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Discussion Starter #1
It was suggested to me (either here or on rimfirecentral) that the Brownell's magazine tube kit #1 and tube kit #2 could be used to fabricate replacement inner magazine tubes for the model 60. This information is incorrect, or at least incomplete. The follower that comes with this kit does not work with the model 60. It is not long enough, meaning that it does not protrude far enough out of the end of the magazine tube. It causes the last round to jam on the lifter arm, because it doesn't push the round all the way onto the lifter arm. I don't blame whoever told me, but I don't want anyone else to make the same mistake needlessly. Based on the pictures on the Brownells website, I didn't think that it would work, but knowing that sometimes pictures do not accurately depict what's actually in a kit, and that I've seen this kit recommended several times for the model 60, I ordered it. To be clear: It does not work with the model 60, because the follower is too short. I assure you that it is not because I built the kit wrong. I built it correctly, and if/when I get the correct follower, I'm 100% confident that it will work correctly.

Brownells offers other followers that it sells for between $10 and $13 plus shipping, but none are listed as working with Marlins. I'm pretty sure one of them will work with marlin, but I have no idea which, or how to tell. My other option would be to buy a follower kit for $35 + shipping. Since I already paid $21 +shipping for this kit, I'm sure you can see why I'm hesitant to throw good money after bad.

Long story short: Don't buy either of these kits for your model 60 (or similar) guns. Wait until someone has the correct magazine tube in stock.
 

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What does the shorter one do in the gun? Just asking. Does it jam or just refuse to feed the last couple of rounds? I'd expect the last.

One other poster located an OEM follower for the 60 at Gun Parts/Numrich. Me, I'd try making one, myself. Too long would just cost magazine capacity, so I'd start long and trim back. Look around at the local hardware store for suitable stock. Most have some smaller aluminum and plastic rods in with the angle and channel stock. If you've got no lathe, you can file it down using the B&D "lathe", an electric drill with the part chucked in it and a file(with handle!). Made a lot of parts that way in my starving student days before a lathe showed up. You've already got partterns for what the back end looks like.

Stan S.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
The shorter one pushes the last cartridge onto the lifter arm, but not all the way onto it. So when the lifter lifts, it jams the cartridge in the feed throat, and is a real bear to get out.

That's a good idea about milling one out of aluminum or something in my drill. I don't have a lathe or a drill press, but I do have an electric drill. What kind of cutting tool would you suggest?

My thought was to drill and tap the center of the follower that I do have, and put a brass screw into it with a lock nut, but I kind of like your idea better.

EDIT: now I see you said to use a file.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I had two ideas for this. I have found some pot metal solid rod that I think should be good enough, but if I didn't have that here's my other idea: I was going to fill a McPoisonclown shake straw (you know, the giant ones) with JB weld, and mill it out of that once it cured.

What do you think?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Eric0424, those are beautiful! you make me want to go out and buy a lathe. Would you consider selling or trading that follower?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
an electric drill with the part chucked in it and a file(with handle!)
LOL I get it now. That file got hot.

Trying to mill this out of aluminum with a file is taking A LOT longer that I thought it would. Maybe JB weld is the way to go... :/
 

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LOL I get it now. That file got hot.

Trying to mill this out of aluminum with a file is taking A LOT longer that I thought it would. Maybe JB weld is the way to go... :/
Depends on how coarse a cut your file is. You can move a lot of metal with a ******* cut, then finish up with a finer cut file and wet-or-dry for polish.

As far as the handle, it keeps the tang from arrowing through your hand.

With aluminum, you need to chalk your file to keep the gullets from filling up and pinning the file. A file card used occasionally will keep things cutting, too.
If you've got any Berdan-primed fired brass, there IS a use for it, you can smoosh(technical term) the mouth and use that to help brush out the aluminum filings from the file teeth.

Let the motor cool periodically or the magic smoke comes out.


Stan S.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well these things run on smoke and magic. If you let the smoke out, it won't run on magic alone.

The problem that I'm having so far is that the aluminum keeps spalling and getting these giant pits in it. Will the chalk help with that? Also can I use my kids' sidewalk chalk or do I have to go buy special tool chalk?
 

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I've considered selling a few of the Model 60 items I've copied, I just can't seem to get enough time in front of the lathe to get them made so I don't have anything ready for sale yet. The machine I'm using is a manual lathe and it takes a while to get anything made. If I had access to a CNC machine I could turn these parts out faster.

The follower above is in my 60 at the moment and it's the only one I have right now. When I can get some made I'll post here and at Rimfire Central where they can be found and what they'll cost.
 
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