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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What do they usually slug at? My brother's 1951 SC slugs at .3585. A little bigger than I was prepared for. We plan on sizing the bullets to .359 or .360. Is this common? This old gun is a beauty. I only wish I had found it. I was busy slugging it last night and almost decided it couldn't possibly be his. It came to rest at my place! What a great old gun!
 

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Soooo, you finally have been introduced to the .35. And you like it?? How did I know you would?

I can't answer your question about slugging, but it caught my eye that you now have a connection with the .35. Isn't the SC an incredible mod? I thougth I had one about a month ago but it wasn't as original as I wanted. Hated to turn it away because it was in really great shape otherwise, about 90% and untapped. I'm still looking for one so any help would be appreciated.

I did happen up on a 30WCF two weeks ago. A "W", straight grip. Bluing about 90% but wood needs some help.

When are you going to get .35 of your own Dr. A?

SS
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You are a pesky one, Sidespin! If this had been up in front of me at the auction, I would have outbid my brother. The gun is all original except for one drill hole he uses for a reciever sight. Unfortunately, this is only the first 35 I have ever even seen!. None of the gun stores around here have them, and I am reluctant to buy over the web. Sooner later I will have one. I did notice that Guns-america has a couple. I like this SC the best, although the A with 24 in. barrel would be awful nice as well. I think you have collected nearly all of them, Sidespin, and therefore none make it up my way! I have really enjoyed my 357, and this would be another 35 to add. Now I need a 356 as well in case you see one!
 

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Well, let's get this one back up top to attract some attention to your needs.

If you don't mind my asking, how much ransom did your brother have to pay for this little piece of Marlin history?

Only a few of the stores around here have ever had them. Are you looking for another SC, or will most any model work for you?

I have a few .35's, not nearly as many as I need. I concur that an old "A" would be really nice addition, I'd pay dearly for such a find.

And yes, you do need a .356ER. I have had mine for about 8 months or so, haven't shot it. I don't have any other rifles that have the beauty this rifle has. It is about 95%.

Buying guns on the internet -- I have purchased one, my M375, and had no problems. But I should defer to those who have more experience than I. I know that Ranger and Hunter do quite a bit of internet business, pehraps they or others will weigh in.
 

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Weighing in.
I have completed in excess of 60 transactions on the internet within the last 18 months.
While there was an occasional poor description of the product or a functional firearm problem on the sellers part, all sellers worked dilligently with me to rectify it and make it right.
No one has ever had a legitimate complaint about my wares either.
If you are going to be a buyer, I can assure you that there are extremely few dirtbags out there relative to what is available at any given time.
Should you ever sell via the internet, there will always be a few "I want something for nothing" types out there as well.
I have been successful as a buyer 100% of the time, so the risks are minimal that you will run into a low class seller.
The best advice I could give is:
A> Do your homework. Know what something is worth in the real world. Blue book isn't even a legitimate guide anymore.
B> Decide what YOUR maximum outlay will be. You will find, more often than not, that you will be outbid by others willing to spend more.
C> Don't wait to get into the bidding on something you like. You will occasionally find that no one else wants what you are after, and you end up paying a real good price.
D> Do NOT be afraid to make offers and haggle, there is nothing shameful about wanting to spend less. Just don't be ridiculous. You only insult a seller and put them on the defensive about doing business with you. I have done this when there was nothing left to lose but the item itself and I didn't need it but wanted it. Nothing ventured nothing gained, and I have "stolen" some pricey stuff by doing this. If you truly care to make a deal, be reasonable.
E> Ask ALL your questions before venturing into the bidding or offering. Ask for extremely detailed descriptions and pics if possible, though I was just as satisfied with verbal descriptions when no pics were available. I have found very few sellers over rate their stuff, most under rate it so their is no chance of being called a liar. I got a Marlin 375 in absolutely like new condition at auction where the seller rated it at 85%. (Wish I didn't trade that one !!) Definitely worth more in the condition it was in, and the pictures looked stunning.
F> Check seller feedback. How many transactions have they completed, how long have they been at internet sales, is their feedback ALL positive ? or if any negative, any reasonable rebuttals or explanations ?
G> Have a FFL at your disposal to handle the transfer and make sure that they are willing to receive from a private party and not just other FFLs.
If you have any further requests or need additional info on internet firearms purchasing, just email me or post and I will reply.
Ranger
 

