Williams makes a great receiver sight for older Marlins with the 2 little holes on the left side of the receiver, and a new one that utilizes the aft 2 scope base holes on the newer Marlins. I have used both with no problems. You can even get a version with knobs so you don't need a screwdriver. Lyman makes a fine receiver sight for the older Marlins, but I don't know if they have a version for the newer ones. The Lyman 66 is made of steel, if I remember correctly. The Williams sights are alloy. Good luck!
I have used three different Williams receiver (peep) sights on Marlin 336s: Williams 5D, Williams Foolproof, and WGRS (Williams Guide Receiver Sight). The first two attach on the left side of the receiver, the WGRS is fixed on top using the back two scope mount holes. I haven't used the newer types that all mount from the top.
I much prefer the Foolproof. It requires a screwdriver to adjust, thereby protecting you from accidental changes in setting. You can order finger knobs if those are preferred but I have never had them. They will clutter up your peripheral vision a bit more. It has click adjustments, is rugged and reliable. There are a variety of sized of aperture available and for hunting it works just fine with no aperture inserted at all...giving a ghost ring effect.
The 5D doesn't have click adjustments and is a little aggravating to adjust. Once set it is fine until you change loads and have to sight in again. The WGRS is the most trim and clean but it really is a pain to sight in. If you settle on one load for all seasons, it works just as well as the others. But as soon as you loosen the set screws the aperture will slip a little and then you've lost you starting point.
Just my experience with a couple of Marlins, a couple of W94s and Williams receiver sights. Front beads, blades and Firesights are another whole issue. Good luck with your search.
I have a Williams FP on my older 336.
I use it with the rear aperture removed and with a front fire sight with no hood, this is a great combo, very fast and quite good in low light, not as good as a low power scope, but good enough for 99% of what I need.
You may need to install a taller front sight with the FP, I needed one about .450, if I remember correctly.
I want to resurrect this thread after my experience at the range yesterday.
Bottom line: the WGRS is a pain in the a$$! :x It is trim and gives an uncluttered sight picture but it is the absolute pits to adjust precisely during sight-in chores.
The real problem lies in the imprecise nature of the vertical and horizontal slide-type adjustments on the WGRS. Even when I am very careful about using the reference marks to help me control the magnitude of a given change, the tightening of the set screw seems to move things around as much as the adjustment just made. And any change in either elevation or windage seems to cause some change in the other due to the sloppiness/play inherent in the dovetail & slide design.
Life is too short for this kind of aggravation when I am supposed to be enjoying myself. I am getting rid of the WGRS. I will either mount a scope, mount a Williams FP (old style on the side), or sell the Marlin.
Thats odd. I have had good luck with my WGRS. I would have gone with a FP or 5D had my 336CB been drilled on the side, but went with the WGRS. With it and the 5D I always hold things in place with my thumb after an adjustment and tighten it down. But I know what you mean about not liking things. I had a WW sight and thought it was the most over priced worthless thing I had ever seen.
The trick with a 5D is to barely loosen the screws. Keep it tight enough to where you have to tap it to move it. I scratch the sight to see exactly where I was and how far I went. I wish the elevation screw was a little longer, tho.
I have all three styles of williams sights on different rifles, and all three work fine. As others have stated the FP has more precise adjustments, but I haven't experienced the agrivation some others have with the WGRS or the 5D. They all serve the purpose, are accurate and durable-particularly the WGRS. You might have to install a taller front sight with the WGRS, so if thats an issue then go with one of the others. For hunting I would go with the WGRS, for target shooting go with the FP and a target aperature. Have fun, and give an update on what you end up going with.
Well I have cooled off a little. Today I went back to the range after trading out the front sight for a taller one. Had to settle for a large bead size but that can be slimmed down with a little careful filing.
Things went better at the range. I do like the trim profile of the WGRS. If I can get it dialed in for one hunting load that will be great. But it sure isn't something I want to have to tweek very often. :?
I'm new to this sight. I find the discussion on reciever sights and front sights interesting. I have only four Marlins . A 336 in .30/30 with Microgrove rifling, a William 5D receiver sight and a newly installed .410 Marbel's front sight with a 1/16" ivory bead. I find this combinaton works very well for target shooting and hunting and the rifle doesn't shoot 6" high at 50 yds. as with the original front sight. I also have a 336 I rebarreled with a .375 Microgrove barrel and reamed it to .38-55 Win. This has a Williams fool proof and a Lyman .410, 1/16" ivory bead front sight. This combination works well with 255 gr. or 220 gr. bullets. My third Marlin is a Model 94 in .357 with Microgrove rifling, a Williams Foolproof receiver sight and a Lyman .560 1/16" ivory bead front sight. This is the highest front sight Lyman makes and it is just barely high enough to keep .357 ammo on target at 50 yds. My last Marlin is a 1895 in .45/70 with the same sight setup as the 30/30 above. I'm looking for and older (pre cross bolt safety) 336 in .35 Remington to play with next.
I have a WGRS on my 336, and I ended up puting a Williams shorty ramp/fire sight bead combination on the gun. The shorty (single screw) mounts in either the front or rear hole, mines in the rear one. Don't recall the heights for the two, but there are ways to calculate the height needed. Fortunately I have several ramps and beads and was able to play around till I got it the way I wanted it (higher ramp, shorter bead). Do a search and you should be able to come up with the formula to estimate the height you need. Good luck.
Welcome to Marlinowners. I also have a 1/16" Marbles front ivory bead on one of my Marlins and I really like it. The matte ivory finish resists glare, is easy to see, and small enough to facilitate precise aiming. White is my favorite color for sight beads.
My favorite rear sight is the WGRS. It's true, sight-in is tedious, but the low profile, light weight, and relative low cost are the gems. I like to drill out the aperture for more light and FOV. The front part of the hole is larger than the rear and a perfect pilot for a drill bit. Just chuck it up in a padded vise and go at it with a hole shooter. Deburr lightly. Color with a permanent marker. Ta-da!
Thanks for the welcome. I too like to have the rear aperture as large as possible for the "ghost ring" effect. I never find sighting in tedious as it gives me a chance to shoot and it sure beats work !! I have a Marlin Model 94 in which I shoot light .38 loads. It's like eating peanuts...you don't want to stop :mrgreen: What's your favorite shooter??
What a question! Do you mean favorite Marlin? Geesh, I don't know. I love all 4 of mine. The longer ones "hang" a little better on target. My 336A in 32 special has a 24 inch bbl and the nicest trigger of any Marlin I have owned. It's might sweet. Then there's the 1895 with it's slim forend and curved buttplate. The little SC in 35 Rem is short and light and swings like lightning. The 1895G - well, what can I say about that. The G might be the most accurate rifle I own, and that short bbl never catches anything, but the 45-70 bullets absolutely hammer game!