoped.
Indeed.GJinNY said:I got brave and took the front stock, barrel bands, and screws all off the front to look for snug spots.
the front stock band was pretty snug so I did file under the band. Nothing else seemed to bind anywhere.
Upon reassembly, the 2 band screws can make a big difference as to how bound the tube, front stock and barrel get.
Now the question.... How loose is too loose and how tight is too tight?
The rear barrel band (on the forearm) "screw" is really just a stud. It won't tighten the band by tightening the screw. The threads are actually under the head instead of at the end of the shank. They are there just to hold the screw in place. The shank keeps the mag tube from moving forward. These are very easy to snap the head off of when tightening down so just snug it up.GJinNY said:the bands without the screws are loose. It's the screws that snug things so much.
I can get another full turn once they begin to snug.
Should I stop when they begin and put a drop of LOKTITE in the threads?
What Erik said!Eli Chaps said:The rear barrel band (on the forearm) "screw" is really just a stud. It won't tighten the band by tightening the screw. The threads are actually under the head instead of at the end of the shank. They are there just to hold the screw in place. The shank keeps the mag tube from moving forward. These are very easy to snap the head off of when tightening down so just snug it up.
The front band screw doesn't need to be over-tightened either. Just snug enough that things aren't going anywhere. Some clear fingernail polish should keep them in place if you feel the need and is a little more forgiving than Loc-Tite on those small screws.