Oh boy! Can't wait to see it!
Picked up my donor rifle Saturday and pulled it all apart. Will order the 357 1894 barrel As soon as my 35 rem project is completed. So hope to start this one after deer season in January.
Oh boy! Can't wait to see it!
Team Old Pharts, Team Marlin Express, Team 30-30, Team 45-70, Team 60, Team Henry, Team Semi-Auto, Marlin League, Team Glenfield
Symptoms of Marlinitis
Team 444 #741
Team 30-30 #1338
Team 303 #40
Team 60 #422
Team wheelguns #101
Can't help myself. I just ordered the 357 mag barrel and a 357 magazine tube. Should be here in a couple of days.
I'm tagging ths one to see how it goes. It should be very interesting.
Marlin 1894C 357 Magnum
Marlin 1894 44 Magnum (x2)
Marlin 336 35 Rem.
Marlin 1895GS 45-70
I have never done a Marlin only Win 94s to 38/55 from 30/30s. Is the barrel going to be a simple screw in after chamber is reamed for 357max?
Never trust a man who rents pigs : Gus, Lonesome Dove
The barrel, mag tube and reamer all arrived in mail today. I threaded the barrel onto the receiver and it indexes to the dovetail cuts almost exactly. I only have it in hand tight so I imagine a little torque with the action wrench and I will have threaded on exactly where I need it to be. I was going to ream it up to max this evening, but I am running out of steam tonight. A job you do not want to do tired. So I will probably get started on that tomorrow evening.
The bolt is nearly completely closed. So I will have to figure out what to alter to get that to close completely. It is not much to alter so I will need to go slow and check the fit often.
I ordered a 357 1894 SS mag tube. It fit perfectly inside the 30-30 mag tube. So now all I need to do is modify the length of the original and sleeve it with the 357 mag tube and order a new follower and mag spring. This will also all me to use the same forend. I am going to convert it to an end cap and try and do something with that gash in the wood. Other than that blemish the furniture is real good shape.
I cut the 357 mag chamber last night to 357 max.
I put the barrel in a padded vice. I am using two pieces of well used cowhide to keep from scratching up the barrel. Here is a pic of the max case in the uncut chamber. Note the barrel already has the rim cut for the 357 mag so I can adjust the throat and depth of cut of the chamber to my liking. Whatever you do do not cut the chamber deep enough for the reamer to start cutting on the rim recess. This starts to mess with your headspace and can create all sorts of problems.
and then used a solid pilot 357 max rifle reamer to deepen the chamber and cut the throat.
I took my time. I tuned only in one direction. Clockwise. I would count 20 turns. Remove the reamer. Clean chips. Run an oil soaked cleaning patch down the barrel pushing out debris. Set reamer back in the chamber. Reapply cutting oil. Lots of oil. Rinse and repeat until the Cartridge sat flush in the rim recess. I used a combination of a t-handle and a nut driver to work the reamer. I made every effort to keep pressure with either straight down as close to the center of bore as possible so I would not cut an egg shaped chamber. I will not know how successful I was until I get to shoot it and see the fired brass. From visual observation it looks good. Time will tell.
I then made a dummy round of the biggest baddest max cartridge I have and made sure it dropped in the chamber to make sure the throat I cut was generous enough to accept the bullet seating depth. I sharpied the bullet black to detect rub marks to see that I was not jamming into the lands. My 357 maxis go hunting so I like the big and heavies. I use bullets that start at 150 gr and go up to 210 gr.
After I was satisfied with my cutting I chucked up a new cleaning brush in my drill and wrapped a cleaning pad around it with brown polishing compound. I then ran a couple of said pads in the chamber and throat area to polish out the freshly cut chamber. The brass drops in and out with ease so It should be good to go.
I then put the barrel back in my barrel vice and threaded it back on the receiver. I used a set of bubble levels to level the dovetail cuts on the barrel to the top of the receiver to properly index the barrel. I fit the bolt back in and I still have some work to do to get the bolt to fully close on the new barrel. So that is where I stopped. Up next bolt to barrel extension fitting and checking headspace.
Worked on this project some more last night after work. I worked on the Barrel to bolt face fitting. I think this is the most crucial aspect of the project. Then getting it to feed. Safety first. Headspace is everything. I can live with a safe shooting single shot should the feed issues get the better of me, but I can't tolerate a case bulging or primer popping single shot. Anyway here is what I did.
Sorry for the blurryness of some of the pictures. Try as I might my phone computer cam just was not up to snuff.
I worked the bolt in the action with the barrel in place letting it tap the barrel extension until it formed a wear mark on the blueing. This told me where the bolt was contacting and roughly how much material to remove.
I used a diamond wheel bit from harbor freight that roughly matched the circumference of the extension to get as clean a material removal as possible. I put the barrel in the barrel vice to keep from moving and used my dremel with low speed and as steady pressure as possible keeping the bit as parallel to the chamber mouth as possible.
I want the bolt face to enclose the cartridge and butt right up to the bottom of a seated case or as close to that as I can get. I am talking less than a .010 gap is preferred in my mind. Now I know all 38/357 mag and 357 max rim thicknesses are not created equal so you have to have some gap there to accommodate for those variations. So with that in mind and with no direct and easy way for me to measure that gap I decided to measure the gap from the bottom lip of the bolt face and frame with feeler guages and use that as a rough guide to see how deep I was going on the extension because the more I dremel the gap is going to close. So the procedure went as follows: I would dremel the extension a little. Spin the receiver back on until it leveled with the dovetail cuts on the barrel.
Then run a feeler gage in the gap. Once I could not get a .011 feeler to slip down I reassembled the action and tested if I could close the bolt with a thick rimmed 357 mag case. It closed fine. I then did a live fire test by using a thin rimmed 38 case that I seated a live primer in. I only want to make sure the firing pin can hit with enough force for ignition. Plus If the primer has any back out that also gives me a rough idea of how much a thin rimmed case has to move to contact the bolt face. First round of my fitting procedure produced a protuding primer on the 38 case. I measured the protrusion and then tore down the action and put the barrel back in the vice for round 2. I removed just a little less than the protruding primer measurement. Remember take a little off. Test. Adjust. It is easy to remove and pain to put back. After round 2 I could slip a .006 feeler guage between the bolt lip and frame. The .007 would not fit. So I reassembled again and repeated my testing. This time when I closed the bolt on the the thicker 357 Mag case there is a noticeable resistance, but it does close just fine. Then I primed another 38 case and repeated the live fire. This time there is no noticeable protruding primer.
I stopped there. I was getting tired so decided I had achieved enough for one night.
I will add pics, but I have to get ready for work this morning.
Last edited by 8uck5nort; 10-10-2019 at 07:53 AM. Reason: Adding pics