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Discussion Starter #1
I have been throwing around the idea of installing an aluminium pillar (of sorts) into my butt stock that will house the tang bolt. I would also bed around the tang at the same time. Can any one see any problems with this idea? Has anyone done this already?

Cheers,

Matt
 

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I would fit the buttstock as close as possible to the metal, then bed that first. Putting in a pillar is okay, have it knurled first and drill the hole oversized, pillar to be glued in permanent will actually strengthen the area that splits the most often, though bedding the stock to the metal relieves a lot of the stress causing it.

Good news is this will stabilize your stock to metal fit and eliminate a lot of side to side shot strings.

CASS and SASS shooters do this type of bedding, and should do so.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok thanks,

The idea seems sound in theory, and easy enough to do.

Thanks for the advice,

Matt
 

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I've done it. It works very well. Regan Nonneman put one in my 307W and I liked it So much, I did it to every Marlin I've owned since then.

I drill a pretty big hole and wrap a small mount of tape around the tang screw to provide clearance, Regan gave me several pillars however you should have no problem making or purchasing one from Brownells. Make sure that the hole diameter will work and that the OD will not encroach outside the tang recess.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cool, I have the glue drying as i type :) Throwing a bit of RTV around as well to try and tame the mag tube as per Mc Phersons instructions... I made up a pillar from a piece of aluminium lying around at work, lathed up the sides and looks the part.
 

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Earplay I am anxious to hear how this works out for you. I would like to know it helps on accuracy any at all. I have been thinking about doing the same thing.
 

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Yes please do, I hope you have a before group to post also.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Will do,

I am bedding the mag tube in RTV also as well as bedding all the stock metal interfaces with epoxy. My groups have been pretty good with handloads but have just had a couple of flyers I can't account for so hoping this helps.

Cheers,

Matt
 

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Does your rifle have a forend band or end cap?

If you are also running the bead of RTV between the mag tube and barrel, put something on the barrel to keep the RTV from sticking. I forgot to do that and when I went to remove the mag tube later, had to cut the RTV away from the barrel. Doh! :-[

When bedding the end of the mag tube into the receiver, check the notches after adding the RTV. After beveling the end of the tube, it will sit a little deeper and you need to have enough RTV to make sure the screw notch in the tube lines up correctly with the barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have the barrel band, applied a pva release agent to barrel. My mag tube already appeared suitably beveled so I didn't touch it. So far I have just bedded the mag tube into the forestock and created a channel either side of the barrel (free float) which also contains RTV. I have yet to silicone barrel to mag tube, a little unsure on the logistics, may just install a silicone pad at either end that can be removed.

I installed an alumnium pillar into buttstock, and have bedded tang and buttstock reciever junction with epoxy. My one stuff up was drilling the the pillar hole where I ended up gouging out a bit of stock material at the rear of the lower part of the tang(?). I am hoping to pull it apart tonight to inspect bedding, assuming it will actually come apart ;).

One useful hint.. allow RTV at least 2 days to set...I had to re-bed mag tube after pulling it apart prematurely.
 

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Mcpherson's tricks work very well. I bed all my forends with RTV at the barrel and epoxy at the receiver and forend cap/barrel band. Accuracy always improves and forend disassembly becomes much easier.
 

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I've heard plenty about bedding 336 rifles around the tang and barrel bands with RTV but have never seen any pictures. Admittadly I confess to being not the sharpest knife in the block, but I find it hard to visualise where all the silicon goo goes. When the project is finished it would be great if you could post some pictures. Thanks. This is a great Forum even for us Aussies.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Even us Aussies? I hope you aren't claiming us Kiwis as part of your lot ;) You don't want silicone around the tang, that's where a bedding compound comes into play. The goal is for making the wood/metal ie stock/tang, stock/receiver junctions as snug and rigid as possible. The RTV is for bedding the mag tube into the fore stock, or mag tube/barrel, barrel/forestock. In theory it dampens vibrations and causes the mag tube, barrel and fore stock to work in unison.

As a side note... from the library of stuffups, when I pulled my silicone bedding apart something in the silicone/moisture combo has rusted the mag tube and under side of my barrel quite nicely. Hmmm glad I'm looking at going to milspec coating at some point.

Question for Swany... I have 'free floated' my barrel in the fore stock as much as possible, obviously it makes contact at the barrel band and at reciever. If I am looking to bed the barrel into the stock, am I better to use a rigid compound or run with the RTV? I could just leave it free floating but am worried about junk getting down the sides of the barrel when hunting.

Cheers,

Matt
 

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I would try the RTV first. Lot easier to deal with if you want to pull it out.

I am still contemplating a makeover to include free floating on a recent 30-30 RC I picked up. Should I decide to go forward with it, I will do a pictorial.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok this is part way through my project, stock is in need of cleanup so excuse the mess. Note aluminum pillar in buttstock and bedding. Also addition of silicone (black) either side of fore stock prior to refitting to barrel.

Something to learn from my rather stupid mistake... DO NOT use acetic cure rtv silicone unless you want to create rust not seen since the titianic in about 24 hours. Make sure it is neutral/no acid cure.

Target is a 7 shot group at 100m prior to the bedding work. Note the couple of flyers that took it to about 3.5inches... hoping some of this work will help.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well to update progress on this little project... Bedded barrel with a black windscreen sealant silicone. Also painted stock to tidy up the bedding work. Mag tube is now tightly bedded into forestock and requires greasing to slide in and out. Hope the new trigger will be here this week so can put it back together and go shoot some holes...

The problem with having you marlin in pieces for any length of time is you are tempted to keep fiddling.... had an experiment with some painting on the stock. Figure I can always repaint if I don't like it
 

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What is that pattern? Looks like snake skin pattern. You going to name the rifle Sneaky Snake. ;D

Looks good. I appreciate the pictures of the work you have done. Very good work.

Where did you order the trigger from?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sneaky snake is actually more like some cheap weed matting and some green paint :) I have ordered trigger through another very helpful MO member so as far as I know its somewhere between US and NZ. I could have bought it from Brownells but they wanted to charge $50US shipping...
 

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earplay said:
... something in the silicone/moisture combo has rusted the mag tube and under side of my barrel quite nicely...
Most silicon/RTV has an acid componant to it. Look for electronics grade RTV, it's usually acid free.
 
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