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Thread: New to reloading; getting accurate measures on IMR 4198



  1. #21
    Sidewinder
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    For rifle, I dip powder. Stick powder doesn't meter well. Always seemed to be cutting grains of powder on my Redding. I dip light and trickle. I weigh every charge to have a tolerance of +1/10th of a grain -0. I like shooting little groups... I shot rifle competitively for years so this was the norm. I do my hunting ammo the same. Crazy anal I suppose, but it works for me...

    Now for pistol my Redding metered very well. I kept the level of the powder within two lines on the hopper and it was very consistent. As the poster above. Throw nine charges, check #10.

  2. #22
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    Using a Lee powder measure to get it close,then using the trickler is the correct way.I’d stick with that for a while.Get your own technique going.You will get faster and more accurate.
    And once you really get into reloading,you will progress and try different ways.And buy different equipment.Experience will lead the way for you.Did for me.
    I have an RCBS chargemaster and an RCBS rangemaster.Both digital,both do well(within 1/10 gn)But,I’ve found that the mechanical scales are most accurate.
    I have an older RCBS 505 mechanical scale that a buddy gave me a few years back.I have it set up with a small camera and a screen so I can see it.Most accurate setup I own.
    "Welcome to my home, the locked door you just kicked in was for your protection, not mine!"

  3. #23
    Tenderfoot
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    Good information; no competition shooter here either, hunting and plinking! Now I'll just sort through all this and move forward; seems a set of dippers would be handy. Thanks to all who responded and offered some wisdom; greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by Smoke12; 04-01-2019 at 07:56 PM.

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  5. #24
    Marlin Marksman
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smoke12 View Post
    I finally got around to reloading for my Marlin 1895CB-26" barrel. I figure, so far, that I'll only be reloading for the 45-70 but we'll see as time goes on! Definitely enjoying this so far.
    I'm using Oregon Trail Laser Cast 405 gr. FP .459 bullet.
    Basic equipment; Lee Breech Lock Challenger kit; I have the "safety powder scale" and the "perfect powder measure".

    Here's the rub; been having a hell of a time on the powder measure, according to the calculation numbers/formula given and adjusting that gizmo to throw a close load. Consequently, I'll throw the powder that is close but light, then go to the scale and using a "trickler", top it off with the final "judge" being the scale.

    How's all this sound? Am I on the right track with this process? Thinking of getting a digital scale? I've already got one eye so I'm pretty cautious/careful and rechecking all I do as I go along.
    Any thoughts, advice, ideas would be appreciated!

    Thanks in advance
    Bullseye

  6. #25
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    I would stab myself in the eye if I had to scoop then trickle up each charge.
    Marlins: 1951 336RC .30-30 - 1951 39A "Peanut" - 1988 Model 60 (22" blued) - 1972 Glenfield Model 75 .22LR
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  7. #26
    Wrangler
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    Me? Just old school cuz I am. Retired, got the time & easily entertained. I do the flashlight chk thing before reaching for the seating die. Esp when using light tgt loads of Unique in 45-70 cases. Don’t own an 1895 CB but love my 1895 LTD IV which is just about an 1895 CB w/24” bbl. It shoots accurately w/Unique but when at the 600 yd dinger & past IMR 4198 (33 gr) takes the lead (shoulder can sure tell the difference). My Pedersoli roller w/30 gr IMR 4198 finally took me to the 990 yd dinger. A pwdr w/multi talents IMHO.
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  8. #27
    Tenderfoot
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    I use an electronic scale & quickly check each charge on the scale, trickle a few powder kernels to get it just right, then dump into the case. I also switched to H4198 SC (Short Cut Kernels of powder). You get used to it. I worked up a new load. It's much less headache for me. YMMV
    Sideswipe likes this.

  9. #28
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    I only load small volume so I set my Redding droppers and for rifles I check almost every charge. For really small charges the Lyman 55 works good also. I am too old and too retired to worry about speed, but do worry about precision.
    467CAV and Sideswipe like this.
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  10. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by GasGuzzler View Post
    I would stab myself in the eye if I had to scoop then trickle up each charge.
    I don't think I'd stab myself in the eye, but I would drop a 50 pound cannonball on my toes. Unless you're shooting 600, 800, or 1000 yard Palma Matches, dipped charges are just fine. After 47+ years with the same homemade dippers, I'm using my time efficiently and getting great accuracy. Concentricity in bullet seating and getting the bullet into the throat and rifling straightly is way, way more important for accuracy than a few tenths of powder.

    The industry standards, Federal Gold Medal Match, or Black Hills Match, load on automated machinery that puts out thousands of rounds per hour. I have friends working in assembly at Black Hills. The machines load by volume and the powder charges are supposedly held to two tenths of a grain plus/minus limits. Which means that at the worst case scenario, charges may be four tenths apart. ( Two minus or two plus) Same as your dipper if your technique is consistent. When they're making 10 or 20 thousand rounds per hour, they don't weigh individual charges, and the accuracy record for the above mentioned ammo is enviable.
    Sideswipe, graymustang and Vooch like this.
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  11. #30
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    For rifles I set charge thrower light and trickle to 0 on beam scale. For hand guns and small cartridges like 25/20 & 32/20 I check every
    10th one on scale. And do the light pass over before starting seating operations. I have dies for about every cartridge you can think of but don't load 9mm, 380 or 32acp. The idea of hand loading to me is to get better accuracy than you can from factory. I still load on single stage presses.
    Sideswipe and shawlerbrook like this.
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