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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Bought an E prefix 336 in .30-30. Never had a 336 before. I really like it way more than I thought I would.

Has a problem though. About once out of 7 shots it missfires. Puts a little dent on the primer, I recock and it always fires the second time.

Could someone fill me in on what I hear about this 2 piece firing pin. Say after I work the action and then use my finger to push on the firing pin part that the hammer hits it kinda clicks when I push in on it. Is this normal?????????? Is there such a thing as a ONE piece fireing pin that I should get and install????????

Is "BALLARD" rifling on these pre microgroove barrels any better than the "BALLARD" rifling on the Marlin rifles now??? Any advantages other than having no cross bolt safety on this 1948 vintage rifle. I REALLY HAVE A SOFT SPOT FOR THIS 336 I BROUGHT HOME!!!!!!!!! It shoots so good I'm going to give it a whirl at the March silhouette match.

Could any of you fill me in on my questions and your experiences with the 336. It feeds SO much smoother than that 1895 Cowboy I had that it's not even funny.

Geoff
 

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Congratulations Geoff!
That two piece firing pin can have a little hitch in it, if it gets dirt in the firing pin hole, inside the bolt. Be sure to clean the bolt assembly well, and check the spring that pushes the rear half of the firing pin out of battery. If it breaks, it can hang up, and cause the rear half to not move forward cleanly.
They do make a one piece firing pin, but there's nothing wrong with the two piece if it's working correctly.
In my opinion the new Ballard style rifling is not the same as the early Ballard rifling used in all the pre 1956 Marlin centerfire rifles. I'm not sure that the new guns wont shoot as well, but I know the old ones shot great!
Take that 336 apart, and clean it thoroughly, especially the bolt and firing pin.
Good luck, and let us know what you find.
Vall
 
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marlinman93 said:
Congratulations Geoff!

In my opinion the new Ballard style rifling is not the same as the early Ballard rifling used in all the pre 1956 Marlin centerfire rifles. I'm not sure that the new guns wont shoot as well, but I know the old ones shot great!

Good luck, and let us know what you find.
Vall
You know I thought it was all in my head , but I swear it seems like my older ones with cast loads shoot a bit better then the new Cowboys with cast loads :!: I'm glad to here you say this :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the help and info guys!

OK, I'll admit I am NO gunsmith. I took the bolt out today but couldn't figure out how to disassemble the firing pin apparatus. There is a pin that looks like it has to be driven out before I can check to see if the spring is broken. But after limited trying I quit fearing that maybe it was a tapered pin and I would check with you all to see which direction it should be driven out. SO, WHAT IS THE BEST WAY TO DISASSEMBLE THE FIRING PIN MECHANISM?????????

I sure appreciate the info guys, as usual mm93 I'm in debt to you. Sure like this little carbine, it shoots like a RIFLE! If you ever happen onto a 26" model 1893 that might not be quite good enough for your collection but certainly good enough for me to shoot let me know will you please! Chambering in .30-30 would be great for the silhouette game. I'd love to have a crack at beating the local champion who shoots an old Winchester 1894 26".

Geoff
 

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It will be simpler to drive the pins out, if you take a piece of hardwood, and drill a hole in it a little larger than the pin. Then situate the bolt so the pin is over the hole, and drive it either way. I find it's easier to drive them down, and the hole will work to catch the pin, and support the bolt as you tap it out.
There are actually two pins; one for the front half, and one for the back. The flat spring is in the rear half, but as long as you're working on it, might as well take both out, and clean the inside of the bolt too.
Don't lose the spring, when you pull the rear half. Keep the bolt over a towel, so the spring will land and not bounce into the lost world! :wink:
 

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The old guns have two notches on the lower tang for two different hammer spring settings. If you take off the buttstock look at the metal plate the hammer spring contacts. this metal plate slides in a groove and there are two grooves. slide it in the forward groove and your problem will be solved. the hammer will be a little harder to pull back and the trigger will be a little stiffer but it should solve your mis-fire problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wyatt,

Sure appreciate the info. I had no idea that there were 2 settings for hammer spring stiffness. Thats what is so great about Marlin Owners, the sharing of information.

I shot this particular carbine in the match last Saturday and shot a 33/40. Match winner was up at 36/40 and the guy I shot with got a 35/40. Good shooters around here but I was very happy with the 33. A 33 is pretty good for a 20" carbine. Sent the 336 home with a buddy from the shooting match. He called me back last night and has the problem fixed along with a trigger job. He said when the lever was closed the 2 pieces were not quite lining up. Looking forward to getting it back. It made me look kindof bad a couple of times at the match when it misfired and it showed my ever present FLINCH. Didn't quite give me whip lash but came close!!!


mm93,

Should have gotten back to you sooner. Thanks for taking time to give me some suggestions. I had the opportunity to have my buddy fix it who is REALLY good at gun mechanic-ing!

Thanks again all,

Geoff
 

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Geoff,
How did he fix it? I am curious.

