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Nice acquisition.

First remove the wood then use a product like citrus strip to remove the old finish. You are on track to use a wet cloth and iron to steam the scratches and dents before sanding.

As for finish, if you use Tru Oil for a gloss finish, start with a sealing oil like Dem-Bart (Brownells has it). With the first coat, use more liberal amounts and sand with 320 to form a slurry to fill the pores. Wipe off excess across the grain and let stand not dry. Repeat until the wood stops absorbing the oil and all pores are filled using less oil with each additional coats in progression with 400 and 600 grit paper. Let dry/cure for a couple of days before you apply the Tru Oil. Your gloss Tru Oil finish will be much improved with the penetrating/sealing oil applied first.

For the checkering, you may want to not use Tru-Oil. The Dem-Bart oil is for checkering. Use a soft toothbrush to apply in the checkering and always wipe excess out.
 

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A JM 336 is always a good Marlin to have if you pay the right amount for it. .35 Rem? I’ll get blasted by a lot for saying this, but frankly, I’ll stick with my .30-30s for shooters. If you’re collecting or after resale the .35 is a more rare caliber, and as far as value, usually worth more than the identical.30-30 chambered model.

Congrats and welcome to the forum.
 

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This is my first rifle/marlin looking for some advice whether I did good or not. It’s a 35 Remington. Looking up the serial number it was made in 1997. JM stamped barrel. How to removes scratches and refinish? From research I looked into using an iron and tru oil.
View attachment 862269
If you don't enjoy tracking your game the 35 rem is the one you want. It is a game killing machine.Good job on your first Marlin.
 

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That set of stocks is a perfect candidate for a careful strip, a coat of red oak stain, about 6 coats of thinned boiled linseed oil with Japan Dryer, and several on going maintenance coats of Axe Wax if you want a no shine finish, or several coats of Renaissance Wax if you want a little glow to it. That method as well as leaving some of the grain unfilled gives it the age appropriate look and feel instead of making it look like plastic with other types of finish.
 

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A JM 336 is always a good Marlin to have if you pay the right amount for it. .35 Rem? I’ll get blasted by a lot for saying this, but frankly, I’ll stick with my .30-30s for shooters. If you’re collecting or after resale the .35 is a more rare caliber, and as far as value, usually worth more than the identical.30-30 chambered model.

Congrats and welcome to the forum.
Lol, I'll not blast ya, but for hunting I do prefer the 35's to the 30-30's.
Since I picked up the first one, the ole 30-30's haven't been to the woods again.😎
I still enjoy shooting them though.😉

RP
 

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Welcome from the marshes of south Louisiana.
Nice first marlin! A .35 Remington is always a good choice.
A 30/30 to .35 remington will kill!

ca'jun56
 

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If you don't enjoy tracking your game the 35 rem is the one you want.
Lol, I'll not blast ya, but for hunting I do prefer the 35's to the 30-30's.

I knew these were coming;)

Some light reading for y’all which proves I’m not alone:



Don’t get me wrong, I’d love to have a .35 in the collection too, but I don’t reload anymore, and I have literally NEVER seen a box of .35 ammo on the shelf at any gun store in my area. I know it’s a harder hitting round, but so is my 7-08 or .270 or...
 

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I knew these were coming;)

Some light reading for y’all which proves I’m not alone:



Don’t get me wrong, I’d love to have a .35 in the collection too, but I don’t reload anymore, and I have literally NEVER seen a box of .35 ammo on the shelf at any gun store in my area. I know it’s a harder hitting round, but so is my 7-08 or .270 or...
That was a good read, but he didn't mention the Hornady's gummy tips that everyone thinks so highly of.
Not me by the way.
I don't own either of your other favorites, I do have an old _06 😜and a Marlin 308MX 😉if I need a little extra reach.

RP
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
A JM 336 is always a good Marlin to have if you pay the right amount for it. .35 Rem? I’ll get blasted by a lot for saying this, but frankly, I’ll stick with my .30-30s for shooters. If you’re collecting or after resale the .35 is a more rare caliber, and as far as value, usually worth more than the identical.30-30 chambered model.

Congrats and welcome to the forum.
That set of stocks is a perfect candidate for a careful strip, a coat of red oak stain, about 6 coats of thinned boiled linseed oil with Japan Dryer, and several on going maintenance coats of Axe Wax if you want a no shine finish, or several coats of Renaissance Wax if you want a little glow to it. That method as well as leaving some of the grain unfilled gives it the age appropriate look and feel instead of making it look like plastic with other types of finish.
I like this idea as well as well as doing it after winter when hunting season is over. I plan on keeping
That set of stocks is a perfect candidate for a careful strip, a coat of red oak stain, about 6 coats of thinned boiled linseed oil with Japan Dryer, and several on going maintenance coats of Axe Wax if you want a no shine finish, or several coats of Renaissance Wax if you want a little glow to it. That method as well as leaving some of the grain unfilled gives it the age appropriate look and feel instead of making it look like plastic with other types of finish.
I think I plan on doing this. As someone else said I plan on waiting till after deer season to do it. That way I’ll have time to research and practice. This is gonna be my one and done hunting rifle for life. I’m just concerned about locating ammo. Sourcing online has been more difficult than in person so far. Probably gonna have to look into reloading.
 
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