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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just drove ahunter 405 Grain .459 Diameter through my Brand New 1895GBL.
One half of the bullet has the Rifling Cut into the bullet with sharp clear cut corners.

The other half has the rifling cut in but not near as deep as the other side.
Should I do this again with a larger slug?
Is the bore measured at the max inside diameter or the smallest inside diameter?
I think it would be the smallest Inside Diameter

REM in KentuckyLOVING this GBL
 

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I just drove ahunter 405 Grain .459 Diameter through my Brand New 1895GBL.
One half of the bullet has the Rifling Cut into the bullet with sharp clear cut corners.

The other half has the rifling cut in but not near as deep as the other side.
Should I do this again with a larger slug?
Is the bore measured at the max inside diameter or the smallest inside diameter?
I think it would be the smallest Inside Diameter

REM in KentuckyLOVING this GBL
Hey Rem,

Welcome to MO.

You want to know the groove diameter. Which would be the "high" points on the "slug". Is your barrel clean? It may have been test fired, with jacketed ammo. May have copper fouling, which would need to be removed, prior to slugging. Would try a .460" slug.

Hope this helps, Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK

I like the idea of doing it again.
Hard part is finding a .260 slug.
As far as Copper Fouling I have may shot 10 jacket bullets loaded to not near Max.
This gun has not had any factory loads shot in it yet. If i keep liking this lead I probably will not shoot copper.
RexQUOTE=msharley;959543]Hey Rem,

Welcome to MO.

You want to know the groove diameter. Which would be the "high" points on the "slug". Is your barrel clean? It may have been test fired, with jacketed ammo. May have copper fouling, which would need to be removed, prior to slugging. Would try a .460" slug.

Hope this helps, Mark[/QUOTE]
 

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Make sure all the copper fouling has been cleaned out. Don't use a bullet to slug the bore, try a fishing weight made from dead soft lead, preferably one with a hole drilled in the center to allow for movement of lead as you push it in. Lube the slug with some form of grease, I've used reloading lube with great results. Use a couple of dowels near bore diameter cut to about 6" in length to drive the slug through. As one dowel nears full depth, add another and keep driving. Start from the muzzle end. It would be best to use a plastic face mallet in case you miss and hit the crown. Tap firmly, you don't need to whack it. Continue until the slug drops into the chamber. I do this with action open, bolt removed and a clean rag stuffed into the chamber area to catch the slug.

There's a great video I saw on YouTube once where the guy used a very similar procedure. Key here is to have a clean barrel, a lubed lead piece and take your time to do it right.
 

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You can take a .459 dia. and put it in a vise and very slowly turn the handle and increase the dia.,I do that all the time,sometimes I will set the bullet on top of the hammer part of the vise and give it a straight down wrap and that will expand it too,even if it is out of round the main thing is to try and get it to around .462,that way everything is sized accordingly to the bore.But do it with a softer lead as the harder it is the harder it drives and remember to wrap your rod with tape in circles a about 4-5 different places and right in bake of where the rod makes contact with the slug as you do not want to scuff your barrel. Pete
 

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Sounds like you have either lead or copper fouling. Try cleaning with SWEETS 7.62
 

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What I did was put a lead sinker in a spent 45/70 case and melted it with a torch. Next time i would put a finish nail throught the primer hole to make a hole in the middle. But anyway when it melts it takes the contour of the bottom of the case and gives it a little bevelled edge which makes it easier to put into the barrel. Now if I was just smart enough to remember to lube it then it would have been easier to push the whole length of the barrel.
 

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What I did was put a lead sinker in a spent 45/70 case and melted it with a torch. Next time i would put a finish nail throught the primer hole to make a hole in the middle. But anyway when it melts it takes the contour of the bottom of the case and gives it a little bevelled edge which makes it easier to put into the barrel. Now if I was just smart enough to remember to lube it then it would have been easier to push the whole length of the barrel.
I tried this in a series of attempts to come up with a way to slug but the bottom of a case has thicker walls and mine came out too small. I ended up filling a fired brass with lead and though it took quite a few sinkers and the bottom was small, the top was nice and big and gave me a nice result.
 

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I did it with a fired brass too. Had a tought time getting it out and ended up messing the case up but no big deal it only one case.
 

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If you want to take the time and slug your bore, might as well do it right.
Supplies for bore, throat and leade slugging can be found here; along with the instruction’s.

http://www.lbtmoulds.com/moulds.shtml

Trying to drive a fishing sinker thru the bore is cheaper, but then, what are you really looking for?… The largest diameter that a cast bullet will see on its way out, is that area in the leade, and this is the measurement you need to properly size your bullet…
If there are constrictions in the barrel, a slug will detect those too, but only by carefully “pushing” the slug thru, and feeling for them… IMO – driving a slug down the pipe accomplishes nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Old Case a good Idea

I have some cases i made for the Leverolution bulet shot at 1850 so i will make a slug with one of these.
REM in Kentucky
I did it with a fired brass too. Had a tought time getting it out and ended up messing the case up but no big deal it only one case.
 
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