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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are all 336’s like this?

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Has an extra notch for the hammer spring plate. Do all the oldies have that? This has g prefix on serial number so I think it’s from the early 50’s.
 

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My .32 in 336A is an F or 1949 it has that same notch set. Yours a G in from 1950.

You will also note you have single piece trigger. No trigger block safety. Only a half cock hammer for safety. Undrilled and tapped for a scope. Or if it is okay, its a Marlin. You will find you have a narrow hammer, and it is at a 45 degree angle on half cock. This makes it a pain to mount a scope and find a hammer spur that will work well.

Okay for a side mount peep or holo sight using a side mount adaptor for top mounting.

The back notch reduces main spring pre load. That make the action cycle easier. Hammer manually cocked is easier. It also lightens the trigger pull slightly.

Use the back notch for target and informal shooting. Front notch for game hunting. I have cut a second notch in a newer 336 it worked. But I don't recommend it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This was my grandfathers rifle. It was given to me after he died in 2000 or 2001. It’s been bubba’d some but it has sentimental value. I shot my first deer with her. I don’t think my grandfather did the work himself, but it’s been drilled and tapped on the side of the receiver for a pachmayr scope mount that flips out of the way on a hinge. And the hammer spur has been ground down to give clearance for the scope. When I was a teenager, the stock broke at the tang. Had a gunsmith fit a new one and I used boiled linseed oil to try and match the forearm. It’s pretty close. So she’s not purty but I’ll never sell her.
 
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Neither of my early 50's 336's have a second notch. One is a 1953 in 35 Rem and the other is 1950 in 35 Rem. This has me wondering if the second notch was only on specific calibers such as the 30-30 or 32.
 

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Neither of my early 50's 336's have a second notch. One is a 1953 in 35 Rem and the other is 1950 in 35 Rem. This has me wondering if the second notch was only on specific calibers such as the 30-30 or 32.
Mainiac,

I don't know when it was eliminated, but I doubt it was caliber specific, because all models used/use the same P/N Trigger Guard Plate, depending on style ............

It was probably dropped as a cost savings, but that would only amount to savings on the 2nd cutter, 'cuz the cut (s) were done as one pass operation on an old Nichols Horizontal Milling machine in a gang mill setup..............

Once completed, the TGP's all went into the same rack for assembly.

Tom
 

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My .32 in 336A is an F or 1949 it has that same notch set. Yours a G in from 1950.

You will also note you have single piece trigger. No trigger block safety. Only a half cock hammer for safety. Undrilled and tapped for a scope. Or if it is okay, its a Marlin. You will find you have a narrow hammer, and it is at a 45 degree angle on half cock. This makes it a pain to mount a scope and find a hammer spur that will work well.

Okay for a side mount peep or holo sight using a side mount adaptor for top mounting.

The back notch reduces main spring pre load. That make the action cycle easier. Hammer manually cocked is easier. It also lightens the trigger pull slightly.

Use the back notch for target and informal shooting. Front notch for game hunting. I have cut a second notch in a newer 336 it worked. But I don't recommend it.
FWIW and in my one time experience, the older marlin's trigger pressure is darn close to an new,aftermarket WWG Trigger Happy Kit's trigger pull.

My friends old OE Marlin 30-30 trigger pull(one with the 2 grooves and everything else you mentioned) is darn close to my 2002 1895 CB JM marlin 45-70 gov't's trigger pull using a WWG Trigger Happy kit.

I was a bit surprised...and miffed........
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

Don’t mind the indoor pic. I live in town. I don’t think taking pics outside would be smart.
Mans after I loaded it, it got flipped.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
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On a side note, somewhere along the way they changed the firing pin design. On top is from the old 336. Bottom is from 1895 sbl. They took away some metal. I don’t know if it affects strength or not.
 

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On a side note, somewhere along the way they changed the firing pin design. On top is from the old 336. Bottom is from 1895 sbl. They took away some metal. I don’t know if it affects strength or not.
A lighter pin should give you a faster lock time.JMHO,OB
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
A lighter pin should give you a faster lock time.JMHO,OB
Well soemtime in the last year I bought a one piece firing pin for my 1895. Because I wanted to run a lighter spring. To lighten everything up a bit. Well I got failures to fire so I did some tinkering. The one piece firing pin is more robust than the 2 piece. In fact, it weighs 48% more than the 2 piece. So it appears the lighter hammer spring can’t get the hammer moving fast enough to move this behemoth of a firing pin.
 

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Hmmm...
I always thought the change to a single notch was around the CBS introduction.
I've had a '69 and a '79 with two notches (square notches).


I do seem to end up with all the freaks, though.


The '69 known to have two notches is gone, but next time I remove the stocks from the current '69 and the '70, I'll try to remember to take note of what's in there. (The '69 simply isn't happening, just to see what the trigger plate looks like; and the '70 is currently in the hands of a 'smith for some barrel work.)
And, next time I pull the stock on the '79, I'll try to remember to determine whether it looks factory or Bubba'd.
 
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