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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wood

Wood

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Is a the varnish on this 1893 original? I lean towards no, despite previous owner stating yes. It also seems the forearm and stock do not match? If not original I will refinish...if original I will leave it.
Many thanks. Pappy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
For the barrel band at the muzzle or around the forearm? Does it need to cover the end of wood, seems like most do, but some pics show open wood after the band.

What do you folks think about shaping this forearm down to the thinner version? Are there specs for such? The wood is clearly old and may blend better than modern reproduction.

Looking further at more images perhaps all 1893's have the end cap and no further bands. Does this suggest the barrel is not original as the screw threads for attaching the cap on the outer barrel would be different. Not sure about this.
 

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The barrel band at the muzzle or around the forearm? Does it need to cover the end of wood, seems like most do, but some pics show open wood after the band.

What do you folks think about shaping this forearm down to the thinner version? Are there specs for such? The wood is clearly old and may blend better than modern reproduction.
the carbine will have one.. the stock long barrel will have a cap.. as far as shaping?? if there is no dovetail UNDER the barrel for the forend cap, you have a carbine and needs a band...have you taken it apart to see if they buggered up the barrel under the forend???

carbine band screws are set at 7" from the receiver, 336's are at 8" +.. somethin tells me, look at the bottom of the barrel under the forend...


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So it is clearly a carbine with full magazine tube. No threads under barrel, only perpendicular slots cut for the band screws. Barrel blueing looks great. In fact other than the forearm she is a decent 2176xx.
So back to my problem...getting a proper forearm for a carbine. Since 1893 carbines exist then perhaps this perch belly could be gutted (shaped down)? The band would stay where it is.
 

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I agree with others, there is plenty of wood to reshape it into a more correct shape if the person shaping it has the ability. then of course the finish would not match the butt stock, and might look more off key than leaving it alone.

Or ya do both, and then the next wise acre collector complains about it as much as they rag about the later fore end.

Such guns put a guy between a rock and a hard place thinking about what to do.

I once had a very honest 1894 in 25 20. A near perfect bore, A typical silver brown gun, with quite a bit of blue and hints of case, but someone had stripped to the bare metal, ONE side of the action with about 240 paper. I drove myself nuts trying to decide what to do, recolor only the receiver completely? Wyoming Armory allowed they could do a dark color, or attempt to funk up the shiny side with plum brown? Blotch it up with heat and cold blue to make it look a small bit better?

I talked to a couple of other ethical metal guys, they could not agree either. it sure like like heck the way it was. Some guys would have parted it out, and made profit. I finally found a guy that bought it for what I paid for it, (400) and he even mentioned the gun just the other day.:biggrin:
I guess considering the quality compared to some Rossi or Remlin, as a shooter, the buggered up receiver is not a deal breaker.
 
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So it is clearly a carbine with full magazine tube. No threads under barrel, only perpendicular slots cut for the band screws. Barrel blueing looks great. In fact other than the forearm she is a decent 2176xx.
So back to my problem...getting a proper forearm for a carbine. Since 1893 carbines exist then perhaps this perch belly could be gutted (shaped down)? The band would stay where it is.

WHOA!!!!!.. the barrel is ( black ) blued??? new barrel, new tube and new wood.. Now we are talking non-collectible, possible bomb.. Does it say 336 any where on that barrel??? need pics please
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
MM93,
I think you are on to something...8+" from receiver to band screw suggesting a 336. However the top of the barrel is stamped 30 - 30 where it meets the receiver. Is this ever on 336's? Sword Metal
 
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