Bubba's 1894s: Still Another Surprise - Page 2
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Thread: Bubba's 1894s: Still Another Surprise



  1. #11
    Gunfighter
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    I'd do what gunscrew guy says!

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by cajun56 View Post
    Meh! Just past a bead from that wielder hiding in your shop! Done!

    As gunscrewguy said drill next larger and tap.

    ca'jun56
    Once I saw a 336 with the rear sight welded on.

  3. #13
    Sidewinder
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drm50 View Post
    The simplest way out is low temp silver solder, if ramp is steel. Take jewlers file and make a couple passes to rough up surface under ramp, emery the ramp. Degrease both. flux ramp and tin with the silver solder. Then using screws to line up ramp use torch on ramp.
    It just takes a few seconds to do the job. I've done this on several rifles with sucess. The only application of Low Temp Siver Solder that failed on me was a ramp I soldered on an A5 Brn shotgun. I realized right off it didn't work out when the ramp took me between the eyes on 3rd shot. On rigid barrels it works fine. Prep is 99% of soldering, make sure everything is bare and degreased or you are wasting your time.
    Would that work for a vent rib on a 410 pump? Have an old High Standard 410 pump for my kids and the vent rib came off last year during dove season.
    rob42049 likes this.

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  5. #14
    Gun Wizard
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    Break for parts?
    'Diligentia Vis Celeritas'

    Its not what difficulties life throws at us, but how we face them that defines us....

  6. #15
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    Yes it will work but will take a lot more work than a ramp. I've done only one HS and it was a 12g pump. At some point the late models were put on with some kind of epoxie. I'm not sure if rib was steel. That's first thing to check, if rib is steel it can be soldered. I just checked out a HS rib I removed from a gun that I cut down for slugs. It has front bead hole and cheater bead. It's been a good while since I did that HS but I think I used front bead hole to line up rib. I don't remember if bead went through rib into barrel. If it didn't I D&Ted barrel for bead. Same method used except besides the prep you are going to have to have clamps or jig to hold rib in place. Barrel should be held separately. Clamp action so rib will be top dead center, then clamp rib to barrel. I have seen it done by using wire as twist tie of rib to barrel. The rib doesn't have much side to side flex, just rib to barrel contact has to be clamped.
    jeepwm69 and rob42049 like this.
    Never trust a man who rents pigs : Gus, Lonesome Dove

  7. #16
    Sidewinder
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drm50 View Post
    Yes it will work but will take a lot more work than a ramp. I've done only one HS and it was a 12g pump. At some point the late models were put on with some kind of epoxie. I'm not sure if rib was steel. That's first thing to check, if rib is steel it can be soldered. I just checked out a HS rib I removed from a gun that I cut down for slugs. It has front bead hole and cheater bead. It's been a good while since I did that HS but I think I used front bead hole to line up rib. I don't remember if bead went through rib into barrel. If it didn't I D&Ted barrel for bead. Same method used except besides the prep you are going to have to have clamps or jig to hold rib in place. Barrel should be held separately. Clamp action so rib will be top dead center, then clamp rib to barrel. I have seen it done by using wire as twist tie of rib to barrel. The rib doesn't have much side to side flex, just rib to barrel contact has to be clamped.
    If it's ok I'll PM you for more info so I don't clutter up pathfinder's thread more than I already have.


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