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Hi, im new here my name is dave

I read this weekend a very interesing post from 35 remington about cast bullets and was going to contact him about some questions i have starting to cast for the marlin 336 rifle I have....I dont see him here any more and his post was about 2008. My rifle has got the old deep rifelings, and a 24 inch barrel was manufactured in 1951. It shoots very well with 220 grain speer bullets ..

Ive been casting bullets for probably since the early 70s, and lately mostly 45-70 with slow velocity loads of 5744. So 35 remingtons post had some very interesting points to it, i am not familiar with.

here are some questions that i have been having trouble with this conscept lately.. I use a tin and pure lead about 20-1 mix for great results so far, but tin is getting expensive, so i would like to cut my bullet weight in half, go to a double bullet mold for speed and use wheel weights for cost savings..

Here are the questions:

Have the wheel weight proportions of antimony lead and arsnic changed..Some reading from guns and ammo and research led me to believe the modern mix shrinks more, and is cheaper to make for wheel weights i think less antimony.. it seems when i try to do wheel weights with my 400 grain rcbs 458 flat nose, the bullets are too small in diameter to shoot well or curb leading even with gas checks.. Im not using high pressures so that may be the problem.. I size 459 and i get skinny spots (under diameter) on the bullet that seems to raise holy heck with leading and accuracy in my 45-70.. so ill stick to lead/tin mix for those molds.

does it matter if i shoot under sized bullets with gas checks in the 35 rem (under .358) with 3031 or other higher pressure loads with modern wheel weights?

do you guys have diameter problems with modern wheel weights?

casting colder temps defintely makes larger bullets but this sometimes is not enough to get good sized bullets for me(45-70), what do you do with modern wheel weights, shoot them all, sort out the skinny ones or have a trick o get them bigger diameter.

how many rounds do you fire between cleaning for best accuracy?.. my 45-70 seems to vary becouse of barrel heating from high rate of fire or some other factors .. it gets very good accuracy with cleaning about every 10 rounds.. again low pressure loads, bhn 12, 24.5 grains 5744, about 14000 pressure, with gas check 400 grain rcbs shot 1 1/4 inch at 100 yards this weekend with clean bore. ruger number one. leupold 6-18 v2x. 14000 pressure shows a 11.5 bhn in lbts charts, so it fits my needs.

would a 35 rem with 2000 fps and a 12 bhn(wheel weights) like 35 rem talks about have a certain regimen for cleaning like my 45-70 with good accuracy?

for a hardness of 12 bhn and 2000 fps with 3031 is too soft for lbts chart of hardness/ and pressure? does anyone else have non leading problems and decent accuracy with this type of load,

would this high pressure tend to fix slight undersize problems?

IM looking at purchasing a rcbs 358 200 grain gas check mould, .359 sizing die, (lbt blue lube) gas checks and using the rcbs crimper to straiten the case without an actual crimp. 35 remington said a crimp was not needed for this cartrige.. any comments appreciated.

what loads have YOU had good accuracy with with this bullet?

Here is another problem, i did a wheel weight and cast for bhn test months ago and over several weeks the hardness changed as time went on from about 12 to 18 bhn (not exact, i dont have my notes with me) in hardness..

have you noticed a problem with this or do you just cast and shoot at any particular time range not worrying about it?..

Thanks for reading my bad typing, and Ill be glad to here from you,,, dave in montana..
 

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Hello and Welcome to MarlinOwners...
First off lets address the WW issue... Wheel weights only come with about .50% tin so you should add some tin if you want the best fill out. Unlike pure lead and tin mix, Wheel weights contain Antimony and Arsnic so they will get alot harder if you water quench or heat treat them and I would recomend this if you want to get up to 2000fps.
Your 20:1 equals out to 5% Tin and that is where your good fill out comes from where your .50% Tin in Wheel weights dont.
You could also use Pewter from thrift stores as Tin if you can find some cheap...

I would recomend the NOE version of the RCBS 35-200 boolit (yeah its the one I have!) It has a wider meplat then the RCBS one does and it is a .360 mold so even if it comes in a little small you can still use the boolits. Mine drop at .361 mostly and I run them through a .360 sizing die that was made for me by BuckShot on the cast boolit forum. but you could use the .359 die
2 Cavity mold: 360 200Gr. FN 2 cavity GC (RCBS), NOE Bullet Moulds
5 Cavity mold: 360 200Gr. FN 5 cavity GC (RCBS), NOE Bullet Moulds

I also cast my own 45-70 boolits (they are a hoot to shoot!!)

So all in all just add some tin to your Wheel weights and they will fill in nicely (try 1% at first)

Doc
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thankyou, thankyou, the oversized molds should take care of most of my problems..

how many days do you wait to shoot the cast wheel weight bullets With 1 percent tin added?
 

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I let my freshly cast bullets rest 10-14 days before I size them. I perfer 14 days, but If I'm pressed I'll start shooting them after 10 days. I use the Lyman 204gr RN as my 35cal bullet in the 200gr weight class. I size them to .360dia. You don't need a custom sizer die Lyman has them available. My alloy for pushing them on the fast side with a gas check is 66/34% range scrape to lino mixture. Plain base bullets under 1400fps I change the mixture to 90/10%. The lino aids in filing out the moulds. It works fine in all my hyphens.
 
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For me it depends on whether or not I water drop them... if I air cool they are good to go in a few days, If I water drop then I usually wait a couple to few weeks for them to age harden to where I want them.

Hey City Slicker, you have any pics of those rounds nose boolits? sure would like a peek at them...

Doc
 

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ffffg:

If you don't already go there, you should look up gunloads.castboolits.com, like Doc mentioned. You will find many of your questions answered.
 

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As seen in the picture in post #10 it is a 30-30 necked up to 35 caliber. Many believe it is the first wildcat cartridge. Originally done to rescue worn out 30-30's and 32Spl's.
 

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Here are the NOE 35-200-FN's

35-200.jpg


Doc
 

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IF you can print or blow up this attachment, it is an article about "the oldest 35 caliber wildcat" can also be found under the moniker "350 Maine Guide" with a #1 and a #2 version thereof. City Slicker posted the target a while back and I snagged it for my library. That Saeco bullet would be the only mold I would "need", though I have many others to play with, thanks guys!

Since it was brought up, fast becoming my next "gotta have"

Jeff
 

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Learn something every time I'm on here.
 

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I have to ask very stupid now times. is the use of lead with the micro grooves alright? I had read that it were not so optimal.
 
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Absolutely no problems, if the bullet is sized correctly. 003.JPG fairly accurate too
 
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