Marlin Marauder-esk Project - Page 2
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Thread: Marlin Marauder-esk Project



  1. #11
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    Tonight we finish up the front end restyle and reassembly. Everything is test fit and snugged down for some range time this weekend.
    First step is to strip the rifle to barreled action and level the top flat of the action on the bench. Shown are the basic hand tools. Only one jig is needed...a muzzleloading dove tail cutting jig in .375" width for standard dovetail sights.


    As you see, the rear of the action needs a bit of shim. No need to lock down the parts, just get the top flat level using an accurate bubble vial.

    Install the dovetail cutting jig, shim it inside to compensate for the barrel taper....some paper shims are fine, .001" brass sheet folded up and taped in works fine too. Just measure the barrel over a known distance and calculate the thickness of shim needed. On this jig, placing the front of the jig even with the muzzle puts the front edge of the front sight right about .5" behind the muzzle. A nice place and a good look, neither too far forward or back from the muzzle end. Incidentally, the barrel finished up as expected, just shy of 17" at a measured 16 7/8" on my tape, breech face to muzzle.

    A bit better shot, front/jig is level and in the same plane as the top of the receiver. Just like weaver scope mounts, you have to place the jig on slightly off level as turning up the screw will pull it slightly around the barrel. With practice, tightning the screw will bring the jig dead level and you'll get it right in a couple trys instead of 40eleven trys.
    tinkering likes this.

  2. #12
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    Make sure the jig is snug. If not it'll roll and you'll cut a crooked slot or more likely, never get it back exactly and have to slightly reposition the final resting spot for the front sight.
    Cut in the 45 degree angles first...fine tooth blade and don't expect to keep that saw blade more than several site slots. The jig, like a file trim die, is so much harder than files and saw blades that when the blade bottoms in the cut, it immediatly starts to knock the edge off the teeth of saw and file. (Read that, dispose of blades often, use yer old, old files only for this job....no sense ruining expensive files or worse, expensive parts with dull blades and files later.)

    Angle cuts completed with the hacksaw, front and rear.

    After cutting in the angles, clean out most of the remaining metal with progressive side by side cuts of the saw. You can't go too deep, the jig establishes the final depth. Course, you have to know the thickness of the barrel an leave enough metal in the roof of the barrel....I like at least 80 thousands or more on the muzzle...but I've seen plenty of guns from the factory with as little as 25 thousands in the roof and they lasted for years and years and years.

    Clean up the area between the angles with progressively finer files.

    Do a good job working in the angles with a small fine cut triangular file. It cleans up the bottom too. You'll know when you're done, every stroke sings and the file no longer "grabbs" at the softer metal of the barrel.

    Don't pull the jig unless you are sure the dovetail slot is done. Once pulled, its near impossible to get it back on right for a cleaner cut and cleaner cuts without the jig in place go from wrong to darn ugly really fast.
    tinkering and jml like this.

  3. #13
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    Very nicely done. Shooting eye view, all three planes are in line...receiver top, factory rear sight cut, new front sight cut....this is gonna work out nicely...
    But, the wings of the front sight are a bit wide to allow passage of the front barrel band. Really dosn't make sense to drive the front sight in and out just for assembly/disassembly. Thats not how it was from the factory and its easily fixed. I simply kiss the wings of the sight on a belt, removing equal amounts from each side of the front sight and contour it nicely. Then back into the groove and the total width of the front sight is just a bit wider than the dovetail cut and still narrow enough for passage of the front barrel/mag tube band. Neat.
    tinkering and gunscrewguy like this.

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  5. #14
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    Reassembled. While I was out in the super hot shop (wew, gotta get and AC in there!) I shortened up the forend just a bit more. I left about 3/10" of wood in front of the rear barrel band. More proportional and a better look with about equal amounts of barrel and stock in front of the receiver.

    For now this is a "Try Sight"...Its abit under the right height based on calculations but if there is enough elevation for sighting point blank range from 25m to 150m with a center hold, this "Try Sight" is likely to become the "Working Sight". I got a sneeking suspicion it'll be about right for the job. For the range time this weekend, I won't worry about fine adjustments on the sights (it all gets torn down again for metal polish and blueing)...so, just some accuracy work at 25 and 50m and then ring a bunch of steel from 100m to 200m.

    Not a bad looking front end. Next will be the restyling of the rear end. I plan to lose the white spacer, and as measurements may yet confirm, lose the pistol grip in favor of a straight grip conversion.

    Total parts investment to this point is about .50 cents for the T-nut on the barrel band. Front sight is still free since its a take off from a Winchester. Snuck that one in, Winnie sight on a Marlin, thats funny there, I don't care who ya are.
    tinkering and gunscrewguy like this.

  6. #15
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    Out this evening for a test fire with the new shortened and crowned barrel. The magazine capacity is 5 rounds and one in the chamber for a total of six. First shot went CLICK....seems I forgot to press the safety button. Oh well, its off now and will stay that way. Function is perfect, rounds cycle in and out smoothly without any hitches. The trigger is crisp but heavier than I like. I'd have to put a gage on it to see just how heavy.
    First target session was bench at 25m, rear sight slightly elevated and firing 180g Rem Cor Loc round nose handloads....first two shots side by side but a bit high, lowered the rear sight to the bottom setting and fired three more in the bullseye....I use a 6 oclock hold on the target, I like my shots to impact right on top of the front sight bead....

