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  1. #21
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    I'm lazy and try to avoid sanding. I have found a natural bristle paint brush and Laquer thinner will take off most finishes. Best done outdoors because of vapors. I use a small stiffer brush on checkering. Finishes like Rem uses can sometimes be skinned off if you can find a starting place. Under butt pad there is usually over lap on end grain. Careful use of a knife you can get under finish and start it peeling off the wood. Shove pop sickle sticks under where you get a start and cut finish with a razor knife on top of the pop sickle stick. This doesn't work on checkering. I use linseed. I have a Win 1897 & Marlin 1895 I did with the Rem type finish. I can't complain how they came out but I think they suck. That deep hi gloss look is out of place on older guns for me. I have several rifles and shotguns that have Linseed finish and they look good. Every once in awhile I will give them another thin coat. I have my dads A5 Brn which he did in 1955 or 56 and applied addition coats over the years and looks better than a new one today. First coat may soak in fast give plenty of time to dry before additional coats. Get in a hurry and you will end up with a gummy sticky mess.
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  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ96 View Post
    I want to do a little work on a 1982 39A. The gun is in fine shape, but I want to make the wood a little nicer. I want to sand it down to bare wood and refinish it, but I'm not too sure how to go about it. I like the Linseed oil but I'm not sure if I want to go that dark on it, and I think the Tru Oil is a little too light for the look I want but I really love the high luster finish of it.

    I was considering a few coats of Linseed and then a few coats of Tru Oil on top of that.

    I know someone here has plenty of experience using both; what do you guys think?
    I use pure Linseed if I want to duplicate the stock military oiled open grain look of originally issued rifles. Problem with Linseed is that it doesn't really seal and protect the wood from moisture damage (You must take stock off and dry it if it got rained on). Also, you should remove the action and oil inside the stock too.
    If you want the finish a little lighter you can mix Linseed with Tru Oil and apply that to the bare wood first. Use multiple coats until you get it as dark as you want then let it dry and then finish it up with just pure Tru Oil (For the high luster). That works pretty well on a lot of stocks I have refinished.

  3. #23
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    Stripper - your choice
    Surface prep - wet/dry paper ... 400-600-800
    Stain - your choice
    Finish Surface Prep - wet/dry paper 600-800-1200
    Oil - Watco Danish Oil 5-10 applications using 1200 wet/dry paper to seal the pores with wood (not seal the pores with metal shards from steel wool)
    Last couple of Oil application use plain old coffee filter papers to burnish the final finish


    That's just my procedures ...


    jd
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  5. #24
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    When I finish a stock with linseed oil. I first use tru oil only on the inside of the stock. the outside linseed oil and take my time.
    rob42049 and Gareth Holland like this.

  6. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ96 View Post
    Thanks for the tips guys, I'll start working on it sometime during the next week. Before/during/after photos inbound
    I have found that the slower I go, and the more patient I am, the better the result. Don’t get in a hurry, take your time, and it will pay off.

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  7. #26
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    Truoil is pretty user friendly and holds up pretty good. I am sure if you want a museum quality finish then you could go to the French oil, etc.
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  8. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisZ96 View Post
    I want to do a little work on a 1982 39A. The gun is in fine shape, but I want to make the wood a little nicer.
    Preserve and protect!

    This is what I do for all my old rifle stocks.

    Clean with Restor-a-finish first, then preserve and protect with feed-n-wax.
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    Last edited by LadyLuck; 04-14-2019 at 03:06 PM.
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  9. #28
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    untitled39a6.pnguntitled39a4.png Tru oil, about 8 coats maybe more, , was going to knock down the sheen but kind of like the way it looks.

  10. #29
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    I finished a 336 Texan from this old guys video; it takes a while but it looks pretty good. I don't like these rifles real shinny so I didn't do as many coats as he did, but it made it look like I wanted.
    ChrisZ96 likes this.
    Josey Wales: Now remember, when things look bad and it looks like you're not gonna make it, then you gotta get mean. I mean plumb, mad-dog mean. 'Cause if you lose your head and you give up then you neither live nor win. That's just the way it is.
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  11. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by unitcrane View Post
    I finished a 336 Texan from this old guys video; it takes a while but it looks pretty good. I don't like these rifles real shinny so I didn't do as many coats as he did, but it made it look like I wanted.
    He is a master stock finisher and does excellent custom checkering work. I have seen one of his stocks in person, and it was unbelievable.
    unitcrane likes this.

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