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I'm shooting lead boolits out of a dozen plus guns, to include 4 Marlins, which includes 3 1894s (two .357s and one .45 Colt), with no leading issues.

If you are having issues, the key is to slug your barrel bore to determine the exact diameter, then load boolits a couple to a few thousandths of an inch larger. And don't push them at .338 Weatherby velocities.

Jon
 

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Planeflyer is correct about slugging the bore, I had a difficult time with off the shelf lead bullets(too small) but casting my own gives me much better flexibilty.
For my 44's I'm using bullets sized at .4315/.432 and my 38/357's take .360 sized slugs. I haven't slugged or worked on any loads for my 41's or 45's but will when the weather straightens up.
No leading at all and I've run some warm loads.
 

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Some odd things about cast lead.If you fire a hard lead bullet too slow it will lead up the bore,along with firing a soft lead bullet too fast.Also have to watch what your lubing with and match it with the velocity and propellent.Can be frustrating at times and very rewarding when it all comes together.
 

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Levergunz said:
Some odd things about cast lead.If you fire a hard lead bullet too slow it will lead up the bore,along with firing a soft lead bullet too fast.Also have to watch what your lubing with and match it with the velocity and propellent.Can be frustrating at times and very rewarding when it all comes together.
Rewarding and frustrating for sure.
I have had pretty good luck using either straight wheelweights or water quenched 50/50 WW/PB and generous amounts of 2400. Accuracy usually comes together toward the top of the load data. I've heard others having good luck with H110/296.
 

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patepluma said:
I'd like some opinions on the barrel leading issue. Shooting lead out of a 20" 1894. Thanks.
Are you reloading those lead bullets or is someone else's reloads or factory?

Gas check bullets or plain base?

Where is the leading? If it is from the throat forward then it is probably bullet fit and the gas is cutting around the bullet or the bullet is too hard and going too slow to obtuate and fit the bore. If the leading is towards the muzzle then you are probably running out of lube as the bullet travels down the bore.
 

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Back when I had an FFL/shop, I bartered some truck work in exchange for one gun each to my mechanics.

One guy chose to get a Ruger Super Blackhawk with the 9 1/2" barrel. A few weeks later the other guy told me the dude didn't want it anymore. So I bought it back.

Inspecting it, the barrel looked like a smooth bore it was leaded so bad. After asking what rounds they'd been shooting, they said "Some stuff this other guy didn't want."

Jon
 

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There is a formula that says Brinnel hardness times 1422(?) is the pressure your gun SHOULD not lead at and willobturate the bullet. I had gotten some HARD ingots that were supposed to be wheel weights mixed in and ended up with Brinnel 15 for mid range 44s and got some minor leading in my VAQUEROS. When I went back to the 10-to-12 range, it cleaned up measurably. For rifle specific and higher end, use the harder alloys. RANCH DOG has designed some superb boolits for MARLIN rifles.

Conventional wisdom on MARLINS with micro groove is oversize boolit, gas check, higher end velocity, harder alloy, lots of bearing surface to engage rifling. It worked for my micro groove guns and I continued that method when I switched to ballard rifled Cowboy rifles. All of my 44 rifles and revolvers were more accurate and less leading with .431 or .432 cast boolits.
 

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What are your load specs? I shoot a .358" on top of 13.5 gr AA#9 out of my 1894c with no leading at all. Although bullet hardness plays a part, fit is much more critical.
GH1 :)
 

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make sure the bullets are 0.001" or so bigger than the grooves and that the BHN correlates with the pressure and all should be fine.
 
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