[toggy]

I just recently found a small spot of rust in between the barrel and the magazine on my 336 C:

(the arrow shows where the rust is.)

I "flossed" a couple oiled patches through there and you can see I got some rust out. What's a good way to keep this from getting worse? For now I am keeping it oiled. It's still nice and dry in Minnesota.

 

[Brian in FL]

Using a good gun oil on the metal should keep the rust at bay especially in a dry climate.

 

[toggy]

Well, I can keep rem oil on it, but it gets very humid here in Minnesota...

 

[fhmusa]

Rub with 0000 steel wool and oil, degrease thoroughly and apply some bluing. I have used a "blue pen" for small touch ups and it seems to stand up well. You may have to use a liquid bluing because it looks like the problem area may be tough to reach with a blue pen. I am sure you will get alot other good advice here. Good luck.

 

[Tom in Arizona]

Kroil penetrating oil on those flossing patches will get under the rust and loosen it. Follow up with a good oil or grease. If you have got rust there you may want to take off your handguard and check that area also.

 

[toggy]

Ok, will do. I just don't want to make anything worse. I am hoping something just got caught in there and caused the rust. The gun is in great shape otherwise.

 

[oscarflytyer]

Just bought a used 336 and completely disassembled it. Had some places (like where yours is) with very light surface rust and crud that would have enventually caused rust. Used bore cleaner (Ed's Red) to get the crud and 0000 steel wool/oil on a couple of spots. Do this and reblue as required with a pen or liquid. For small areas, this should work fine. I have found the lighter the oil used with the steel wool, the better...

 

[toggy]

What do y'all recommend for bluing? Can I just get some at Menards/Wal Mart or is there a special type for guns?

 

[Tom in Arizona]

Birchwood Casey Super Blue, I think I bought my last bottle at Walmart or Sportsman's Warehouse.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=284241

 

[toggy]

Thanks a lot guys. I'll start work on it tonight.

 

[six_gunz]

I will recommend Oxph-Blue for cold bluing......it's the best on the market IMO! The Birchwood Casey cold blue and pens just can't compare to Oxpho-Blue. I've used them and after trying Oxpho-Blue I'll never use anything else again. You can find it at Cabela's too.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1072/Product/OXPHO_BLUE_reg_

 

[Centaur 1]

Something else that works good on rust is bronze wool, if you can find it. It's easier on the guns bluing than steel wool, and if you use it to apply touch up bluing it won't get hot and turn black from the chemical reaction. I found it locally at Ace hardware, ours has a good sized boating section since we're so close to the ocean.

 

[horseshoe]

My buddy who owns a gunshop swears by a product that looks like something your wife would scrub out pots and pans with. It is magnesium and kinda wirey looking. You rub it on the rust and it takes it off very quickly. It will take off blue if you rub it super hard.

 

[ceadersavage]

put a oil patch with transmission fulid on it the hole gun takes rust off and clean good never seen a transmission with rust in it have you and never seen it freeze.I been useing this stuff for 40 years only oil along with krol oil for inside the barrel then trans. after a good scrubing

 

[toggy]

I decided to hold off on attempting any scrubbing or bluing. The spot we're talking about is between the barrel and the magazine tube. I have hit it with a Birchwood-Casey rust-proofing oil and flossed some more patched through there. At the muzzle I can't even get a patch in between there. I just hit it with oil and slid a patch along the seam to remove the excess.

I've kept it from getting worse for now. Actually bluing it would require removing the barrel or the magazine tube.

 

[six_gunz]

Toggy,
No need to remove the barrel, but it sounds like your rifle needs to be disassembled and cleaned up. If you're unfarmiliar with this go to the Reference Library......there a step by step instruction with pics. If it were my rifle I wouldn't put it off for too long.

 

[toggy]

Sounds like fun.

Seems there's a few how to's in the reference. Is this a good one?

http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/index.php/topic,26786.0.html

 

[Plumber]

Sounds like fun.

Seems there's a few how to's in the reference. Is this a good one?

http://www.marlinowners.com/forums/index.php/topic,26786.0.html

Yes, this one is very good. As are all I've seen here. But I've only been here for seven months, so I'm still looking.
Terry

 

[toggy]

I used that guide and disassembled last night. It was very cool to see in better detail how it works. The action was pretty clean but there's a couple spots on the barrel where moisture got in.

First: The spot previously mentioned, both the magazine and barrel got rust where moisture got trapped in between.

Second: the barrel and the piece that holds the forearm on.

I am not comfortable taking to this thing with an abrasive. Should I call in a professional?

 

[Tom in Arizona]

I used that guide and disassembled last night. It was very cool to see in better detail how it works. The action was pretty clean but there's a couple spots on the barrel where moisture got in.

First: The spot previously mentioned, both the magazine and barrel got rust where moisture got trapped in between.

Second: the barrel and the piece that holds the forearm on.

I am not comfortable taking to this thing with an abrasive. Should I call in a professional?

No, that is easy do it yourself stuff. You use an abrasive when you brush your teeth, same principle. Disolve the rust with Kroil penetrating oil, brake fluid or something else on a Q-tip swab, then a light buff with steel wool or cleaning pad in those specific spots. Touch up blue if necessary, then some oil or grease to keep from rusting again. I do a lot of them like that and really fixes the problem.

There is also a product that is available from Brownells, Midway and other places sold under a couple of different names, one in particular on the Cylinder & Slide brand name CS073 Deleading Wool. It looks like a stainless steel wool pad, however different from steel wool which has round edges to the strands and oil on it, this has sharp sides to the strands and no oil. In addition to scraping leading, it works very well with a rust solvent over blue metal without scratching the bluing only picking up the rust.