Soft-Point Hard Boolits for my PP
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Thread: Soft-Point Hard Boolits for my PP



  1. #1
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    Soft-Point Hard Boolits for my PP

    This has been described elsewhere, but I do things a bit differently for easiness.

    An example for the 45-70. I deliberately used some old, oxidized pure-lead Round-Balls to allow the oxide 'skin' to show the alloy-join more easily. Fresh clean Round-Ball cast is what you want to use.

    Took a Lee 457-450-F mold.

    Drop a pure-lead 457 Round Ball between the bottom of the nose part of the mold halves - it fits perfect.

    Dip the bottom of the whole closed mold in a hot 800F melting pot filled rim-high with hardcast alloy (in this case, a BHN 21 air-dropped hardcast alloy).

    Sprue-plate open, so you can see, hold mold closed tight, watch until you see the Round Ball melt and the molten lead sink nice and flat on the bottom of the cavity.

    (optional step) Then gently and quickly, stir the skin of top of the molten pure-lead puddle with a bit of clean stiff cold wire - it pulls out any surface skin/dross at what will be the join with harder alloy.

    Then allow to cool solid.

    Then replace sprue-plate. Now quickly top-up on top of the molten Round-Ball with the hardcast alloy, allow a good deep sprue to form.

    Then allow to cool solid again.

    Then, with the sprue still unbroken, dip whole mold bottom again into the hot alloy until the heat rises thru and the solidified sprue melts. This 'welds' the two alloys together without excessive mixing.

    Wait a few seconds more...

    Then remove and allow to solidify again. Be gentle, holding the mold level so no shaking and mixing.

    When all solid, remove sprue.

    Any easy SP Hardcast. Ready for sizing down to smooth it all off, then Paper-Patching back up.

    Tested a few with multiple heavy whacks from a 10 Pound lump-hammer. The alloy parts stay 'welded' together well.

    Seem okay, wonder if a bit more Tin in the mix would reduce the rough look of the Antimony in the hard alloy? It seems cosmetic only and grips the Paper Patch nice..

    Wonder how 2 Round-Balls would work or would that 'overdo' it?




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  2. #2
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    Just out of interest, this boolit is from the same mold, using the pot of alloy shown above, cast 'normally'

    Seems the slow 'cooking' of the soft and hard alloys in the mold roughens up the surface of the custom sp-boolit.


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    Glen,
    You have an interesting process here and a good explanation of how it is done. I do wondeer though, why the effort to have a dual alloy bullet for paper patching? I paper patch all my high power rifle bullets and use an alloy no harder than 16:1; mostly closer to 20:1. I am driving a 220 grain bullet from a .30-40 Krag cartridge at 22-2300 fps with 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. The load hits coyotes and deer like a sledge hammer with decent expansion as determined from the wound. Bullets pass through and I have yet to find one.
    Glen Roamer and Plumber like this.
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    Nicely engineered Glen! Looking forward to the field trials too.

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    The rough look is due to too much heat causing "frosting." Although it does not look as nice they should shoot just fine.

    This is really interesting and I am glad that you posted this. I would be really curious to see how they holdup in game or in a simulated media. I am curious to see if the bond hold ls up or if it shears off. I doubt hammering them is enough to test them properly.

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    Agree they won't do anything a soft regular PP boolit will do better, think we PP dudes agree on that.

    I imagine if this were a regular 'lube-groove-lubed' boolit, it could be a choice for the folks who are unable to paper Patch for whatever reason, but who want a home-made, cheap boolit hard enough to drive fast, yet expands like soft-lead up front. The use of soft-lead Round-Balls just makes the whole process so damn easy, and even leaving that layer of oxide on the finished boolit's nose really helps identify your SP's don't it? ;-)

    Think they will hold up well, I really battered the heck out of those test boolits with a serious hammer. None disassembled. The secret is that stage when I skim off the oxide from the top of the melted Round-Ball with cool wire, so it sort of acts like it was fluxed clean to get a great alloy-join.

    Ahh, I tend to do these pointless things when I've too much time on my hands.. thanks for the kind words guys!
    Plumber and mommicked like this.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rx7dryver View Post
    The rough look is due to too much heat causing "frosting." Although it does not look as nice they should shoot just fine.

    This is really interesting and I am glad that you posted this. I would be really curious to see how they holdup in game or in a simulated media. I am curious to see if the bond hold ls up or if it shears off. I doubt hammering them is enough to test them properly.

    Will get a wet-newspaper result posted here in due course...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Cash View Post
    Glen,
    You have an interesting process here and a good explanation of how it is done. I do wondeer though, why the effort to have a dual alloy bullet for paper patching? I paper patch all my high power rifle bullets and use an alloy no harder than 16:1; mostly closer to 20:1. I am driving a 220 grain bullet from a .30-40 Krag cartridge at 22-2300 fps with 1 1/2 inch groups at 100 yards. The load hits coyotes and deer like a sledge hammer with decent expansion as determined from the wound. Bullets pass through and I have yet to find one.
    Dan,
    What bullet mold are you using for your 30-40 Krag?

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    Glen Roamer,
    Wow, neat concept! Hard Cast soft point. If you'd made this info public 125 years ago, we might be just now inventing the 'metal patched' (copper jacketed) bullet. One question: how does a boy go about making the volume or ratio of soft lead to hard lead consistent, or does it really matter in terms of accuracy and real world game performance?

    Good stuff.
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  11. #10
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    mommicked - that's why to make the soft nose, I drop a suitable sized pure-Lead round-ball in the nose of the mold first, it ensures great consistency, so long as when you later pour the harder alloy on top, don't shake up the mold when the entire allow re-melts, to ensure movement causes no fingers of different lead alloys to move and run thru the boolit, that would really mess up spinning stability.


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