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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My first bolt action and a few questions,
Had It three weeks now and am planning to shoot it this week,
Did not know retirement could be so busy ~
1st ? Should I clean It before the first firing ? I will clean the barrel but should I break It down ? It seems to be well/over lubed a bit.
I'm assuming bolt actions shoot cleaner than semi auto's

I'm no expert, the Marksman score I got In the military was easy and meaningless to this old Squirrel hunter.
So My second question;
If I do my part on a single bag rest seated at a table what kind of groups should I expect without getting into what ammo a given rifle likes best?
Say at 25 and 50 yards with the open sites ?

Of course I will try a couple of 100 yard shots with Iron sites :p

I will scope the rifle but not until I get a few hundred rounds through It and learn the trigger...
Whats peoples take on Iron sight scope rings ? Always wondered If they raised the scope to far from the bullet trajectory.
I plan to operate from 25 to 75 yards mostly.
Also considering Ghost ring's always got along well with them.
They worked great on my M1 super 90
 

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Other than cleaning the barrel I would just wipe off any other excess oil.

At 25 yards with open sights I would hope for quarter sized groups. From 50, minute of squirrels head?

I'm not crazy about see through rings. I don't get a good cheek weld with them.
 

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By all means, clean the action and barrel before shooting it. My eyes have never let me shoot well without a scope, so I won't speculate on YOUR ability, eyesight, or accuracy potential. I can only relate my own experiences with a new .22 Magnum rifle, which I bought about a year ago.

Last November, I bought a Ruger American stainless steel .22 Magnum. I cleaned the bore and mounted a scope before heading to the range.

It did not shoot particularly well, at 50 yards or 100 yards, for that matter. While the cold weather didn't help, it shot well with only one load. I messed around with it all winter, trying "this and that" load, until the weather warmed up, and somewhere along the line, a switch was flipped, the gun started shooting well with several completely different loadings.

I do NOT use see-thru rings on any of a dozen plus rifles I own, in fact, most of them do not have iron sights at all. Mount your scope as low as you can, in order to get a good cheek weld. Buy a quality scope in the first place, and you'll never worry about being able to use the iron sights anyway..
The new rifle shoots any CCI 40gr. load quite well, and all to the same point of aim. I can't argue about that, it's working the way I want it to work.
All of my shooting is done with a Harris bipod and a bunny-eared bag at the rear. Nothing fancy, and certainly not as precise as benchrest gear, but I works for me, and the way I do things.

Best of luck in your endeavors.
 

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Osco, my xt22 m like cci 40 grn minni mags. If I can hold still I can shoot 5 in a nickle at 50 yds.
 
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My stainless XT 22M likes Remingtons in the green box (40 gr?) best. On a good day, can put 5 shots in 5/8" off bench at 50 yds with a 3x9 scope mounted. My rifle was made in Mayfield, KY but shoots slightly better than the several New Haven Marlins I have had.
 

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Federal has a 50 grn Mag load now. If your rifle can hit golf balls at 50 yrds it is good to go on squirrels.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I picked up a Simmons 4x32 .22 mag scope for $30 at walmart and have it on my Benjamin Nitro 2 pellet rifle for a torture test.
Am told and have read this scope can handle the violent double recoil of the gas ram.
After a 100 shots I will move it to my Beeman R10 springer with It's very sharp two direction recoil and do another 100 shots.

If this scope survives these two air rifles I'll try it on my .22wmr and If that works out I'll get the Simmons 8 point in 3x9 for my Marlin
For me this scope was really clear and bright.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I got five in a dime at 25 yards, a three hole group..

Now to find the right scope as the Simmons 4x32 will stay on the R10
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Got five in a nickel at 40 yards, still with open sites.
Sitting, no bags, just elbows on the table, so far so good.
Think I'll hold off on the scope until I can't stay Inside of a half dollar coin.
Just saying :p
 

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Generally it doesn't take hundreds of rounds for a good rifle to shoot well.

If you are shooting nickle size groups at 40 yards with iron sights - there's nothing wrong with your rifle.

Sounds like you have a good one.

My experience is that it's usually less than 20 rounds to knock down whatever small burrs are left over from reaming the chamber or to knock down a sharp edge on the rifling.

My general strategy was the shoot one/clean regimen until there isn't much fouling left after 1 shot... If it still fouls badly after 5 or 10 rounds like this - consider running 5 or 10 fire lapping rounds down the barrel.

If that doesn't help - there's a problem with the rifle and it goes back home to The Factory.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ran a box of 50 CCI's with 3 duds then Federal 40g and about 20 did not fire, most that fired were the first few dozen.
The dents all looked shallow even on the ones that ignited.
My dents were flat and another shooter there with a "Similar" bolt action 22wmr, his dents were sharp hatchet strike shaped.

Firing pin looks normal, rifle is only at about 200 rounds total,

Whutchaguys think?
 

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The first thing I would check is the firing pin protrusion at the bolt face.
I am assuming that your XT-22 WMR bolt and firing pin is similar to my 883, and has the flat blade style firing pin that runs in a slot at the 2 o'clock position on the bolt. It is easy to push the firing pin forward on the style of bolt to check the amount of protrusion.
If you remove the firing pin for any reason, make sure that the return spring doesn't get mangled when you put it back together. It is very easy to crush it when inserting the firing pin. It must be compressed slightly in order to get the firing pin back in. If you have the style of bolt that is in my 883, this can be difficult to do. The 883 bolt doesn't come apart unless you drill out the front retaining pin. Hopefully, you have the style of bolt that the front half comes apart by just twisting it to the release slot in the front half. These bolts are much easier to install the firing pin into them.
 

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I had light strikes on my 983 in 2005. Took out the firing pin and polished it well with oil and 1000 grit paper, reinstalled and not a misfire since.

Pete Davis
 
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