I have a 1948 336 also. I also had the same problem you cite. The second spring groove did not correct the situation. I disassembled the bolt, cleaned it up and found no broken parts to replace. Then I reassembled the bolt and the problem was still occuring.

So I sent the gun to Marlin thinking they would make it right. Received the gun back (poorly packaged btw) with a cursory note saying the gun was “obsolete” and cannot be repaired.

So, I bought a one piece firing pin and never had the problem again.

My thinking is the bolt lock was not engaging the bolt tightly enough to make the two piece pin work as designed. This is just my educated guess though; I never bothered to investigate any further.

If you decide to get the one piece pin you can buy them here.

http://www.longhunt.com/action_work/action_work.shtml#m95
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oldwolf,

Thanks for your input! I have been pretty darn busy lately, spring work is breaking loose so I haven't been up to my buddies to pick that 336 up. When I pick it up he will probably SHOW me what he did as I did not follow it totally verbally on the phone. Great to know where I can get 1 piece fireing pins also if this fails to fix the problem. Hope you like your old 336 as much as I like mine. I mistakenly dismissed them for years as not in my line of thinking. Then I stumbled onto this one, I like it cuz it's fairly old and I got a smoking deal on it. I figured if I didn't like it I could easy get my money back out of it. Now I'm so in love with it it'll be my 1956 vintage Winchester 94 carbine that I'll sell. I will update you when I get more informed.

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oldwolf,

My Win 94 is one I'm still working on. One of the really knowledgeable shooters around here, in fact he was a national champ in pistols back in the 80's had this carbine. I wanted a Marbles tang site on my 94 and this man puts a lot of them on so I called him. He said he was about ready to trade his 20" in on a 26" octagon so I could give him my pre 64 Win 94 which was a bit rough but very funtional and $100 and I could take his 94 which is in EXCELLENT shape for a 1956 gun and already had a Marbles tang site on it. So I took the deal. He is a pretty darn good buddy. What happens is that it shoots fine with factory loads but for some reason with my lighter loads for silhouette using XMP5744 and SR4759 after I fire a round the brass sticks in the chamber as if there is HIGH pressure instead of the LOW pressure that should be there! Primers look like it is indeed low pressure. X5744 I actually saw dent in the cases as if there is unburned powder left in the chamber. So I'm still trying to sort all of this out though. Gun shoots exceedingly well though just a little too light at the muzzel to hold steady enough to be competitive. Nice for carrying though. The trigger my buddy had on it is out of this world, nicest trigger I've ever seen on a lever gun. Might wait to sell since I have a 13 yr old son might want to use it. Any thoughts on my sticky extraction problem anyone??????????? It displays same tendency even when it is clean clean clean.

Geoff
 

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Geoff-
Are you neck sizing or full case sizing?

Do you trim your cases to minimum OL?

Have you cleaned the chamber with a bronze brush? (not likely the problem though-but possible)

I've read that low pressure loads can cause the primers to set back - not sure how this would cause sticking though.

Is the extractor in good shape?

Is the sticking common to all brand cases?

Brad
 

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Oldwolf said:
Geoff,
How did he fix it? I am curious.

I have a 1948 336 also. I also had the same problem you cite. The second spring groove did not correct the situation. I disassembled the bolt, cleaned it up and found no broken parts to replace. Then I reassembled the bolt and the problem was still occuring.

So I sent the gun to Marlin thinking they would make it right. Received the gun back (poorly packaged btw) with a cursory note saying the gun was “obsolete” and cannot be repaired.

So, I bought a one piece firing pin and never had the problem again.

My thinking is the bolt lock was not engaging the bolt tightly enough to make the two piece pin work as designed. This is just my educated guess though; I never bothered to investigate any further.

If you decide to get the one piece pin you can buy them here.

http://www.longhunt.com/action_work/action_work.shtml#m95
I did the exact same thing with a pin from longhunt too. I put it in temporary so I could shoot till I figured it out. :lol: Someday.
I thought it was the locking bolt & got a new one. The new one was thinner & so unshootable but with it in there the pin could hold the hammer up just like the original so I dont think like that anymore. I tried new 336 parts too. My guns a 1955 & I dont think its got a second spring cut but it might.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oldwolf,

Good thoughts!

1) Yes, I full length size.

2) I thought case length was the problem too as my cases had been loaded 8 times and they were getting a little long. So I painstakingly trimmed 100 cases and that is not my favorite job but I did it. Same exact problem.

3) The chamber is really clean.

4) Next up I will load up some .30-30's with IMR 3031 or something and see if more normal loads will work in the correct trimmed cases. The only other thing I can think of is that maybe the the bolt lockup has some edge or burr on it that upon firing the bolt might set back where it binds somehow. Since I lean toward Marlins I just blame the whole problem on WINCHESTER!! Just joking of course.

Thanks for your help,

Geoff
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
By the way Leverdude,

Does the one piece fireing pin work just fine???? Any down side to going this route????

Geoff
 
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