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Shot my CS again today, with new scope. 2 Nice groups at fifty yd sight in - 1.25". Then... 6" vertical stringing when I went to 100. Same box of ammo, same hold, same bag rest, same wind. Never had this problem before. Any enlightenment?
 

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wakosama said:
Shot my CS again today, with new scope. 2 Nice groups at fifty yd sight in - 1.25". Then... 6" vertical stringing when I went to 100. Same box of ammo, same hold, same bag rest, same wind. Never had this problem before. Any enlightenment?
Are you resting gun by forearm or by the receiver. Any weight on the forearm could cause vertical stringing. Barrel heating is another possibility.
 

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336 tend to string when the barrel gets hot. This can be frustrating when you are trying to shoot groups - you need to shoot a couple and let it cool, shoot a couple and let it cool. Remember that this is a hunting rifle, what is important is where the first 2 or 3 rounds out of cold barrel go 'cause a target thats alive isn't going to be around after 2 or 3 shots.
 

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Im going to have to agree with the rest of the group. I have the same thing happen when im shooting between 75 and 100 yards (open sights), if I dont let the barrel cool off between shots I get some shots that are off about the same as you by the 4th shot on. Same model 35 as well.
 

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If I am group shooting on a hot day I like to take a small ice chest with ice water and a dish towel. Soak the towel in the ice water, wring real well and wrap around the barrel a few times. Draws the heat right out of it. Oil her up when you are all done.
 

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I usually bring several rifles and just take turns with each. That way one gets 2-3 shots then is allowed to cool. Best of all I get to keep shooting. ;D
 

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kingstrider said:
I usually bring several rifles and just take turns with each. That way one gets 2-3 shots then is allowed to cool. Best of all I get to keep shooting. ;D
Same here... I just plink away with the Model 60 .22 while the centerfires cool down. Actually I like shooting the 22's better than the centerfires :eek:
 

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Having you're rifle cryogenicly processed will solve all barrel heating accuracy problems.
 

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sandman7925 say what? explain Please. Having you're rifle cryogenically processed will solve all barrel heating accuracy problems. Dennis
 

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35 Remingtons do not have accuracy problems! ;D
 

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cryogenically ???
 

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Whenever I see a post that says "...new scope..." and "...accuracy problems..." I always get suspicious of the scope.
 

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There is a process now that freezes the metal parts of a gun to I think a little over -300 degrees for a period of about 24 hours. There is some contraversy surrounding the application but it has been used on high preformance auto parts for a while. The way it was originally discovered was equipment was coming back from space stronger than it left. What I've been told is that is that it relievs all stress in the barrel. The reason a barrel starts to "walk" when the barrel heats up is due to "uneven" heating up. This process will then make the heat distibution disperse evenly. It does not stop it from getting hot so don't think that. I am not an expert however and am not promoting this for myself or a freind,
I had heard a little about a while back right after I picked up my first 1895GS in 45/70. The rifle was shooting about 2" groups at 100yds and had normal heating issues. I was really currious about the process and since it only cost $80 bucks I figured it was worth trying. Well, the results were astounding. My groups shrank to 1 hole smaller than a quarter and absolutely no walking from heating up. And I really put it to the test once. Last time at the range I put 25 rounds at 100yds as fast I could reload and still shoot accurately. I did not stop to clean or lube anything. There was no walking and it was about 90 degrees outside.
The process is supposed to make all springs last longer as well. One of the reasons I decided to do it was that not many people can do it and there happens to be guy near me that does, so that didn't hurt not having to ship anything. Anyways, I swear buy it and am going to have all my rifles done the same way over time. I know that it does help carbon steel more that stainless but it does help stainless as well. here is a link the guy that did mine http://www.cajuncryogenics.com/ Take it or leave it, it may or may not help with original accuracy but it will definitely help with the barrel heating and causing you're guns to walk.
 

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Research yourself as well, and if any of you decide to do I would like to hear about you're results. And the guy behind the link I provide loves to talk about it so call him and ask questions. In fact, he will talk you're ear off about it.
 

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My .35 Rem is probably my most accurate rifle; I mean straight out of the box, no break in, just loaded up some handloads of 200 gr Rem CL and the groups were all about a quarter in size. But I have to agree that over heating the barrel is going to cause the stringing and the groups to really open up. I generally do not shoot this time of the year at Fort Hood because of the heat and when I do it is only about six shots or I plan on taking several rifles along to shoot #1 rifle , change rifles and let #1 cool, shoot #2, change rifles to let #2 cool etc. Good luck


Chief
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Barrel heating I can relate to... it was late aftn and HOT. Scope is fine. Shot little groups at 50, so I should have waited for it to cool. Didn't even think about that.
I'll go early morn next time and try it cold at 100. Thanks for your feedback. It is my favorite Marlin.

I'll be contacting Cryo... sounds interesting.

Be Well...
 

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Glad I read your post.

I had the same problem when I was out three weeks ago sighting in three centerfires after doing a three-way scope shuffle. Seemed like accuracy was diminishing as I continued to shoot. I thought it was a bit of recoil fatigue on my behalf after firing about 35 rounds of mostly Hornady LE or Superperformance ammo through the rifles. They may well have heated up though as I was shooting each one about five to eight times in a row before switching to the next. Air temp was about 65 that day.

I was reasonably happy with the groups for deer hunting rifles, but thought I could've done better.

Any advice on the amount of time to wait for them to cool in between one or two shot groups? I imagine the outside temp factors in...
 

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The hotter they get, the longer they need to cool. Also keep in mind the action will stay hot longer than the barrel, and so will take longer to cool completely. I have taken bottles of rubbing alcohol to the range to aid with cooling......pour some on a rag draped over the barrel. It speeds things up but it still takes time. Ambient temperature also matters. If it's 95 degrees outside, you're not going to get a lot of cooling from the outside air.

I try not to fire more than three shots from a levergun before setting it aside to cool. Some of my bolt guns have bedding issues and will string shots, others remain consistent for 20-30 rounds. Every gun is a law unto itself. 8)
 
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