Marlin Glenfield 15 Wood
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Thread: Marlin Glenfield 15 Wood



  1. #1
    Tenderfoot
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    Marlin Glenfield 15 Wood

    I just finished re bluing my model 15. It came out really great. Now it's time to refinish the wood. I'm planning to strip it down to the wood, stain and finish with tru oil. The old finish is redish in color. I would like to go back red but a little less red than what it is now. I'm planning on using a Minwax stain because that's all I'm going to find in this small town. I've seen the Minwax gunstock oil stain but don't really like it. Any ideas. Does anyone know what kind of wood Marlin used in the Glenfield 15. I'm told it looks like birch. I don't know.
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  2. #2
    Super Moderator
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    If it is not Walnut it is very, very likely Birch... I would suggest looking up on staining and finishing Birch as it doesn't take staining well without a lot of prep work...
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    Bart

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  3. #3
    Tenderfoot
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    It's birch. I was going to stain but I've been told so many times how hard birch is to stain that I've backed off from that. I have thought about dye but don't think I will. Now I'm thinking leave the wood natural and finish with tru oil or maybe try the wipe on poly. If I do that I would like to darken the carving in grip with some dark stain so it will stand out. I've changed my mind about this thing so many times. Probably what's going to happen, one morning I will pick up the stock, carry it to the basement and put something on it. Just have to wait to see what it will be.
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  5. #4
    Tinhorn
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    If you have access to a leather supply ,you can use leather dye, there many colors and color variations available plus the ability to mix and come up with about anything you want.You must remove all existing finish and sand smooth. I used this process on a old Stevens 22over 20gauge that was bereft of original finish with a dark ox blood

  6. #5
    Distinguished Master
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    I bet that you will not be disappointed with a natural finish. Staining old wood is always an iffy proposition but works if you do not mind a little character. It is a lot work to recover from stain that does not take well to the part. I agree with your decision to back off the stain idea. Experiment on test pieces by putting some coloring in the true oil before applying it. It may darken to the color that you wish.
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  7. #6
    Marlin Marksman
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    When I want a red(ish) brown stain I always reach for the Minwax Red Chestnut. It looks wonderful on walnut stocks...on that Glenfield, its likely a birch stock so it won't take stain evenly. Use a sanding sealer on it first....then use a Walnut stain to darken it ...then the Red Chestnut. I'm sure you'll get the results that will be acceptable. No one stain has every really satisfied me...I like layering them to get the color that I want.

    redhawk

    [EDIT] - I originally said Red Oak...I just checked the can...its Red Chestnut...its my goto to give that redish hue.
    Last edited by redhawk0; 03-06-2020 at 11:18 AM. Reason: correction.
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  8. #7
    Site Contributor & Team 444 Co-Captain Super Moderator
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    I don't recall what I used when I tried to refinish the birch stock on my 30TK, but I did not like it, I do recall that I used Mahogany stain (probably Minwax) to do up the walnut stock that replaced the birch. Using a sanding sealer on birch before applying stain will get you a more uniformed color. Good luck in your endeavors. See last post for a comparison.
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  9. #8
    Tenderfoot
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    Finished. I went back and forth on whether to try stain or dye on the birch wood. When I got it stripped I decided I liked it just the way it was, bare. So here it is. Six coats of Minwax wipe on Satan poly. Re blued the metal with oxpho blue paste. I think it came out pretty good.


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