New 39A Golden FTF, FTE fix - Page 4
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Thread: New 39A Golden FTF, FTE fix



  1. #31
    Tenderfoot
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    ....above post should have red " .020", not ".20"
    Sorry about that.

  2. #32
    Tenderfoot
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    I bought a 39A about 5 years ago. The biggest trouble I had was the FT extract sometimes. Seemed the case bulged when fired and would get stuck. I would have to go into the muzzle and knock the empty case out. I bought a Wisners extractor and that would drag anything out... it really grabbed the empty case, but it was a very weak ejection. Sometimes it wouldn't even clear the opening and I would have to shake the casing out. I finally bought an armorers DVD on the 39A from Midway or somewhere and really paid attention. I am not sure why the Wisner extractor would not toss the empty case very far but it seems to not cause enough flicking action by holding and pushing the bottom of the case one way while the ejector pushes the top of the case the other way. Because of the weak ejection I went back to the original flat spring type extractor. I put a round into the bolt and I could see the extractor was only grabbing the edge of the rim, it wasn't getting a good hold. When I saw this I could see it only needed about two to three strokes with a file to fix it. In the pictures I placed a piece of paper under the base of the shell to show how the extractor grabbed the shell before I filed the extractor. The extractor grabbed the rim but only on the edge and as you can see in the picture it could not reach the barrel of the case... there was a space there. After filing the end just a little the extractor could clear the rim and reach the barrel of the case. Now it will drag anything out of the chamber, swollen case or not. Hope this can help someone else out there.
    after.jpgBefore.jpg
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    Last edited by Pecos Phil; 08-20-2015 at 08:25 PM.

  3. #33
    Site Contributor Marlin Fanatic
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    I've had a 39A Golden for 4 or 5 years now. It is a 2000 YOM.
    I have never had problems to extract or eject, but started to have FTF about six months ago. It started with 1 out of 18 shots and grew up to12-15 out of 18.
    Today, I opened it and reviewed it using basically this thread (OP) and this other one: https://www.marlinowners.com/forum/ri...e-fteject.html
    To be honest, the suggestion of deepen the bed of the cartridge guide spring didn't make sense. In my gun, it looked deep enough and the spring wasn't even close of interfering with firing pin.
    Of all suggestions I found in different threads on the matter, the only that mechanically made sense in my gun was the hammer rebound lower strut issue. What the lower strout does is stoping the forward movement of the hammer. If you reduce 0.01" the strout, your hammer is going to go 0.01" further; therefore hitting harder the firing pin and making it going deeper on the rim of the cartridge.
    I decided to take my chance and reduced the length of the lower strut in 0.04" or 1.0 mm aprox. Unfortunately, I have to wait until Tuesday to shoot the gun and see how it works. I'll keep my finger crossed.
    papajohnabi and Golfbuddy45 like this.
    Kaweskar (Sha'diaah-Binaai)

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  5. #34
    Certified Gunnut
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaweskar View Post
    I've had a 39A Golden for 4 or 5 years now. It is a 2000 YOM.
    I have never had problems to extract or eject, but started to have FTF about six months ago. It started with 1 out of 18 shots and grew up to12-15 out of 18.
    Today, I opened it and reviewed it using basically this thread (OP) and this other one: https://www.marlinowners.com/forum/ri...e-fteject.html
    To be honest, the suggestion of deepen the bed of the cartridge guide spring didn't make sense. In my gun, it looked deep enough and the spring wasn't even close of interfering with firing pin.
    Of all suggestions I found in different threads on the matter, the only that mechanically made sense in my gun was the hammer rebound lower strut issue. What the lower strout does is stoping the forward movement of the hammer. If you reduce 0.01" the strout, your hammer is going to go 0.01" further; therefore hitting harder the firing pin and making it going deeper on the rim of the cartridge.
    I decided to take my chance and reduced the length of the lower strut in 0.04" or 1.0 mm aprox. Unfortunately, I have to wait until Tuesday to shoot the gun and see how it works. I'll keep my finger crossed.
    You can replace the hammer strut if you do take too much off. They have them in stock at Brownells for $6.99 so don't sweat it...

    GB45
    Kaweskar likes this.



    GB45

  6. #35
    Site Contributor Marlin Fanatic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Golfbuddy45 View Post
    You can replace the hammer strut if you do take too much off. They have them in stock at Brownells for $6.99 so don't sweat it...

    GB45
    Yes, I knew that, thanks! I also have a great friend down there that can get it for me!!!
    Kaweskar (Sha'diaah-Binaai)

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  7. #36
    Site Contributor Marlin Fanatic
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaweskar View Post
    I've had a 39A Golden for 4 or 5 years now. It is a 2000 YOM.
    I have never had problems to extract or eject, but started to have FTF about six months ago. It started with 1 out of 18 shots and grew up to12-15 out of 18.
    Today, I opened it and reviewed it using basically this thread (OP) and this other one: https://www.marlinowners.com/forum/ri...e-fteject.html
    To be honest, the suggestion of deepen the bed of the cartridge guide spring didn't make sense. In my gun, it looked deep enough and the spring wasn't even close of interfering with firing pin.
    Of all suggestions I found in different threads on the matter, the only that mechanically made sense in my gun was the hammer rebound lower strut issue. What the lower strout does is stoping the forward movement of the hammer. If you reduce 0.01" the strout, your hammer is going to go 0.01" further; therefore hitting harder the firing pin and making it going deeper on the rim of the cartridge.
    I decided to take my chance and reduced the length of the lower strut in 0.04" or 1.0 mm aprox. Unfortunately, I have to wait until Tuesday to shoot the gun and see how it works. I'll keep my finger crossed.
    I couldn't wait until tomorrow, had to know whether the modification worked or not. So I went to the shooting range, although it was raining, windy and freezing cold. But the gun shot flawlessly: I shot 75 rounds, all of them fired with authority, while extracting and ejecting perfectly. Even more, 25 five of the cartridges I shot had failed to fire in the last couple of months; today, all of them went bang!!! Can't be happier!!!

    Cheers
    oleroy likes this.
    Kaweskar (Sha'diaah-Binaai)

    P a t a g o n i a - H i g h l a n d s
    Nature Preserve - Outfitters - Realtors


  8. #37
    Tenderfoot
    Join Date
    May 2016
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    Don't really know how to use a forum, But I sure could use some help. I need a breechbolt for my late 50s 39A, been looking for a couple of years. I did find one at Marlin Spares.com in the UK, but they will not ship here. only way to get it is to find someone there to purchase it and ship it here. Or maybe someone here knows where to find one.

  9. #38
    Tenderfoot
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    Hello Group,

    New to the group. Wondering if anyone knows the differences between the 39A and the 39D marlins? Any help would be appreciated.


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