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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got to shoot a whole bunch of my reloads and it was awesome .my only problem I was shooting my 300wm tc encore. I'm using federal brass and Cci mag primers. I fired 10 rounds just to see if I could actually reload something that would shoot a group rather than just go bang. Well 2 of the rounds failed to fire the first when I opened it it looked like a very light strike to the primer so I just pointed it downing a pulled the trigger again it went bang. The 2nd round same thing but this time I reaimed and it hit right in the group. Is this cause by the primer being to hard or me doing something wrong in the reloading process. And by the way I was able to shoot a 5 round group that is the size of a silver dollar ;D I'm so excited to start really working up because this was an entry level load and still showed great accuracy for a first shot at reloading
 

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CCI has a reputation of their primers being hard. Personally, i prefer Federal. Congrats on finding a load you like!
 

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Check the other empties that went off first time, do the primers have a normal or shallow strike? If they are normal you may need to pay more attention to properly seating your primers.

Mark.
 

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H-bomb and Oz have given you good counsel. CCI primers tend to have slightly thicker cups, and some versions are noticeably harder than other brands. Do you have any fired commercial rounds to compare the primer dents to? That should tell you if it's the primers, or some other issue.

I presume you're using once-fired brass for your reloads.............after you deprimed the brass, did you clean out the soot in the primer pocket? The residue can make it hard to fully seat the new primer, and the firing pin winds up using some of its inertia to push the primer deeper. When you seat new primers, they should be a hair below flush in the pocket, just enough to feel with a fingertip. High primers are a VBT (Very Bad Thing), level primers are okay, but primers seated about five thousandths below flush are what to strive for. Seating the primer fully helps stress the priming pellet a bit, making for more reliable and consistent ignition.

Hope this helps. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok got to looking and I fired 3 factory rounds today just to see where mine came in compared to te factory fodder my gun likes. The dimples all appear very similar maybe just a little more pronounced on the factory rounds but my primers seem to be seated just ever so slightly below the base like you reccomend. So I think what ill do is change to a different brand primer for these mag loaded all my other primer in all other caliber are also cci but haven't had any issues with them. I just hope its the hard primer thing going on. I was being extremely anal when I loaded for this gun because its my baby and goto gun for hunting everything and I know I gotta be on my game to make loads that shoot as well as the factory ones do
 

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I've never torn into an Encore, but I'd bet there's a way to increase the hammer spring tension, and give it a little more energy for stubborn primers. Beyond that I'd switch to Federal primers........they're about as soft as I've ever used.
 

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Well I did some reading around the Encore, seems to have a reputation of light hammer strikes. Do you perhaps have an extension on your hammer? This (so I've read) can cause problems with weak strikes. I also read that with the extra power spring the hammer extension could be used with no problems. Hope this helps!



http://www.bellmtcs.com/store/index.php?cid=86
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I was thinking the same thing maybe a combo of primer and lack of inertia due to the old school hammer fall but ill defiantly try the primer theory first before I tear my baby apart a 3 dollar tray of primer is better than a gun that I jacked up. I have another question ad well cause I know your the man to ask apron how many times can a mag rifle case like this be reloaded on average. And I lied they are winchester nickel cases not federal
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well yes... In a way it is the pro hunter swing hammer I'm sure its heavier that a standard hammer but not as heavy as an extension. I'll have to read your Link and see if I can do a spring by myself or go to the smith but don't care for the one here much :'(
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Haha guess they think I can do it by myself says right there. Should of opened the link before I posted. Guess between that and new primer I may not have any more problems
 

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if it's anything like changing the hammerspring on a marlin levergun it'll be a piece of cake.

case life pretty much depends on you. if you keep from loading hot loads, and neck size instead of full length sizing (assuming that you are loading for only 1 gun) you should get 4-5 reloads on average.

that being said, since you do have a break action, and it is a belted round, you may have to be fairly assertive when closing it up. reason being is that headspace is determined by the belt, and when you fire it pushes the shoulder up just a tad, so the cartridge doesn't go quite as far into the chamber. you dont notice this as much on a bolt gun because of the mechanical advantage of the bolt.
 

