Marlin Firearms Forum banner

21 - 40 of 41 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Got a little done today ... 3 1/2 hours out of the afternoon for a trip to the Smith's Shop to pick up the Savage Receiver/Barrel ...

Got the remaining small parts repaired and cleaned and prepped for bluing ... Have the Barrel stripping and prep started. Probably 5 to 6 hours left on the barrel prep and then a couple on the Receiver ...
834765
834766


So here is the Small Parts family of prep items ...
834767


Removed the Stock from the Acetone Tank after about 32 hours for a check ... oil leached so laid the stock about 7' to 8' in front of the heater flow to get it dried out. Goal for tomorrow is try and get the Barrel and Receiver prepped
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)
I noticed something looking at one of the pictures I posted ... The fitment of the Rear of the Trigger Guard to the wrist of the stock.
834802


With it being in hand I thought I would alleviate the problem ...
834804

834807

After a little rasping, filing and sanding ...
834805
834806

834808


There is just a tiny bit more fitting to do but going to wait until after the Grip Cap is in place to finalize ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
920 Posts
Okay, next time my Stevens stock goes under the rasp I need to fit my trigger guard.
Really makes a difference.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MidBigWest

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Tomorrows shop choices ...
1) Final sanding and buffing on the Savage 1895 Receiver and Barrel and blue
or
2) Final sanding and buffing on the Stevens 87A Receiver and Barrel and blue
or
3) Work in the 87A Stock
  • Taper the Comb and modify the comb drop and flute the wrist at the comb
  • Make a Grip Cap ... reshape the Pistol Grip to work with the cap and recontour the Toe to Grip cap line on the bottom of the stock
  • Cut and glue up piece for the Fore Tip
  • Reshape the fore stock and shape in the Schnabel Tip
Decisions - Decisions ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Stock looks like spalted maple. On my monitor anyway.
Thanks for the info. I did some searching trying to find what type of wood might have been used in the manufacture but didn't find any in the short spurt I took to look.

It is really different ... this stock has more variation in the hard wood portion to the soft than any I have ever dealt with. Sanding and keeping a consistent level surface where they were side by side showed up quickly. I hope this doesn't present too big a problem with the addition of the grip cap and the fore end.

There seems to be a quite a bit of dark coloring mixed around some of the harder areas which will sand out and become less prominent and lets more of the grain line show through in that area.

834850


There are a couple of areas that look like they have fill in them ... they don't but sure appears to be ... the 4 dots mid picture and the light area to the far right ... this area to the right runs almost to the fore tip ...
834851


I am anxious to see how these areas color with the oil or if this stock is going to have to be stained. I am hoping the contrasts will stay and the lighter areas will take on some color but not a lot. I believe it has potential to be a looker if everything works out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
So today's Shop Choice to start with was #2 ... The thing I really don't enjoy doing a whole lot - final sanding finish pass and all the final repairs of flats, dealing with pinhole relics of pitting repair, repair and finish of the drift slots and wheel polishing. So after about a 3.5 hour investment in time and Fairy Dust the Barrel and Receiver are ready for bluing. Just over 10 hours in metal prep so far. I will tackle the Mag Tube later today or tomorrow. Hands are pretty tired and sore from all of the sanding work this morning. Will most likely start working on the stock mods this afternoon.

The interior of the Receiver has been scrubbed and cleaned. Also the muzzle was repaired and reshaped - was a little beat up • didn't take a picture ...

834867

834868
834869
834870
834871
834872
834873
834874
834875
834876
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Did some work ( experimenting ) on the stock. I have been asked several times about doing Flutes and I always had to answer "never done that". So this refurb seemed like a perfect opportunity to try. ( read into that - try and not screw up the stock )

Like many other things one does after researching the internet and doing some reading and digging you find it is not nearly as easy as everyone makes it sound. Not rocket science by any means but I did learn a couple of things while going through this. First big major thing - I don't have the correct size round rasp to do this. I have a size below and one above - story of my life ... LOL The next thing is - you always hear it is hard to make a pair of anything. I know in some woodworking I've done, metal work on equipment around the farm and from watching "Forged in Fire" making 2 of something just alike is a chore. Trying to match the 2 flutes was no exception ...

The goal is to increase the angle of the comb drop. Reshape the transition from the wrist to the comb drop and add the flutes. Easy enough ... cough. Light snickering allowed as you go through this but please hold all laughter - first attempt here ...

The original line of the comb drop is shown below ...

834929

This was modified and increased to a little over 135°. Haven't quite made it yet in this picture. Not quite to the line for the angle.
834910


Marked the flute locations and started the cuts ...

834912


834922

834923

834924

834925

834926

834927


834928


This little "enhancement" was a little nerve racking ... another learn as you go experience here ...

There is a little final shaping and finish to be done. This will be completed after the grip cap and the Schnabel fore tip are in place.

Tomorrow will be getting grip cap roughed in and attached ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
420 Posts
If you are going to stain the stock darker you might consider a sanding sealer / prestain. Minwax makes them. The hard and soft portions take the stain at different rates and come out blotchy looking. You know this anyway I am sure. There really is some nice figure in that cheap economy stock. Your flutes came out great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
920 Posts
I can second steve-brook's comment about prestain.
I used it on a pallet wood stock and haven't looked back since. My stains are more even, and when I use an oil finish without stain the surface is much more even and flat.
I learned that in stock geometry, the line of the flute should be a straight line to the toe? or bottom of the butt. Sometimes easier said than done!
I really enjoy your threads!

