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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've refinished a few of these linseed oil finishes in the past but I'm always looking for a better way. I've tried holding by hand, I've cut a piece of wood to fit in tang groove to create a handle and now this. Is there any need to protect metal bluing from the linseed oil or will it just wipe off. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
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WHY did you remove the Butt Pad ?............................You DON'T need to!.......Now you'll never get it back on in same position.............. BLO will only enhance the Butt Pad...........

ALL Marlin wood is finished with the Butt Pads and / or Recoil Pads in place.............

WHY did you NOT remove the wood from the metal ?...................

Seems like you're going about this whole project ALL wrong........Sorta' like painting a car without removing the trim..........!

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
C'mon guy's, you know this is not my first rodeo. I've refinished a few of these in my few years buying, selling, trading. I was just looking for a more comfortable way of laying on the linseed oil. I can only get a good feel for it with my right hand and holding it with my left. I think the used receiver might be the answer but then again I'm not looking to refinish many more of these. I like the varnish finish much better with that low sheen appearance. As far as the butt pad goes my preference is to remove it and usually replace the white spacer with new if need be. I spray a light coat of Krylon clear on the butt pad and it goes back on exactly where it came off.
 

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Hey Desparodo, I'm thinking about doing this to one of my stocks
. Have you ever done the "Sand Dust" method before? If so, how did it work for you? I too will have to replace the white spacer because of shrinkage. I will do all the sanding and oiling with the butt plate off. By the way, yours is looking good!
 

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I wonder what size brush is best for cutting in the Boiled Linseed around the Receiver tangs...............:hmmmm2:

Tom
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I wonder what size brush is best for cutting in the Boiled Linseed around the Receiver tangs...............:hmmmm2:

Tom
Brush, what brush ? I apply the linseed oil with my hand and fingers. I rub till it gets warm and then let it dry. Maybe I need to look into a different method that might be easier on my shoulder.
 

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Piece of angle iron a few washers and your butt plate screws should do it.

Made long enough that piece of angle iron can be clamped for an upright or side position in your vise.


Drill an extra hole in the butt stock and install a lag bolt for clamping in a vise.

Now make it shine.
 

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Depending upon the project and particular finish, I....

-Hold it in my hands.
-Hang from a wire.
-Use a butt plate screw hole to attach a small piece of bent sheet steel (suitable for hanging and/or clamping).


Edit: I do have a kaboomed receiver that was obtained specifically for certain kinds of stock work, but I don't use it for wood finishing.

 

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I just hold them by hand and I am doing fullstock muzzle loaders.
I final sand them by laying them on a board clamped in a vise on my work bench. This is just to support and care needs to be used not to mar the surfaces.
I blast them off with an air gun to get all the dust off. I steam the sanded stock over a pot of rapid boiling water to raise the whiskers, then sand again until the whiskers are gone. This usually takes just a couple of times. I apply whatever stain I want at this point. and sand smooth again.
On walnut I use Birtchwood Casey walnut stain then sand back to bare wood. This leaves the stain in the pores. On a refinish I would probably skip this step depending on the grain. I apply grain filler to fill the pores and once more and sand back to bare wood when it is hard. This closes up the pores and adds seal to the stock. I apply the finish over the stock with my fingers. Rub vigorously and wipe down with a lint free rag to remove excess. Steel wool back to remove any defects tack it off and repeat.
Stocks get hund where they will not get bumped to dry 24 hours or so. If the final coat is too shiny for me I just lightly rub with steel or brass wool.
On a future project I plan to do some test pieces using some reddish-Brown stain to see if I like it.
 
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DO NOT TO FORGET TO APPLY FINISH TO ALL SURFACES.
I even use a bore mop to get finish inside my ram rod holes.
 
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I use an eye bolt threaded into one of the butt pad holes to hang the stock from a wire to dry. I do all my sanding with the butt pad on to get the mated surfaces to match. I use a piece of 1/2” copper pipe with the ends flattened and a hole drilled in one end to hang the forearm. Slide the pipe through the forearm and turn 90 degrees. I’ve never used BLO, I always used Truoil.
 

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i sand with the butt pad on, then remove it and install a small screw eye so i can hang the buttstock to dry. Usually use a a shaped wooden dowel inside the forend, leave a "handle" sticking out one end. After sanding and whiskering i mix tru-oil 50/50 with paint thinner, apply liberally to a section of stock, then sand the wet area with 400 grit wet and dry sandpaper till you have a little slurry of finish and sawdust going then while its still wet wipe it off across the grain. This forces some slutty into the pores. Let it dry, sand lightly with 400 grit, then apply another coat just like above. I might do ten coats like this. The final coat goes straight tru-oil
 

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.

I don't use Linseed oil anymore, not Tongue oil, and not any other of those outdated products. Why not move up to modern products that are tough and super easy to repair when scratched or damaged. Some cleaning products will damage Linseed finishes, not so with the more modern finishes. I suppose old habits are hard to break.

Here is a stock refinished with more modern (and better ) products.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
.

I don't use Linseed oil anymore, not Tongue oil, and not any other of those outdated products. Why not move up to modern products that are tough and super easy to repair when scratched or damaged. Some cleaning products will damage Linseed finishes, not so with the more modern finishes. I suppose old habits are hard to break.
Here is a stock refinished with more modern (and better ) products.

I totally agree with the more modern finishes. I love to sand them down, see that beautiful walnut and spray it with MinWax polyurethane. It's a lot less work and a prettier finish and easier to repair. The only reason I got into refinishing this one was because the forearm was in great condition and the stock had issues.
 
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