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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have shot some nice groups with this rifle. I sighted the rifle in last summer and hunted with it this fall. Shot 3 deer two at about 50 yards and one a little over a hundred. One of the close deer the bullet was on the mark. The POI on of the other 2: one was high to the left one high, to the right. I just thought it was me. Well, I took it out to do some more shooting. It seemed to be a all over the place, 5 inch groups at 100 yards on more than not. Best would be about 3 inches. The crazy thing was that there would be multiple shots almost touching. These close impacts would be inches(3-4) away from the other grouping. I could shoot multiple groups at the same target and even then shots from different groups would seem to group together. I would even let the rifle cool in between single shots and would also shot 3 round groups fired right behind one another and could tell no difference. So, I changed scopes thinking that may be the problem, nope! When I changed scopes I checked the bases to see if they were loose. They were tight. So, I took a dummy shell and "fired" away. It almost seemed like the trigger pull and the hammer fall was inconsistent. I could see the reticle jump and sometimes not. So, I have ordered a Wild West Happy Trigger and a hammer spring kit(the one with bushings). I hope this helps solve the problem. Also I ordered another tenon for the forearm, the original might be a little too loose causing the pressure points to be different on the barrel. I know I have ran into this with other levers when it came to shooting off a rest and shooting holding the forearm. Other than that I don't know what is causing my problem. I almost thought I was losing my edge, then I shot some good groups with my bolt guns, some around .75 MOA and that gun has a 7.5 lb trigger( tested it years ago).

There is no doubt I can out shoot this rifle with my other open sighted levers.

Just a little frustrated! But, hopefully not for long.
 

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Are you using factory ammo? My 338MXLR is very accurate with FTX even with handloads but I haven't been able to duplicate the groups with other bullets. Fom
 

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The 7.5lbs is a crazy heavy trigger. I love the Marlin lever guns,but find the factory triggers disheartening. I am a fan of the WWG happy triggers and have put them on all my Marlins. Midway even sells a stainless version of the WWG trigger that I have used to replaced the triggers on my 1895XLR and 338MXLR.

My 338MXLR is a tac driver, but two things had to happen; a new trigger and the right ammo for the gun. A WWG trigger and the Hornaday LeverEvolution has me shooting .75" groups at 100 yards off the bench. It is my most accurate rifle.
 
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Well, I'm knocking on wood while stating that my 338MX shoot 0.71875 at 100YDS and 1.5625 at 200YDS. I might add that was on a very windy day too. Both my Express rifles have great triggers that are very light and crisp. So I hope that holds up. My 308MX shoots 0.5625 at 100YDS making it my most accurate.

I will be very interested to hear a report on what difference the WWG trigger makes. Hopefully that solves your problem.

Jack
 

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My 338 came with a trigger so heavy you could hang the rifle from the trigger when it was cocked and it wouldn't trip. Accuracy was non existent. After being reworked at marlin when they fixed the cycling problem it was at about 4.5 to 5 lbs. Amazing difference in accuracy. Plan to take it down to 2.5 to 3 lbs.
 

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Wow, that is stiff! Both my Express rifles break at 2 1/3 pounds from factory. Strange how inconsistent the trigger pull can be coming out of the same factory but they do.

I could not live with that heavy of a trigger, get it lightened up and it will put a smile on your face pulling your trigger. Mine are sweet! and yeah, improved accuracy will naturally follow.

Jack
 

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I put a WWG on my 308 MX and it helped a great deal. 1.26" @ 200 yards.

Now for drs .338 - it seems that everyone suggests a trigger change, and it could / probably would help, however, you said it shot well to begin with and then groups went bad. Have you shot it enough that you might have copper fouling? Defouling the bore might help.

Mine did much the same, and I decided, after many changes, to break in the bore. until then I had never really broken in a bore. When I was about ready to wrap the rifle around a tree I decided to give it a try. It required about a half day, at least 80 rounds of ammo, cleaning rod, supplemental recoil pad and about a million patches.

I shall not recount the full measure of the process but the rifle printed better groups right before my eyes. I will share with you if you feel the need to proceed... I will add -- though the .338 does not generate an overly heavy recoil, the cumulative effect was extremely stressful, however, my 338 MXLR will habitually print 1" to 1.25" @ 100 yds. I'm quite sure a trigger change would help further.
Ss
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I shoot factory ammo. I have reloaded some for it and it actually out shot the factory stuff next to the last outing. Yes, I have shot some good groups in the past, so I thought any inconsistencies was me. I then tested some reloads and most shot horrible with a couple showing promise(actually another thread on here). Then I shoot the control group(factory) ~1.25" but it was low and to the right by a couple inches both ways. Well, that little thought in the back off my mind, that something is not right, was getting bigger. So I took it out again. I shot factory ammo @ 225 yards and to be quite honest I could hit the board side of a barn. I had some rounds from different groups have the same POI. At this point since I have received the rifle used I have shot it some were over 200 times, so I hope the barrel is broken in. So I changed optics, I thought the adj. objective parallax might be messing with my crazy eyes. So I changed optics and at the same time cleaned the bore to remove any copper fowling thinking that may be some of the issue then went back and shot with the same results, inconsistency but POI but bullets from different groups grouping and an occasional fair group. That's when I did the snap cap thing. In the mean while is when I shot the other rifle with a 7.5 lb trigger which I have always been able to shoot .75 groups with since I bought it 23 yrs. ago, just to reassure myself I haven't lost it and I had not.
 

