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  1. #21
    Sidewinder
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    Quote Originally Posted by OLSKOOL View Post
    I am my own gunsmith and do a lot of things but cutting a stock is not one of them. I have a friend who is a real smith, he dose a lot of pads, you don't just cut the stock and screw it on, the pad has to be grown to fit the wood,,,,,,,,,,
    Got a link?

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidBigWest View Post
    Why not just buy a 336y stock?
    Good idea, I considered it but I've been told that current butt stocks aren't a direct fit on older rifles, mine's from 1950, which would just have me doing different woodwork that I don't know how to do.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moto Vita View Post
    Good idea, I considered it but I've been told that current butt stocks aren't a direct fit on older rifles, mine's from 1950, which would just have me doing different woodwork that I don't know how to do.
    With a new stock, it would be pretty straight forward to rough out the tight spots, then glass bed the channel to fit. It will then fit better than a smith could custom inlet the stock.
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  5. #24
    Site Contributor & Team 444 Co-Captain Super Moderator
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    Why not just replace the butt pad with the new one? I replaced the butt pad on my .444, given the original is about 3/8" and the new pad was near 3/4", overall I gained 3/8" and to be honest....I have no issues shouldering that cannon!
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  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moto Vita View Post
    Got a link?
    I have a phone number. 843 571 7972 the name of the shop is Carolina rod and gun. the smith there is terry Langdale. they are in Charleston SC I am sure you can send him the stock. http://carolinarodandgun.net/
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  7. #26
    Gun Wizard
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    Those I've cut, I've done with a bandsaw. Wood, plastic, or fiberglass.

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  8. #27
    Sidewinder
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    Follow up.
    I cut the stock with a Ryobi miter/chop saw, using tape as suggested. I had to use multiple layers of tape on the stock to level it so the cut would be parallel and adjust the turntable about 1 degree to align the rear surface of the stock with the blade. it worked great. I haven't fit the recoil pad yet as I have to use a friends sander when I can get up to see him.
    Thanks for all the help.

  9. #28
    Gun Wizard
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    I scratch build black powder rifles. Absolute rule: power tools are forbidden. We tells this to new guys thinking of using a dremel tool for inletting locks or other work like this. I would never put a finished stock on a table saw. I would use a Japanese pull saw and cut it proud, then gently work it into place.

  10. #29
    Tenderfoot
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    One suggestion I will make, before you screw the butt pad on, make sure it is flat. Might need to do a little sanding, I always do this as a matter of practice. If it is not flat, it will crack sooner or later and you'll have to do it all over again.

    These guys have given you a lot of good advice. When you get ready to sand the pad down to meet the stock with your belt sander, wrap some masking tape on the stock and go slow using maybe 120-180 grit. Putting a pad on a finished and getting a flush fit is very difficult. However, when you get it down close, take an exacto knife and make a cut on the pad's base around the stock. take the pad off, rub some chalk into the cut so you can see it well and belt sand it down to your mark. Be especially careful to extend the stocks line at the toe on down thru the pad to get the proper look.
    Phil


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