NRA Endowment Life Member, SASS, OGCA, NC Watermen United
“If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.” -- George Orwell
"Corruptissima in republica plurimae leges."--Tacitus
The more numerous the laws, the more corrupt the government.
Why not just replace the butt pad with the new one? I replaced the butt pad on my .444, given the original is about 3/8" and the new pad was near 3/4", overall I gained 3/8" and to be honest....I have no issues shouldering that cannon!
Team 444 Co-Captain
Member #168 1994 444SS
"The only chance you get to do it right....is the first time."
There are Rules...Read Them!! CYA.....Cover your ass!
I have never harvested an animal but I have KILLED QUITE A FEW !
everybody has a plan until they get hit in the mouth,,mike Tyson,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Those I've cut, I've done with a bandsaw. Wood, plastic, or fiberglass.
Speak softly, but ride like hell!"
I cut the stock with a Ryobi miter/chop saw, using tape as suggested. I had to use multiple layers of tape on the stock to level it so the cut would be parallel and adjust the turntable about 1 degree to align the rear surface of the stock with the blade. it worked great. I haven't fit the recoil pad yet as I have to use a friends sander when I can get up to see him.
Thanks for all the help.
I scratch build black powder rifles. Absolute rule: power tools are forbidden. We tells this to new guys thinking of using a dremel tool for inletting locks or other work like this. I would never put a finished stock on a table saw. I would use a Japanese pull saw and cut it proud, then gently work it into place.
One suggestion I will make, before you screw the butt pad on, make sure it is flat. Might need to do a little sanding, I always do this as a matter of practice. If it is not flat, it will crack sooner or later and you'll have to do it all over again.
These guys have given you a lot of good advice. When you get ready to sand the pad down to meet the stock with your belt sander, wrap some masking tape on the stock and go slow using maybe 120-180 grit. Putting a pad on a finished and getting a flush fit is very difficult. However, when you get it down close, take an exacto knife and make a cut on the pad's base around the stock. take the pad off, rub some chalk into the cut so you can see it well and belt sand it down to your mark. Be especially careful to extend the stocks line at the toe on down thru the pad to get the proper look.