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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A friend of mine has just bought a 10/22 and the trigger is bloody awful. :shock:
Any tips/tricks to lighten it up a bit would be welcome.
:lol:
 

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you can replace the hammer and then go to Rimfire Central and look on their tips and tricks and do the JB weld for the creep.

The hammer is around $40 dollars


http://www.volquartsen.com/product.asp?pid=49

Or you can look on the same volquartsen web site and replace the hammer and the sear for I beleive around $80

The hammer alone does a great job.
 

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I just told Tony Blair about Tenent haveing a gun and he told me I will be Knighted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks TyCobb. Is there a British equivalent of JB weld?

Wizard, I’ll just tell Tony (frikkin) Blair that I’m a Libyan and he will let me have all the guns I want.
:roll: :roll: :roll:
 

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Tenex,who would you like as Primeminister?
 

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if i was English i would support that man also. In England what are yalls gun laws and how restrictive are they? Thanks. BEN
 

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Getting back to the 10/22 trigger. Most of them are pretty bad but they are quite easy to work on. I have done a few now and I can usually get the weight down to under 3 pounds with no creep or backlash.

The first thing is to strip the action and polish the hammer and sear engagement surfaces with a fine stone or emery cloth. Be careful not to change any angles at this stage. Very often this will give a big improvement as the surfaces are quite rough to start with.

To reduce creep you will have to reduce the sear engagement. Ruger now put a hole in the side of the trigger housing so that you can see this. The front of the hammer just above the notch needs to be stoned down. Take it slowly and reassemble and check regularly.

Backlash can be almost eliminated by fitting an extended trigger plunger. I've never seen one on the market so you will have to make one up yourself. Luckily this is fairly simple using an electric drill and a file. Remove the trigger plunger and have a look at it. There is a thin part which the return spring goes on to and a thick part which bears on the rear of the trigger. Make a new one with the thin part 0.400" long and the thick part 0.230". A 4mm welding rod is ideal but it should be possible to find a nail or something of the correct diameter. These dimensions will make it too long so you will have to reduce the length slowly until the hammer will just release. By making the thick part shorter than the original, some of the spring tension will be relieved which will lighten the trigger weight.

If the trigger is still too heavy then the angle of the hammer notch will have to be reduced. Again this is not difficult but is dangerous if you get it wrong. Anyone doing this does so entirely at their own risk. If you don't feel confident enough to do this then buy a target hammer from South Yorkshire Shooting supplies.

The trigger and sear can be tricky to get back into the frame so I suggest making up an assembly pin. This is just a 1/8" pin 7/16" long. It is used to hold the trigger, sear and disconnector together so that they can be positioned in the main housing. When they are in position, push in the trigger pivot pin and the assembly pin will be pushed out the other side. It saves a lot of fiddling, trying to get all the holes lined up.

Hope this is useful, let me know how you get on.
 

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Tenex

I'm not sure if there is another brand but its what is used for making a "Cold Weld". you might try a automotive parts place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK thanks for all your replies. :)
 

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One other thing that you can do to lighten the trigger is to lighten the mainspring. I haven't tried this myself so I don't know how far you can go. If you attempt this it might be a good idea to have a spare spring standing by.
 
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