New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?
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  1. #1
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    New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?

    I double posted this question here and in the gunsmithing section because I am not sure if I have a problem or not. I just opened my new 39A for a first real cleaning and inspection. One of the things I wanted to get to was the lever screw because I thought the lever had excessive play. I have fired 350 rounds in my first function test with 7 types of ammo. All OK, No FTF, No FTE. As soon as I got the rifle in half, I put my screwdriver onto the lever screw and it was tight. I don't know what is normal for a 39A (this is my first). I measure a full travel of about 1/4" side to side with the screw tight and measured at the very butt end of the lever. Is this normal. The lever screw end where it is seen at the right side receiver is about right. Could they have installed/provided a screw that is too small? Is this a lever that the screw hole was machined too large? Is this within normal limits for a 39A? My regular Marlin levers all have a little play, but, not like this. Overall the form fit and function on this new 2008 is good and it shoots well. Let me know what you think. thanks rc

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    Re: New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?

    I think you are fine. I would not worry about it.

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    Re: New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?

    The lever screw is not the primary holder of the lever; the screw just basically keeps the lever from coming off when the halves are separated. The machined sections in the two halves provide the reinforcement for the lever. The lever screw isn't supposed to put any torque on the lever. I think you're fine.
    “The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.”
    ― Charles Bukowski

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    Re: New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?

    Tomjohn, looking at it, I see what you mean. Is there supposed to be another shim type washer outside of the machined "post". It looks like there is a recess machined around the steel "post" that could take a very fine copper or brass shim. I am impressed with how this rifle goes together. Was this about the original design in the 39? Who thought of this I wonder?

    Next question: To get the receiver back together do you have to do anything tricky? (like coax it with a rubber mallet). I still have it apart but have tried to test fit the two halves back together and so far they don't want to just "slip together". Is this "a wiggle the lever while flipping the gun on end" type thing?

    Sorry, but, this is the first time I have ever had one of these apart.
    thanks rc

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    Re: New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?

    On my new 2009 39a I thought it needed a washer as well but found it is not nessasary because the post on the opposit half is the main keeper and point of pivot, the screw acts as a holder when the halves are seperated. I did try one but the extra thickness only made it impossible for the halves to close completely and it bound up. If you have play in the lever when it is assembled, there is a screw just forward of the lever on the underside. it holds the lever friction spring in place and is an adjustment for holding the lever snug and not flop. This screw maybe loose or the spring maybe sprung and need re-shaped. If the lever is not floppy then it is fine. Hope this helps.
    "Better to have one and not need it than to need it and not have one" talking about a gun; John Wayne

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    Re: New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?

    Quote Originally Posted by RHOUSER
    Tomjohn, looking at it, I see what you mean. Is there supposed to be another shim type washer outside of the machined "post". It looks like there is a recess machined around the steel "post" that could take a very fine copper or brass shim. I am impressed with how this rifle goes together. Was this about the original design in the 39? Who thought of this I wonder?

    Next question: To get the receiver back together do you have to do anything tricky? (like coax it with a rubber mallet). I still have it apart but have tried to test fit the two halves back together and so far they don't want to just "slip together". Is this "a wiggle the lever while flipping the gun on end" type thing?

    Sorry, but, this is the first time I have ever had one of these apart.
    thanks rc
    No wiggle to getting one back together, the front rounded tenon on the right half slips into the left side first, then it just clamshells together. It helps to have the hammer at half-cock. Secure with the through bolt/thumbscrew. That screw may take some tweaking, some guns like a tight screw, some like it a little more slack. New ones tend to be tight on takedown/reassembly, but no beating on it needed. No shim washers, either. If properly made, the receiver sections have the same fit as an old-time S&W revolver sideplate.

    A fellow named Hepburn designed it, also responsible for a lot of other inventions.

    I was going to mention that if the lever seems loose, your thumbscrew might need tightening. Should just need bare hands to tighten, DON'T USE PLIERS. The reason is that the two bosses that the lever pivots on are actually the locking "shoulders", the lever props the bolt shut and those shoulders support the lever. So if you tighten the thumbscrew down down, you'll wedge the lever a little tighter and fractionally tighten the headspace. As one other poster mentioned, the screw through the lever just retains it in the right half when taken down. Has nothing to do with how tight or loose the lever is when the rifle is put together. Lube those pivot bosses, too.

    Stan S.

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    Re: New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?

    To put the two sides back together, it generally works best if you have the hammer at half or full-cock and the lever open just a little bit. Mess around with it and you'll find the sweet spot.
    “The problem with the world is that the intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.”
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    Re: New 2008 39A Lever/Lever Screw Problem?

    I had everything open. I am not fond of the little screw to lock down the ejector but got it done. I ran some breakfree down the bore and patched it out. I sprayed down the bolt and both sides of the receiver with gun scrubber and wiped it all down. I sprayed both sides of the receiver and the bolt with breakfree and let it sit for about 30 minutes then wiped it down.

    Per Stans4's suggestion, I put a little gungrease on the lever pivot points on both sides of the receiver and reassembled everything.

    In the end, it just took a little more "wrist" to get the two sides to "snap into place". (Thanks Tomjohn). I had no problems with the thumb screw and brought it up to a firm fingertight.

    Per lesismore's suggestion, I tightened the screw on the bottom in front of the lever. It was loose. After snugging this screw, all the lever drop/slop is now gone.

    One thing I did find was a 3/4" long by 1/4" wide by maybe 1/8" thick sliver of one edge finished stock wood inside the receiver. I removed this and can find nowhere that it came from this gun (I even removed the butt and inspected it all). I think maybe this went into the receiver during the stock fitting? Anyway, I believe this could have been effecting the tighness of the receiver sides with the thumbscrew. At any rate, this action is now exactly like I would expect a tight new rifle to feel. Thanks for all the help... rc


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