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Thread: Threaded Adapter



  1. #21
    Wrangler
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuckyBadger View Post
    Where would I start to look for/price a suppressor? This is a whole new thing to me.
    Quote Originally Posted by BuckyBadger View Post
    What kind of hoops do you have to jump through to buy and own a suppressor?
    https://www.silencershop.com/how-to-buy-a-silencer

  2. #22
    Gunfighter
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cowboy23* View Post
    YES--must be perfectly concentric to the bore. Not all barrels are perfectly concentric to the bore on the outside unless they were turned on a lathe. The adapter you want depends on the outside being perfectly concentric to the bore. Baffles on a suppressor are a very tight clearance----.001 to -005 as opposed to muzzle brake clearances---.020.
    Cowboy23, I'm sure it varies slightly with manufacturers and calibers but I believe the nominal difference between the bullet diameter and the inside diameter of the baffles/end caps is normally in the 0.030 to 0.045 range. If you only had 0.001 to 0.005 clearance, it wouldn't take many rounds before normal carbon fouling would result in baffle strikes and cast boolits which are normally 0.001 to 0.002 over bore diameter could never be fired from a suppressor (and yet it is done routinely).
    Your reputation is what men say about you on your tombstone, your character is what the angels proclaim about you before the throne of God!

  3. #23
    Tenderfoot
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    To the OP...clamp on adapters are a very bad Idea as the OD of the barrel is pretty much never concentric with the bore. Trust me on this. I have threaded several thousand barrels and run out of .020 or more is common.
    Kendawg and flatsneck like this.

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  5. #24
    Site Contributor Marlin Marksman
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    Baffle strike "ouch"
    flatsneck likes this.

  6. #25
    Deadeye
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    Use a brass shim, aluminum shim (flat, rolled,thin) or some softer metal than the gun barrel under the adapter for the set screws to be applied against. Or, make sure your set screws are either brass tipped (crimp a cap on them if needed) or Delrin, etc..

    I have done this on my Big Bore PCP air rifles wherein the barrel muzzle was not threaded.

    As to proper alignment, use a brass rod longer than the can and machined to fit tightly in the muzzle, with tapered or straight.

    That is your option other than a threaded muzzle or muzzle can attachment similar to the AR variants and Sniper rifles have which are threaded on the barrel muzzle (i.e. the muzzle is already threaded!) to begin with.
    Last edited by 1Forecon; 02-17-2020 at 03:58 PM. Reason: Spieling!
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  7. #26
    Site Contributor Marlin Marksman
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    After you shoot 100rd, better check again. Cans comes loose after 100 rounds or so. Are you using oil filters as cans?




    Quote Originally Posted by 1Forecon View Post
    Use a brass shim, aluminum shim (flat, rolled,thin) or some softer metal than the gun barrel under the adapter for the set screws to be applied against. Or, make sure your set screws are either brass tipped (crimp a cap on them if needed) or Delrin, etc..

    I have done this on my Big Bore PCP air rifles wherein the barrel muzzle was not threaded.

    As to proper alignment, use a brass rod longer than the can and machined to fit tightly in the muzzle, with tapered or straight.

    That is your option other than a threaded muzzle or muzzle can attachment similar to the AR variants and Sniper rifles have which are threaded on the barrel muzzle (i.e. the muzzle is already threaded!) to begin with.


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