    Second target was also bench at 25m with the rear sight left in the bottom notch and firing the good old red box Winchester 150g JHP....10 shots total and I'm pretty happy with the grouping....heat and mosquitoes and wasps all considered.

    From there I fired more of the Win red box 150s at the 150m swinger, broke the chain with one shot....so, had to shoot the other 9 rounds at the 200m swingers. Working left to right using only a bag under the forearm, this short barreled Marlin range the 200m steel 8 out of 9 more times with that same 6 oclock hold. Like I said, it was hot but I couldn't stop. Fired 6 more of the handloaded Rem 180g Cor Locs at the 200m steels for 5 more hits. This one is going to make up as one fine hunting rifle for busting brush and from a stand, still capable for some longer range work. The tripod on the right, missing a swinger, is the 150m target broken with the first long range shot.
    tinkering and gunscrewguy like this.

  7. #16
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    Bottom two lines are the thick and thin parts of the lower tang, respectively. Top line is the thinest part at the hammer strut cut.

    Remove the boogered grip cap and establish several lines to stop the wood removal at. These lines are proud of where I want to be, final adjustments are made with the stock on the action and the lower tang fully thinned and rounded over.

    Cutting the stock and lower tang flat, simultaneously and using the toe line of the stock as a guide. Slow easy cuts with 60 grit on the wheel to keep from burning wood or drawing temper in the tang.

    Removed the stock, sand nearly to the quit line and leave the tang proud....bring them together one at a time, slow and easy, lots of breaks to cool and test the fit.

    A center line from the toe to the tang and a few more stop lines to keep from removing too much wood. Its easy to grind away too much, only one shot to get it right so the final shapeing and fitting is by hand.

    Profiling the bottom of the stock to remove the hand swell. Its hard to describe the process but its much like modeling the forend of a rifle stock blank. Ticklish work needing a steady hand and a steady rest on the sander.

    The right side at about the 80% finished point, time to switch to the left side. Left side is always harder for me to work on, I'm right handed and it looks backwards....don't know why, it just does....left side is usually slower work to match it with the right.

  8. #17
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    Scribe a stop line on the tang, proud of where you want to finally end up...a bit of extra metal removed by hand in the final marriage of wood to metal.

    Drill and file or hacksaw but just remove the bulk of the metal from the outer face of the lower tang.

    Here is the newly reshaped lower tang at about the 90% level....just like a Marlin straight tang. And the screw hole? Barely one thread removed....the threads are fine pitch, there is enough metal in the reshaped tang for full engagement as there was before reshaping.

    Left side of the stock at the 80% level, see the bump left on the wood near the tail of the lower tang cut? That is part of the hand work and final shapeing/adjustment.

    A quick shot underneath, the fit is good and plenty of meat in the stock and the tang left in place for hand shapeing later.
    tinkering likes this.

  9. #18
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    Bringing the shape of the left side up to about the 90% level. Still a bit of swell forward near the receiver but that is as it should be, it'll come off and into shape quick when the finish is removed.

    Same, Same on the right. Almost 90% shaped with the action installed. Looking good and a nearly straight line from toe to trigger. A bit more metal shapeing on the tang and bring the wood down to it.

    Right profile, looking pretty nice.


    Holds well too, even with a slightly curved lever.....

  10. #19
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    Holds even better now with the lever very lightly forged to straight configuration. No heat, a few taps in the right spots, supported well and very little finish work to do. A nice feel in my hand and perfect function, the trigger disconnect pad makes full contact, the lever loop does not.

    tinkering and gunscrewguy like this.

  11. #20
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    Got some more refining done last night and this morning. Been running in and out with a family med issue but all is well and hopefully tomorrow will see everyone home and setteled. Meantime, glad I have a small project to put hands on, sittin waitin for the phone to ring is just the worst.
    Here you can see, I have finished thinning the tang and slightly crowned its surface. The edges are beveled just a bit more than factory to allow for some of the loss of wood that will occur on the tip of the stock when refinishing it. The additional bevel is an old trick to help keep the wood stock even or slightly proud of the metal surface upon refininshing....since most of the factory fit is perfect before you strip off the finish and scratches and dents.... As you see, the stock itself is very nearly completly shaped. Only a whisker of wood left to remove around the tang and the shape comes up nicely from toe to tang, whidening slightly as it approaches the tang and rounded over just like the toe of the stock. I also took the opportunity to remove and toss the white buttplate spacer....when tossing this part, you also have to grind off the rubber washers on the rear of the buttplate. The buttplate now fits the stock well and I think looks much better w/o the white spacer.



    I also took the time to clean up and bring the lever loop into a smooth and final shape. Drawfiling the outside of the loop, maintaining the convex shape and also drawfiling the inside of the loop, again maintaining the convex shape. Final finish will likely be on a flap wheel all over to establish the polishing marks length wise, they don't show nearly as much that way, especially with a satin finish.

    tinkering likes this.


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