PS, forgot to mention, after years of finishing motorcycles I have learned to go to the local automotive paint store and buy sandpaper on a roll. Comes in several grits. It is adhesive backed and can be applied to just about any shape you have in the shop. I used a 1/2" dowel with some 120 grit to form my last pair of flutes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
If you are going to stain the stock darker yo might consider a sanding sealer / prestain. Minwax makes them. The hard and soft portions take the stain at different rates and come out blotchy looking You know this anyway I am sure. There really is some nice figure in that cheap economy stock. Your flutes came out great.
Came out as good as I coud have hoped for on a first try I guess - Thanks. I ended up having to cut out a paper shape copy of the flute on the left which I made first. The flute on the right just kept not looking correct and I kept tuning it with the rasp. I kinda looked, measured with a caliper and it seemed to measure pretty much the same on both sides but just didn't look right. Got the paper outline copy pattern made and moved it side to side checking the shape, length and depth of the two flutes.

They are pretty much the same. It is the grain running through the right flute. Makes for an "Optyckle Extrueshun" ... just makes the flutes not look the same. Who wudda thunk ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
I can second ... !

PS, forgot to mention, after years of finishing motorcycles I have learned to go to the local automotive paint store and buy sandpaper on a roll. Comes in several grits. It is adhesive backed and can be applied to just about any shape you have in the shop. I used a 1/2" dowel with some 120 grit to form my last pair of flutes.
Haven't had "Baby" out in over a year ...
834992

834993
834994


O.K. you have put another thing on the list ... get 'er uncovered - out of the barn - cleaned up - serviced and back on the road ... Thanks a lot SIR ... lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
920 Posts
I have just about given up on the hope of riding. I'm having balance issues.
I fell in the garage a couple of weeks ago and mashed my right knee pretty bad.
I don't relish the idea of going down at 72, so my beloved Sportster may have to become a shrine!
835043
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,567 Posts
Man RT you do beautiful work.
I gave my cousin/brother a Marlin model 50?
Might should have had you take a look before.
But he is good at this stuff.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,567 Posts
And now i have to go look at the cheapo beater section of my LGS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #36 (Edited)
2 jobs attempted yesterday one success - one failure do to self arrogance and laziness ...

1) Get the Grip Cap glued on and roughed in ...

The grip cap surface had to be realigned to correspond with the line of the stock and to remove the large chip out of the edge of the grip
835090
...
Recontoured the Grip Cap surface to the top line ... rasped and filed down ...
835091


This is where the self arrogance and laziness comes in. Normally I do the entire clamping setup in a dry run to make sure everything is lined up and fits properly. Make sure I am using the best sized and type clamp - best shaped and size wooden spacers and wedge helpers. When I do clamp things it is usually in hand out of the vice if possible which allows me to see all of the edges of the glued surfaces. Well with this I was kinda in a hurry and all of my last clamping jobs had gone well so I short cutted everything. Drilled the dowel guide holes in the cap and Grip Surface freehand and not in the press ... left the job in the vice ... grabbed a clamp out of the pile ... grabbed about 4 or 5 wooden wedges ... glued up the dowel connection ... put the rough cap in place and clamped it down. Looked at the fit as best I could in the vice like it was. Huge error here. 5 hours later when I took it out of the clamp it was a mess ... one side of the grip cap had a 1/32" gap along a 3/4" run and another place where there was a gap. Unrecoverable and unusable. To the band saw and whack it off. Spent the next 1 1/2 hours getting the grip cap surface cleaned up and back to square and flat. so today I will try again the proper way. The price you pay for stupidity ain't good.

835092

You can see the gap here under the corner of the cap in the middle. Showed up like a sore thumb after the glue dried and pulled back from the joint. Wasn't evident with the glue still wet and sealing the edges.
835093

835094


2) Got the Mag Tube prepped for bluing ...
835085
835086
835087
835088
835089


Hopefully will get the grip cap on ... so the down time for the glue to dry will be filled with bluing the metal ... plenty of that to do ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
M ...
I gave my cousin/brother a Marlin model 50?
...
But he is good at this stuff.
I have looked around for one of those for the last few years ...
835111

just a different looking animal ... Have seen one on a gun show table but it was in a condition even I wouldn't have taken a throw at.

I think it would be really neat to have one of those in hand and restored ... only pro quo is I would have to purchase it for a really cheap price ... wouldn't want to break tradition ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
Interesting. Last year I re-barreled a donor Savage to 6.5x55 as I had a good Shilen barrel sitting around doing nothing. The donor is in the first pic, and I "shaved" off a good bit of the original wood. The finish was Aquafortis, heated, then several coats of Trueoil. I think the original wood was Beech, but I could be wrong on that. Anyway, the finish came out "interesting." Rifle is MOA accurate though!



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,355 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Interesting. ...
I think the original wood was Beech, but I could be wrong on that. Anyway, the finish came out "interesting." Rifle is MOA accurate though!



That muddy grain look is surely familiar ... have had that look on several of the Model 60's I have done.

Nice job SIR ... looks good ...

And a quick complement ... you have space on your work bench you can actually see ... very good ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,203 Posts
That muddy grain look is surely familiar ... have had that look on several of the Model 60's I have done.

Nice job SIR ... looks good ...

And a quick complement ... you have space on your work bench you can actually see ... very good ...
Thank you for the complement.

As for the workbench space.....I had to clean it all up before I took the pic!! ;)
 
21 - 40 of 41 Posts
Top