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Hello folks....I have a new Remlin and wondering what ammo to break it in? Thanks
 

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El Kabong
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170gr FN Ranchdog mold, made of wheel weights,
loaded with 25gr IMR4895


Being its a Remlin, it will either break it in.....

Or break it
 

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Try a box or two from several manufacturers, maybe try different bullet weights and see if you can narrow it down.

I used to buy a bulk box of the cheap stuff, just to get a feel for it (and because it was cheap)...

Maybe go for the slightly better stuff. Better powder that burns cleaner, and less variation between rounds (I had some Sellier & Bellot that was so dirty it shot sparks out of my 1894cp).

If you hand load, you can refine the idea way past that point.

Your rifle is gonna prefer one or two types over the other ones, totally normal. Nobody knows what it is, so have fun tryin'!

For what it's worth, the cp loves Remington UMC 125 gr JSP. Pretty cheap place to start (at least it was when I bought it).

Good luck!

Brocky
 

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My go-to plinking rounds are American Eagle (Federal) .38 spl. 158 gr. LRNs, and American Eagle .357 mag. 158 gr. JSP. These are relatively cheap, and while aren't the cleanest, aren't extremely dirty in my experience. Pretty much standard stuff that give adequate results from my 1894c.
 

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It's been a few years since I bought any Georgia Arms ammo, but the few times I have, it's been good ammo, and I wouldn't hesitate to buy from them again in the future.

Luis
 
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Jacketed bullets will smooth out the bore WAY faster than lead, I'd enjoy pumping about 500 rounds through it and try assorted loads, to let it tell you what it likes. Mine likes 158-grain bullets from Hornady and Remington at about 1750 fps, it doesn't seems to care for any other loads. Bullets up to 180 grains seems to do the best, the lowest bullet weight I'd bother with is 140 grains.
 

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stuff that goes bang when ya pull the trigger is usually good....
Agree w/ this. It's not like we're talking about a benchrest rifle where you want to follow proper barrel break in procedure. Mine has never seen a single jacketed bullet. Started w/ lead reloads and it's been fed a steady diet ever since. Mine shoots everything from 125-170 grain just fine.
 

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Has anyone tried .357 ammo from Georgia Arms? I was considering it myself.
I've used it fairly often. With good results. My favorite is their Deerstopper load. 158 grain JHP loaded to the gills. Good stuff. Very accurate in my 92 clone.
 

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Hello folks....I have a new Remlin and wondering what ammo to break it in? Thanks

Welcome to the forum.
I'd say with the ammo crunch going on now, whatever you can find?
If you handload it's a bit better, but components are still a bit iffy in places.
Good luck, please give us a range report when you get to it.
 

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Way back when I still bought ammo, and it was cheap, I used a lot of Sellier & Bellot 158gr SJSP. It is fairly fast and was very accurate in my 1894C. Back then it went for about $8/bx. I tried lighter than 158gr once and never went back. Mine and a lot of other folks' 1894C's don't really care for lighter bullets. Anyway, the 125gr jacketed bullets are really handgun 357 rounds.

Both Federal 180HC and Remington 180SJHP made for great deer hunting rounds and they hit the same POI as the 158SJSP S&B practice rounds out to 100 yards. My wife put three does in the freezer with those rounds.
 

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My 1979 1894c shoots about anything I've fed it rite well. 148 gr Magtech .357, Federal red box 158 gr .38 special, Federal 158 gr, .357, are all real accurate. But the other day I picked up a box of plain ol white box Winchester 130 grain .38 special flat points, man o man. Touching the holes off handed was pretty common. Plus those 130 grain .38's zip along pretty good too.

That said, there wasn't enough difference between the heavy stuff or the little 130's to really matter. Any of them were MOS (minute of squirrel).
 

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Welcome,

Store bought 357 mag would recommend 158gr SJSP, most producers load to about the same velocity and as mentioned earlier will help smooth the bore quicker. I made the mistake of being in a hurry to shoot and bought both lead and jacketed the same day and shot them all (200 rounds in less than 2 hours and warmed the barrel nicely).

Needless to say, spent many hours cleaning lead out of the barrel, as was new and a bit rough in spots (I was new to lever guns also). Most of the cheaper lead loads are not really loaded ideally for velocity in a Marlin as are meant for cowboy action pistols.

Some lead loads, like Buffalo Bore and others made specifically for hunting, will work well in a rifle and I would expect minimal leading. Though costly for plinking.

Main thing though is have FUN, most anything can be fixed or tweaked and learning is half the adventure. BTW reloading is also fun and you get to shoot more.
 

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I shoot whatever pistol ammo is at hand, but what works best in my rifle is Beartooth"s 180gr. WLNGC in a .38 case with enough 2400 to give me 1450 to 1500 fps.

This is a long bullet and you need the shorter case to stay within an OAL of 1.590. This is a light magnum load and very accurate. I've never experienced any carbon ring or any such thing in many hundreds of rounds.
 

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I shoot whatever pistol ammo is at hand, but what works best in my rifle is Beartooth"s 180gr. WLNGC in a .38 case with enough 2400 to give me 1450 to 1500 fps.

This is a long bullet and you need the shorter case to stay within an OAL of 1.590. This is a light magnum load and very accurate. I've never experienced any carbon ring or any such thing in many hundreds of rounds.
Wow good info, thanks for sharing it.

That reminds me of those Aguila Sniper Subsonic .22LR rounds that have a 60 gr. lead projectile sitting in a .22 short case. My pistol cycles those flawlessly and they thump coconuts, canned corn and cats with equal authority.

Can't remember if I ran any through the 39A, though I imagine they would make it out the barrel OK...
 

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For plinking I usually shoot UMC 130Gr 38 FMJs. I bought a bunch when they were on sale. I load my 357s, more to make noise since I don't hunt anymore. I find the 1894C, that lives here, will shoot just about anything with acceptable accuracy. I don't get to shoot it as much as before I got married, I am very fortunate to have a wife that likes to shoot. It is hers now and I get to shoot it once in a while, feed and clean it! Not to worry, I have an 1894 44 Mag she got me as a consolation prize.
FM
 

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With my 1894, it's been my experience that different brands of cartridges will group a little tighter, or looser, with the gun telling you what it likes. You should probably only try brands/loads that you think will be available to you in the future. The other factor is that once you've got your sights adjusted for that ammo, you don't want to vary the power much, or you'll have to adjust the sights again. You own the most versatile and funnest rifle ever!!!!!
 

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The most important part of barrel break-in is shooting over clean,lightly oiled steel. No matter what you choose to shoot,clean the rifle thoroughly afterwards,be sure to get all the lead and copper fouling out completely.and oil the bore a little. The next rounds fired will burnish the barrel interior better than if running over old fouling.
I traded into a Remlin last Winter and am determined to run 10,000 rounds through it in 2 years to see if it holds up. So far,so good. I've got about 4,000 rounds shot in less than 10 months,and the barrel is smoothing out very nicely. I shoot reloads only,cast,jacketed,and plated. My JM Marlin has over 10,000 rounds through it,and the bore looks like a mirror. She's a Stainless 2008,and the rifling was a little rough when new.
It's the cleaning regimen,and shooting about 3,000 rounds that starts to break in a good Marlin barrel. You'll never shoot one out with proper care. Best of luck with your new rifle.

Rob
 
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