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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about having one or both done. How do these rounds compare? What age gun is appropriate? I have a '71, '72, '74, '82, and an '85 336 in 30/30. Is the steel any different in these or do I need something newer? Thanks, Rick
 

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I think for all intents and purposes with a lever action brush gun, the 30-30AI and the .307 are probably ballistic twins. The .307 has a slight edge.
Either one of your rifles will be suitable for either cartridge.
Good luck,
Ranger
 

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Is it easier to convert a 30-30 Win. to 307 Win. then it is to convert a 35 Rem. to 356 Win.?
 

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Equally easy. Just a chamber reaming as far as I know. Bolt faces do not need any changes.
Ranger
 

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So to convert a Marlin 336 from 30-30 Win. to 307 Win. all you need to do is ream the chamber? Do you have to do anything else to the rifle at all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
30/30ai or 307

According to Nonnemans all it takes is a reamer for either one. I could do both but would I have anything any different other than the calibur? I like the idea of having different guns to work up loads for but can't justify a 50 ft. per second difference as a reason for doing it. Maybe not knowing is the test. Yeah------- thats the test. Could almost get away with that one. Any data on the comparision of the two would help. Thanks, Rick
 

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I think you will find significantly more than a 50fps increase with any of those conversions.
I have a 336ER so my 356 is covered, but I would really like to have a 336 in .307.
Ranger
 

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I have a Marlin 336CS in 35 Rem. that I've been thinking about converting to 356 Win. I also would like to get a Marlin 336SS (stainless steel) and "maybe" rechamber it to 307 Win.
 

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The 35 Rem. is a rimless cartridge and the 356 Win. is rimmed.
The bolt face would have to be changed.

Leave the 336 in 35 Rem. alone and use one of your 30-30's for the conversion.

For me personally, I can't bring myself to "deface" a 35 Rem., but there are so many 30-30's out there that I wouldn't ever hesitate to use one for a conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry Rifleranger, what I ment was, a 50ft. difference between the 307 and the ackley not the 30-30. Yeah, I've got a 356 and a 35 and theres over 400 plus or minus ft pr second difference. I guess I need someones ackley data to compare with the 307. Thanks, Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Forgot to add, my 356 chamber area is a different color blue from the rest of the barrel, like maybe the metal has been treated differently in that part. My 35 doesn't show that difference. Others on this forum have said they start having pressure signs at starting 356 loads. Something to consider if your are thinking of a 35 to 356. If a barrel expands more then it has to contract more possibly putting a tighter constriction on the brass therefore making the lever start sticking etc. JUst a thought. I'm finding out I got very lucky on finding my 356. It hung out in a pawnshop for almost 3 years according to my friend. I gave $330 for it plus $20 tax and then $20 shipping. Looked a bit ratty at first but it cleaned up nice. I'd buy all I could at that price now. Anyways back to the 307 and ackley anybody got ackley data? Thanks again, Rick
 

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Of the rifles mentioned I would use the 1985 .30-30 and then convert it to the .307 cartridge. You will get the most bang for your buck. :D Parley
 

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Of the rifles mentioned I would use the 1985 .30-30 and then convert it to the .307 cartridge. You will get the most bang for your buck. :D Parley
 

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The .35 Rem has a rim diameter of .460, while the .356 has a rim dia. of .508, so the extractor and bolt face would need to be altered.
The .30-30 and .307 are nearly identical, .502 for the .30-30, and .506 for the .307, so they'll only need a reamer.
As for velocities, the .307 is about 300 fps faster than the .30-30AI with similar weight bullets. You may be able to push this, to a couple hundred fps, but the .307 still gets the edge.
There is another thing to consider. The .307 is nearing obsolescence, and the .30-30AI is still going strong, so from that standpoint, it might be a better choice, as it is still quite popular, and more data is available.
 

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I was getting stuck cases with factory loads in my 307/30-30 conversion.
I beleive the carrier has to be opened up to accomadate the fatter cartridge as well as the loading port.
Nonneman's will also rechamber to 30-30AI and I think that is the sensible way to go in a conversion. I believe the fact that the 356 conversion had a larger bore helped alleviate the high pressures of factory loads more so than the 307 conversion.
As was stated, some are getting sticky extraction past starting loads in the 356, so it may be a wasted effort. I beleive the 35 rem can be loaded to higher pressures in the 336 and can come within 100-200 fps of 356 loads. Most of the 356 rifles didn't acheive the factory spec ballistics anyways, especially when data was collected from a 24" barrel.
Nonneman's does a first class job but he may be backed up so you may have to wait a bit to get it back.
I like my 35 the way it is and it has plenty of power as is.I'll probably tweak up some loads, though, just to see what it can do.
good shooting,
 

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Isn't the 7mm STE better than both the 307 or the 30-30AI.

It would require a rebarrel and I believe your bullet selection in 7mm is minimal for a tube fed rifle.
 

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Why don't you just have your 'smith ream out one of your 30-30's to 30-30 AI ?
You can fire-form all your own brass and you'll be having a blast while you're doing it.
 

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The 7mmSTE may be a better cartridge than the .307, but it's also a monumental change in a lever gun, plus possibly a huge pain to get it to cycle through the action.
Changing the barrel would be costly, but the rest of the conversion wouldn't be cheap or easy either!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I just played with a couple of my 30-30s trying to load a 308 round into the magazine tube through the port. The older style port had no problem but the newer one wouldn't let a round in. And the 307 has a larger rim to contend with. Over all cartridge length was wrong with the 308 but it gave a good idea what was entailed. Don't think the stop on the rail will need to be moved back with the proper length cartridge. The proper port will make a difference. The older style has a rounded groove in it. The newer has more of a v grind to it. may have to do them both just to do a comparison. Thanks, Rick
 
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