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Dr. A said:
What do they usually slug at? My brother's 1951 SC slugs at .3585. A little bigger than I was prepared for. We plan on sizing the bullets to .359 or .360. Is this common? This old gun is a beauty. I only wish I had found it. I was busy slugging it last night and almost decided it couldn't possibly be his. It came to rest at my place! What a great old gun!
:( :( :(
Beware some of the MICRO GROVE 35 Remingtons from Marlin slug out to 360. So size to one thou over bore for that one.
I have found out that tolerance have opened up again and you need to check bore size again to get a good shooter.
My 1954 Marlin RC has a ballard rifled bore and appears to be one of the tight ones because it will group the 358 lead.
 
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Ranger put forth some good information regarding internet sales/purchases. I have been at it a good while and have had good results over the 7 years that I have been doing it. Only a few out of many transactions resulted in less than quality firearms or inadequate descriptions of firearms. Check the feedback rating and ask questions before bidding. I've passed on deals where the seller won't timely answer questions about the firearm they are selling. When I auction/sell something, I usually underrate it so that the buyer will be pleasantly surprised when they recieve it. I have been auctioning/buying firearms on the net since 1997, back when you could do so on Ebay.
Also, insist on a 3 day/inspect/return option for the firearm if you are dissatisfied in the condition. The 3 day deal should commence upon it being delivered to your FFL and an email/phone notification within the 3 day period with a subsequent shipping back of the firearm within a week to initiate a refund. I tend to require an FFL from the seller with the firearm so that it can be returned if dissatisfied. This cost must be factored in to the purchase price along with the the FFL fees on your end and shipping. Otherwise, you won't be able to return the firearm to them if it is not in the condition that it was described.
Note: changing your mind about the purchase is not a valid reason to send the gun back if it is in the condition described. Your option is to relist the item and or sell it locally.
Auctions cost time and money and the seller has a reasonable expectation that the firearm will stay where it was sent if it was described adequately. Just because you found the same thing later on Joe Bob's auction for a lot cheaper price is not the fault of the seller.
If I get a notification of something like that, I will notify them that a restocking fee will be applied to cover the costs of my FFL recieving the gun back for me. This tends to evaporate the savings on Joe Bob's auction.
I have also perused the For sale ads on graybeard's site, shootersforum.com, accuratereloading.com,the highroad, perfectuniopn, 24hourcampground and have had quality transactions/trades.
Hope this helps.
Hunter5567
 

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Agreed with Hunter, though I usually insist that the inspection period begin when I actually get to my FFL to inspect the firearm, as my FFL lives 45 minutes away and I can't get there right away or even for a few days sometimes.
I do inform the seller of this before I bid if I feel it may be a problem for them, as in all fairness, they would like to finish with the transaction asap also.
Ranger
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for all the good advice. This gun is not perfect in its blueing, but has gone kind of grey. No rust and no bare steel showing. Wood could be refinished, but why? It has character. My brother paid 220$ for it. I think I would have gone 350. Bore is pristine and it shoots great. Rifleing is deep and pretty! I have found a 356, but am waiting to see if the owner will part with it. It pretty much should be a parts gun. Spent most of its life on an ATV bouncing around dusty gravel and thornbush. Not sure how well it will shoot. He only runs a couple of boxes through it a year.
 

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Dadgum, such treatment of a .356. If you can buy it for a song, think it over. Sounds like it needs to be rescued and retired with honor.
 

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Dr A,
Marlin lists the .35 with Micro Groove rifling at .358" groove, with a groove width of .040" and 16 grooves.
The earlier Ballard style rifling was actually larger at .359" and .110 width grooves, 7 grooves.
Hope this helps.
 
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