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Okay, what have you done to enhance the accuracy of your marlins? What have you done to your gun and what did you gain? Plastic spacers between the barrel and mag tube, trigger job, spring work, lee factory crimp die, fire lapping, etc. whatever. I'd like to hear what people have done to their guns to get the most out of them. Thanks, Rick
 

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1. Wild West trigger. --so I don't pull them occasionally.

2. Firelapping is a must for accurate cast loads. Decreased my groups by at .east 25%. Best case was 50%.

3. Annealing brass.

4. Water dropping cast bullets for hardness.

5. Trying at least 5 powders out for most accurate load for a certain bullet.

6. Finding out generalities on this forum for what works.

7. Octagon barrels without bands are more accurate.

8. Second use of brass is most accurate shooting--good for competition.

9. Shoot alot (every weekend if possible)

10. Lee crimp a must for levers.
 

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I really have not done much at all to any of mine. I check the screws to make sure they are not over tight or too loose. None have trigger jobs they are all factory. I do like the Williams receiver sights and prefer the Williams Front Fire Sight. Mostly for me I take my time working up loads usually trying several different powders, going for the most accurate load I can get, not the hottest.
 

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brass prep, powders

First, uniform your brass. Use a falsh hole uniformer to clean up the flash hole channel. Most brass (rem win) punch out the primer flash hole. this leaves a burr on the inside of the cartridge. Each piece of brass is a little different, resulting in varying primer/powder ignition signatures. I would say this contributes to a 25%+ improvement of group size-and the groups are more uniform ("rounder").

Secondly, try a few powders. My brother and I both have 30 year old Marling 336A's in 30-30. I found that 32/W748 + 170 Speer flat point will shot darn close to 1 MOA at 100 yards. My brother was shooting IMR 3031, and getting 4-5 inch groups at 100 yards. We loaded up 32/W748 + 170 Speers for his Marlin, and it brought the group down to ~ 1.5 inches at 100 yards. It was eye opening to say the least.
 

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After fine tuning my 336 (iron sights) to get nice tight groups at 150yds. I ran all over the state to pull together a few more boxes or Rem 30/30's only to have'em fly all over the place the very next time at the range,

I started handloading!
And I never went back to factory loads.
 

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Complete, action and trigger job. Next was careful load developement, starting with uniform brass, flash holes, trim to minimum length. Set the sizer die for minimum sizing needed for the cal. Set the seater die, for the proper OAL. I use a 40X scope for load developement if the rifle has screw holes for the mounts. Once the loads are developed mount a receiver sight or low power scope with intermediate eye relief. I'm getting ready to try free floating a bbl, on a 336RC that has bbl bands want to convert it to not have and 16 1/4 bbl.
 

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I think it's more a case of finding the right load, to match the barrel harmonics. It's strictly a hit-or-miss process, but so far I've been lucky, and have found great loads for each of my Marlins. All except the new kid, an 1894C, and I'm still working on it. Today it did well with Remington bullets and Power Pistol, now I just have to isolate the charge it likes the best. Patience and perseverance are required!

Papajohn the Pudgy Paper Perforator
 

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I think trying a few loads is important but the most important thing is a good trigger and the fundamentals of marksmanship.
 
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