I copied this over here for folks wanting to do a similar conversion.
Thanks Dave for the contribution.

Mr fixit wrote;
I had plans to take the 30TK and change it to a pistol grip, but after seeing how one of the guys was going about doing his conversion into a straight grip I think I can do this easier. I've got a nice walnut pistol grip and forearm from Leverdude a while back and now I think I have found a permanent home for it, had it on the 336W (Sweet Betty Lou ) for about a year, but decided to put the birch stock back on and leave her original. So going out to you fellas that have done conversions, anyone see any problems I should be aware of? Thanks, Mr fixit

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Spent the last 3 1/2 hrs doing a job to the walnut stock and forearm reworking them to fit. Hope you guys enjoy them, I still have to do final prep and check it all over once more, then to the finish.
measuring for size

Witness marks on forearm

The cut

Trimming the receiver end to fit, hand tools used were 1/2 chisel, 4 in 1 wood file, 120 grit sandpaper

Ran into a problem with photobucket, for some reason not all the pics loaded, I'll fix that tomorrow and post the rest, the stock and forearm are pretty much shaped and ready to go, it's late and I've got to hit the sack..til tomorrow! Mr fixit

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comparing forearms

need to whittle it down a tad still

getting close

checking the fit

on to the stock, as typical, I drew a line front to back and used the radial arm saw to cut it on the heavy side

roughed to a general shape with the course rasp file of the 4 in 1 file

eye balling the general shape

Pretty much what I was looking for!

a close up of the forearm, beveled the leading edge then rounded it off with sandpaper.

Now before I go any further with this project, any tips, if I can I'm going to try and get that part I cut off the stock a little more in line with the straight part of the stock, seems to be a belly in there still. Hope you guys like 'em! ONE MORE! Mr fixit

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Gave it a once over with 220 grit sandpaper very lightly, for those of you that don't know, Walnut is a classified hardwood but is soft and easy to work, it don't take a lot of sanding to get you in trouble quickly by sanding off too much. This stock may have been reworked at some time in the past, I don't know, but the tangs stood proud when I had it on the 336 also. So after sanding I gave it a generous coat of Min Wax Mahogany stain, let it sit for about a minute then gently wiped off the excess while watching for color differences, we all want a uniform and matching set when we're done...Right?? Tomorrow I'll start the top coats and I have decided poly urathane, burnished between coats, should be smoother than a baby back side, I like a satin finish but may opt to go with a shiny finish, we'll just have to cross that bridge when I get to it.

TO add: Thanks Halwg for the compliment and Mr peace, No I'm not a gunsmith but a woodworker of many years, I just don't have the place to really build some of the things I've wanted to though Mr fixit

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I'm holding a tack rag there which is what I used to wipe down the stock and will use it after I burnish the coats after they dry, if you don't have one get one, it gets ALL the little things that'll ruin your finish.

Ist coat of poly urathane on the forearm and stock, now It's waiting time for it to dry, cool in the basement so I don't expect to get at this again until tomorrow. Mr fixit

4/018/09 6:42 A.M.-----I guess the forearm stock didn't appeal to Photobucket for some reason, sent them an email asking WHY? added it back into the thread through our upload feature. Mr fixit

Photobucket regrets the error and has put the pic back in the post!
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Almost four hours later, I now have the second coat applied. Cheated a little as I set the parts down in front of a portable heater about 2 feet away on low heat, it would kick in for a few minutes then turn off until the room got cool enough to turn the heater back on, worked pretty good providing a slower set up time. Ok, so what I did was take some 0000 steel wool and lightly went over everything with the grain constantly looking at the first coat of urathane, what I wanted was to remove all the shine and any imperfections from the first coat. Followed that by using the air compressor to get rid of any excess particles, then the tack rag, at first it'll feel like it's really dragging but as you go the finish starts to burnish out and starts to bring up a satin shine. Light pressure and awareness to the finish is the key here, you don't want to rub through the first and very thin coat. These three pics will give you an idea of the finish I'm going for, nice but it'll be deeper. That last one is the second fresh coat which will be addressed in the same manner tomorrow.

See that semi circle toward the bottom right? It's the reflection off the canning lid you see.

Second fresh coat here.

A few more coats and then I guess it'll be time to put it back together. Mr fixit

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Here's the stock after two coats of poly and burnished out, she's really starting to take on a sheen, another coat and I think either some lemon oil furniture polish or wax and it'll be done. Mr fixit
This one taken with no flash

With flash

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This got rather long, but I hope you all have enjoyed the thread, have a thin coat of wax on it now and will probably add a couple more over time. I'm a happy camper!! Mr fixit

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What it was when I bought it.

My miserable attempt to refinish birch.

A pride restored.

Mr fixit