336 wood refinish

Pictures would help. Several methods depending on the damage and the desired results.

Tomray ? Not factory, but I use a mixture of glue and sanding dust from a hidden area of the stock.

BTW does anyone know what a RC stands for? I have the Brophy book but I can't seem to sort it out.

Regular Carbine.

shawlerbrook said:

but I use a mixture of glue and sanding dust from a hidden area of the stock.

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That

Regular Carbine

shawlerbrook said:

I use a mixture of glue and sanding dust from a hidden area of the stock.

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^^ This. It looks like small areas to fill. Too small for a patch. Try to only apply the mixture in the actual holes/dents. Don't "slap it on" and smooth out the existing/remaining grain of the wood. I'd work it in with a toothpick or something else small and precise. It will show on close inspection but shouldn't be too bad.

1893 3240 said:

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After this treatment, use the filler. First reduce the space you need to fill first.

You will need an iron and wet washcloth. Wet the washcloth then fold four layers thick. Place the wet, not dripping, and folded washcloth on the area then apply the hot iron. BTW: mind the fingers, steam is not selective. Also, do not dry the cloth and burn the wood. Do this process several time to swell the wood. Once the wood swells to it's max, sand to remove any raised grain in the areas after dry. Fill as needed with the sanding dust and finish oil. Several layers may be needed of the dust /finish sanding between coats.

Think I would take a few weeks to get 5 6 coats of linseed oil on it. It's added characteristics, don't make a big deal out of it. Just my .02 cents.

Thanks for the hints and info. This carbine has the 20 inch barrel. The magazine is full length and front sight is in a dovetail. The stock is pistol grip and has a plastic cap. The butt plate is flat and plastic with a white line spacer. No monte carlo. Plain no checkering. Four holes in top of receiver are plug screwed. Serial is P6731. Caliber 30-30 micro grooved. Does all this sound correct?

1957 DOM

I would lightly sand it till it’s more flush and then seal it with several coats of Tung Oil.
The rifle is over 60 years old, any little defects in the wood, just adds character.
Andrew

1893 3240 said:

Thanks for the hints and info. This carbine has the 20 inch barrel. The magazine is full length and front sight is in a dovetail. The stock is pistol grip and has a plastic cap. The butt plate is flat and plastic with a white line spacer. No monte carlo. Plain no checkering. Four holes in top of receiver are plug screwed. Serial is P6731. Caliber 30-30 micro grooved. Does all this sound correct?

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Yes, it sounds correct. But more importantly, what’s the story on your avatar photo??

I do the wood glue and dust as well. If possible I take a tiny drill and spot deeper areas in the defect so the glue will gain better purchase. I overfill the spot and let dry for several days. Then sand. I am hoping to be able to get some finish to get into the patch. Usually works fine. An old black powder builder taught me to "hide my mistakes in the sands of time" when over inletting an inlay. Dust and glue. Works great.

I have used the dust-glue method and while I remain a fan, the problem was that the glue, even when it dries clear casts a color of its own and now you can tell where the repair was. I asked a refinisher about this and he said one can color or stain the glue but I dont recall with what. My brother, another non-pro, used various women's powder make-up to color glue when repairing ceramics and got excellent results. This needs experimenting.

I would not use glue as it will be visible.

I would used wood dust mixed with Linspeed oil (it has dryers) or any other finisher you will be using and put it in the pits ONLY in layers allowing time for each layer to dry. It can be hurried with a hair dryer on low setting. When the finish and dust is built up enough to be a bit above the stock wood, LIGHTLY sand (you do not want to remove any wood surrounding the plugged area). When level, allow to dry and apply the finish to the stock. Using the same finish for the buildup in the holes and the stock will prevent any reaction between finish and fill.

I've refinished a fair number is sticks and have had to fill in gouges at times. Issue I've found is no matter what type of glue I've tried, the repair is ALWAYS darker than the surrounding area (often a lot darker) even if I only use sawdust from the same piece of wood. Recently, I've toyed with the idea of mixing in measured ratios of a lighter sawdust such as maple but have not actually tested it yet.

TKM said:

Think I would take a few weeks to get 5 6 coats of linseed oil on it. It's added characteristics, don't make a big deal out of it. Just my .02 cents.

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Or a color matching polyurethane ?