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Has anybody actually done the 35 Rem to 356 Win conversion on a 336? What exactly is involved besides rechambering? Did the action have to be adjusted to work reliably? I want to use the gun for black bear and moose but I am concerned that the gun may not function properly? Any recommendations on a GOOD gunsmith to do this conversion. Thanks for your time.
 

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I think that you would be better off just going out and getting a used one.

That said:
Looking over the parts sheet for the 336 family you will find that the .35 Rem and the .30-30 use the same magazine tube, follower and spring, so no changes there. The carrier which lifts the round up in front of the breech bolt is also the same. The 336 uses the same extractor and breech bolt for both rounds so you are okay there.

The reason that I am referencing the .30-30 is that it has the same rim diameter as the .356 Win and will be a comparable length round.

That leaves you with a rechambering with the following possible problems. The .356 Win uses a 1 turn in 12 twist rate while the .35 Rem uses a 1-16 twist. However the .350 Rem Mag also goes with the 1-16 twist.

HUGE PROBLEM: THE .356 WIN RUNS AT HIGHER PRESSURES THAN MOST MARLIN CHAMBERINGS. THAT MEANS THAT YOU WILL PROBABLY WIND UP USING THE STARTING LOADS AND NO HIGHER.

Try running this by www.wildwestguns.com
 

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Marlin Michael, run a search on Nonneman ,he does these conversions for bout $100.00. Good results.from what I here.
The .356 operates at 52,000 cup. thats alot of pressure,some say to much for the 336 action,some say not,some say thats why Marlin won't make anymore .375 win. or .356 win. ?
I don't know ?
But thats why I've got 94 BB in 356 and 375 ,I know there stout enuff.
I don't like ???? in guns or cartridges.
I'm sure theres someone ,will read this thats had a .356 Conversion that can give you ,true insight.
 

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I have a 336ER in 356 win. My father and my father-in-law both, have had the 336 in the 35 rem. rechambered to the 356 win..My father-in-laws gun works fine,but my fathers gun will not shoot if I don't get the COL. just right.If it is to long the action will not close but if its to short it will not fire.I had to play around with the COL. to get it to fire every time.
But to answer your question, the action wasn't adjusted.They were just rechambered and they cycled through the action fine.The only other adjustment made was the load gate had to be filed down a little..You could load it thruogh the load gate but it was a tight fit. So we had him file the opening to make it load easyer.
I hope this helps...
 

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deerdown444 said:
I have a 336ER in 356 win. My father and my father-in-law both, have had the 336 in the 35 rem. rechambered to the 356 win..My father-in-laws gun works fine,but my fathers gun will not shoot if I don't get the COL. just right.If it is to long the action will not close but if its to short it will not fire.I had to play around with the COL. to get it to fire every time.
But to answer your question, the action wasn't adjusted.They were just rechambered and they cycled through the action fine.The only other adjustment made was the load gate had to be filed down a little..You could load it thruogh the load gate but it was a tight fit. So we had him file the opening to make it load easyer.
I hope this helps...
How many rounds have you fired through each gun? At what pressures were those rounds operating? How are the guns holding up? Are locking surfaces showing signs of peening? Signs of increasing headspace?

Really would like to know.
 

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Hobie
I don't know about my father-in-laws gun he uses factory loads,but has had no problems.My fathers gun has had a hundred rounds put through it.I have seen no signs of pressure or signs of peenging..We did carry his rifle back to the gunsmith. He went through the rifle and checked the headspace.He said everything look good that he couldn't find any reason for it not to fire. But my father said the he had the rifle missfire a few times with factory ammo.Before he had the conversion done.
 

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When converting I would think you would want to use the 358 win instead of 356 same case capacity but the rim would be closer to what you want. The two are ballistic twins and the only drawback would be if you used a factory round which comes in a pointed configuration. Not a good thing for your tube magazine firearm. This way you can use the same boltface. Instead of having it enlarged, I do believe the 35 is a little smaller than the 358 rim but not as much as the 35 to 356.
 

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Swany, The .358 is to long,to funtion in the 336, but you could use .358 brass or to that matter 308 brass necked up,you just have to make sure to check OAL ,now in the past I've used .308 brass necked up in one of my .356 94 BB it fed great ,but I'm not sure if the 336 would have the same success,
Marlin Mike, I really like the 35 Rem .cartridge ,now that BUffalo Bore has powerful rounds and theres Data out there for stouter rounds for the 35 Rem. ,and if your not going after ELK, (which my 35rem has taken 4)the 35 rem. should work fine ,and if you want more ummf, just get some Buffalo bore or get some reloading data,
with the advances in bullet construction ,heavier doesn't always mean better, A perfect example is the 300gr. Nosler .458 bullet designed for the 45/70.
I've not really checked for the avilablity for lighter higher quality .358 bullets out ther that would be good for the 35 Rem. ,but I'm sure that there is a few. If flatter shootin is what you want.I've always had luck with 200gr. Cor-lokts pushed at factory Vel.s
Another route would keep your eyes open for a good used .356 win. in a 94 BB,I let my Huntin one go while back ,and kept my new unshot one.
thers alot of choices best thing is to weigh them out.

Good Luck
 
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