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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello gents,

My 336 is a microgroove.
I just got me a 120 gr. Lee mold and gaschecks too. I would like to know the general (max) velocities I can use to push the gaschecked bullets out without leading the barrel. I know I would have to fine-tune the powder load afterwards.
Lee manual has loading data for up to 2500 fps. I am using IMR3031 and IMR4198.

Thanks a bunch.

Cheers,
Mad
 

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Well sir that depends on many variables. My understanding is that the bullet fit to the throat or leade is most important and you need to know for sure what your actual bore diameter is. My ballard cut 30-30 rund a little big and my MG .35 rem is .3585. In GENERAL with a gas check you can get up into that velocity range w/o leading if....

Bullet is ~ .001-.002 larger than bore dia.
You use an excellent lube.
You use a good CB compatible powder.
Most importantly holding your mouth right when you pull the trigger.

www.castboolits.gunloads.com is a real good resource for all things cast, spinning and fast.
 

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Since it's a lightweight bullet, how about developing some super accurate loads in the 1500 fps range that duplicate a .32-20? You'll find that is a very useful small game load. You will most likely discover that while 2500 fps is possible, best accuracy is at a slower velocity. Pushing cast bullets at the higher velocities often takes more load development (and knowledge) for good results. At high speeds, specific parameters must be met that are not so obvious at first glance. If you try your first attempts at more moderate speeds of 1500-2000 fps I am sure you will have success.

Appropriate powders might be SR (IMR) 4759, 2400, 5744, Unique, Red Dot, etc. for the 1500 fps speeds.

You'll probably want to start with sizing .310-.311" and seating the bullet so it just touches the lands (if possible).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you so much gents :D
I will try all suggested.

Mad
 

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Since the 70's I've been shooting the Lee 170 gr. FP GC pushed by 10 grs. of Unique. This has worked well in my old Win. 94 with peep sight. I haven't crono'd it but it gets to the 100 yd. target pretty quick.
I recently tried them in my XLR. Found out I don't have enough elevation in the rear sight to get them up to point of aim. So I guess I'll have jazz them up a little to get the impact up for that rifle. Neither rifle leads with this load.
I use the 405 gr. plain base Lee pushed by 37 grs. of H4198 in my CB and the 310 GC pushed by 40 grs. of H4198 in my 2 ea. .444P's. None lead with my bullet which is lubed with my lube consisting of 60% commode seal mixed and melted with 40% canning wax. This works as good as any lube you can buy and is cheaper too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The Happy Kaboomer said:
None lead with my bullet which is lubed with my lube consisting of 60% commode seal mixed and melted with 40% canning wax. This works as good as any lube you can buy and is cheaper too.
Hey Happy,

How do you exactly lube with this kind of mix? Do you have to melt it each time u lube? Do you tumble-lube the bullets?

Thanks so much :)

Mad
 

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I melt it in an old soup can on my casting burner. Then when I need it I pour it into the reservior on my RCBS luber sizer. It hardens in just a few minutes and I ready to lube and size. I been using it for years. I came up with it when lube sticks went beyond $1.00/stick. I also use cast 150 gr GC spire points in my Mini-30 and 30/06 garand. They work great and no leading or fouling of the gas ports. Its all I'll ever use.
 
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Try the Lee 150 and 170 FP GC molds. I've killed deer with the 170 bullet before cast from wheelweights . Also my load was probably no more then 1600FPS. I've had excellent results with SR4759 and XMP5744 in the 30-30.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks guys :)

Mad
 

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mad_rshn,

I have pushed this bullet to 2,400 f.p.s. with complete success from my 336A microgroove barrel (1977). Powder was 748 but 3031 would also work pretty well.

Alloy hardness is IMPORTANT when exceeding 1,800 f.p.s. I used linotype (21 b.h.n.) but wheel weights, heat treated (450F for 30 minutes then cooled immediately in water) would work just as well.

As 35 Remington indicated, reduced velocity loads in the 1,500 f.p.s. range are great. I use wheel weight alloy for this and based on the powders you have on hand, I would suggest 15-16 grs. of 4198. At that velocity, you could try them both with and without gas checks. You may find that they shoot just fine with out gas checks at the reducedvelocity.

For a milder load yet, I like either 5.5/231 or Green Dot; 6/Unique; 6.5 Trail Boss; or 7/Blue Dot for 1,200 f.p.s. No gas checks are required at this velocity.

Have fun.
w30wcf
 

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I'm not sure you can seat that bullet out far enough to engage the rifling. Bullet should be sized to at least .310", and should be reasonably hard. Wheel weight metal as is should be fine for midrange loads in the 1500-1800 FPS range. If you should decide to heat treat and water drop the bullets, size them without lubing first, then heat trat and water drop. The lube the bullets with a sizing die larger than what you sized the bullets too. For example, if you sized to .310", lube with a .311" die. Have the gas checks seated before heat treating. Seems to work OK. If you want to apply them after heat treating during the lubing, then anneal the gas checks as they'll be a lot easier to apply and there will be less chance of damaging the hardened bullets.
Paul B.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks, Paul :)

Cheers,
Mad
 
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