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gman82001 said:
............how many times can a mag rifle case like this be reloaded on average.
A lot of that depends on how you load them. Hotter loads wear out brass faster, and the more you size them, the sooner the brass gets work-hardened and starts to split. Neck sizing is recommended if you only shoot the loads in one gun, and that's what it sounds like. I like Lee's Collet dies, they squeeze the neck down onto a mandrel, and virtually eliminate case stretching, so they last even longer.
 

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Before pulling the hammer spring pull the rebounding firing pin and spring from the frame and make sure that area is clean and not gummed up from excessive lube and dust. Never had that problem with any of my 5 Encore frames (none are the Pro Hunter) and I use the Federal regular primers with with the 300 Win Mag.
 

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Before messing with the hammer spring, use an easily removed test to see if spring tension will help things.

Take two rubberbands and wrap them around the rear of the hammer to the front of the triggerguard. They should stay in place even as the gun is cocked and loaded, and add to the hammer speed and force.

Try with and without and see if the primer problems recur. If the primers are aided by the rubber bands, you now have a choice, which is to switch primers or swap out the hammer spring. I'd switch primers first under the rule of easiest fixes first.

As mentioned, make sure your resized case is within tolerances.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok these are once fired full length resized brass but from here on out they will be neck sized I got my collect die a couple weeks ago and feel pretty sure the encore is the perfect rifle to neck size. Went around today but all the shops with primer are closed I'm gonna grab some tomorrow that's gonna be my first try for a fix. Anybody got a secret recipe in their 300wm they feel like sharing ;D
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok next question is I know by adjusting the seating length it helps with accuracy so here's what I'm doing tell me if I'm right. I neck sized a brass just enough to hold the bullet then gently put it in the rifle and closed the action. Comparing this to a factory round it is quite a bit longer but this tells me where to seat it to correct it did it three or four times and it keep seating to the mark I made on the bullet . Sorry for the newbie ?s but I want everybit of accuracy this gun will give me
 

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The 300 Win Mag headspaces on the belt, however you can also use the shoulder if you choose in addition, but I doubt that neck sizing will make any difference in primer strikes unless the chamber belt area is cut extremly loose. Nothing wrong with neck sizing to decrease working the brass however.

Unfortunatly my favorite loads for the 300 Win Mag uses the discontinued Winchester Magnum Rifle powder that I stocked up on just after they discontinued it. Because that works so well I haven't had any need to use anything else.

One more thing to ask, have you experienced that ignition problem with any other barrels using those CCI primers? If so that will negate the issue to the frame rather to any loading.
 

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gman82001 said:
Comparing this to a factory round it is quite a bit longer but this tells me where to seat it to correct it did it three or four times and it keep seating to the mark I made on the bullet .
I generally do not like to seat the bullet touching the throat, rather leave a little freebore. This may or may not be an issue depending upon your load.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tom im pretty new to reloading but i have not reloaded for my 243 barrel yet to see if it would do the same. I have reloaded for my other guns in various calibers and all with cci primers not had a single dryfire yet. As to the oal what is a good gap my factory rounds measure 3.337 and the measurement i just came up with by my little expirement is 3.603 is it best to split the difference or is ther a golden rule. I just loaded the first rounds that i shot yesterday to the same length as my factory ones i had here. I really dont understand the headspacing either from belt compared to the shoulder please lead me down the right road here I dont want to kill myself ::)
 

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The 300 Win Mag uses the case belt to headspace on instead of the rim like a 30/30 or the shoulder like a 30/06. Because you can change the shoulder length by adjusting your dies you can adjust to make a tighter fit than you would get using just the belt to headspace on.

However that is the same as just using a neck sizing die to accomplish the same thing. Once the case blows out to fit your chamber just sizing the neck alone after that will give you a better chamber fit. When I load for my Encores I don't use any overall numerical cartridge measurement length, just seat to keep the bullet a little back from engaging the rifling in the throat, usually ending up with the base of the bullet at the bottom of the neck.

But getting back to your original issue, take your 243 barrel and prime some empty cases in them. Then grease your rifling on the barrel (primer residue on a clean barrel is hard to clean) and fire the empty primed only cases in it to see if you get the same ignition problems with the same primers that caused your problem, then try some others. That way you can locate the source to either the barrel or the frame. I suspect you will have the same results with the 243 barrel. If you check and clean the firing pin cavity, firing pin and rebounding spring that may be the cause of your problem.
 
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