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I have a 2008 338 MXLR. It would not shoot under 5 inches no matter what. But I will tell you how I got mine to shoot. Mine will not group at all until about the 12th. round thru the barrel. Did not clean, she tighten up after the 12th, tighter after each round....... Thus the nickname.... "Dirty Girl":flute:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have done all the changes/improvements: Trigger Happy Kit, Palo Verde Hammer Spring Kit, new tenon for forearm and a little bit of poslishing of the action. Haven't had time to shoot it yet. I was fixin' to go shoot when the phone rang and was informed the pump/well was not working. So off to fix that instead.
 

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Original post sounds like a scope problem. My M1895 .45/70 GuideGun did the same thing with a Leupold Vari-X III 1.5-5x scope. I'd aquired the scope on another gun purchase.
I noticed that when the power ring was turned the reticle would move. Also, if the gun was dry fired, the reticle would move (jump).
I sent it back to Leupold with a letter explaining what was wrong.
Six weeks later I got a call from a very nice young lady explaining that the scope had been inspected and found defective. However, they were no longer able to repair the scope as neccessary parts were discontinued and not available. I had two alternatives; 1. A refund of estimated wholesale cost of scope or 2. They would send me a NEW VX-3 1.5-5x scope.... I got the scope!!!
(when is the last time chevrolet replaced your 20yr old car with a new one because the transmission was wore out, and couldn't be fixed, HUH ????).
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I changed scopes, I really think it is an inconsistent trigger pull. I loaded up some rounds and grabbed my last box of factory ammo I had and went to go shoot. I got every thing set up, snap , bang , snap. Miss fired on 2 of 3 factory loads. The hammer spring was not strong enough, had it set on 6 out of 7, 7 being the strongest. I then drove 30 minutes back home, put the last spacer on the spring. Now I'm waiting on the rain and storms to blow by so I can go try it again. This time I'll be taking tools and the original spring, just in case. I can tell you already though, I love the trigger.
 
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drs
Plenty of factors can have minor effects on accuracy, but if you're experiencing wildly inconsistent groups, I don't they will be solved by a new trigger or different ammo. Both may help, but the kind of inconsistencies you describe can only be addressed by sorting out the forend fixings. Check to make sure your screws are all tight. If nothing has worked loose, then you will need to investigate what's going on inside the forend stock. There is a blog article on our website that will give you some tips, and there is probably plenty of info on the forum too. Good luck, and don't hesitate to ask more questions once you start looking into things.
 

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I have a 2008 338 MXLR. It would not shoot under 5 inches no matter what. But I will tell you how I got mine to shoot. Mine will not group at all until about the 12th. round thru the barrel. Did not clean, she tighten up after the 12th, tighter after each round....... Thus the nickname.... "Dirty Girl":flute:
I hear this now and then. So what does someone do when taking a Dirty Girl hunting? Do you shoot a couple of loads down her bore before you take her out? Or do you clean her and take your chances? I have owned many rifles in my day and once sighted in always on target first shot out of the box is on target. Could this be a problem caused by an over sized bore?
T:biggrin: NY
 

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I'll be keeping an eye on this thread. I hope that when my 338mxlr gets here she's a shooter.
Already planned on getting a wild west happy trigger. Have one on both my 35rem and SBL and love it.
Question drs when shooting your groups how many shots do you take?
I ask this because my 35rem will always pull one to the left on the forth shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
I tried something a little different yesterday. I shot from a rest while holding the forearm, I have seen this make a difference in the past with other lever rifles. I had already done forearm/tenon/magazine tube modifications in the past. Actually, I replaced the tenon because I I think I relieved it too much. I shot decent form the rest but it was not rock solid being I was still holding the forearm and only I was supporting the rest of the rifle. I am sure the rifle is now out shooting me. I shot from a more solid position without me touching the forearm and the groups again opened way up twice the size of when I held the forearm with just a rest/ prop. I know some want think it is to good but it would be similar to when I take shoots while hunting. The distance I shot at was in the neighborhood of 115 yds., because it was out of the mud hole and in the shade.

First target is 6 continuous shots of factory ammo, no cooling.

Second target the two circled groups are 46.0 LVR , WLR primers and the FTX. The other rounds are 47.6 grains of LVR, WLR primers and the FTX, needless to say I want be going there again. This is after shooting some 50 rounds.

Third target is with 46.0 gr loads of LVR with different primers. The letters beside the shots designating what primer was used . All groups 6 shots except for the WLR which was 5 shots.
R- for Remington 9 1/2 ( wild group, spread out one side to the other on the bottom half of the target).
C-CCI 200 ( one to the left of center, the other stringing up from the lower right green circle).
F-Federal ( Top right quadrant, about a 4" group).
W-WLR ( Top right, a horizontal string about 3" high).
 

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