Rem 700; receiver drill and tap questions - Page 2
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 19 of 19
Like Tree24Likes

Thread: Rem 700; receiver drill and tap questions



  1. #11
    Marlin Fanatic
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    11,199
    Member #
    64449
    Thanked
    39685 times
    If they are 10x32 you can buy them in gun screws. You can also buy 10/32 grade screws, with hex head at any industrial fastener
    supply. As last resort you can have holes welded up and redrilled. If you use Weaver or other similar Alumilum bases they are easy
    to countersink for a bigger screw head. I never get a problem with Bubba screw holes so simple.
    Never trust a man who rents pigs : Gus, Lonesome Dove

  2. #12
    Marlin Marksman
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Location
    Somerset, SW England
    Posts
    1,198
    Member #
    45106
    Thanked
    3485 times
    Take the Aspirin, you can't make a silk purse out of a pigs ear but a nice piece of custom leather can be very nice. As has been said replace the existing screws with top quality parts tidy up/ re-blue as required and you have a custom job that is stronger that the original ??.GH

  3. #13
    Gun Wizard
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    3,412
    Member #
    60398
    Thanked
    8700 times
    Years ago I was installing highspeed cameras in a building that rebuilt and tested the M61 Vulcan Gatling gun, every time they tore one down they would replace all the screws and bolts and the old ones they would toss in a bucket and trash. Most of this hardware was titanium, they let me take some of it, used it for all sorts of projects. Anyway if I had any left I would send you a few of the #10-40 to mount your scope with and solve your problem.
    rob42049 likes this.

  4. Remove Advertisements
    MarlinOwners.com
    Advertisements
     

  5. #14
    Gun Wizard
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    FloriBama
    Posts
    3,761
    Member #
    26005
    Thanked
    5884 times
    Thanks guys, much appreciated. I'm going to take off the scope and mounts and make sure the screw holes are properly lined up. If they are, I'll check the thread pitch and replace 'em with something less eye-catching. If not, it'll probably be some kind of fill and re-tap. It's matte finish so not too worried about the end result; have been thinking about Cerakote anyway.....
    rob42049 likes this.
    I ain't askin' nobody for nuthin', if I can't get it on my own.

  6. #15
    Marlin Fanatic
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    SE Ohio
    Posts
    11,199
    Member #
    64449
    Thanked
    39685 times
    I would guess that a guy that would jump from 6x48 to a #10 screw most likely went to 10x32. It is a common size and also used
    some make of guns. Most of Bubbaed scope base screws I run into are 8x32 because not to many guys have 8x40 taps. On a gun
    such as 700 that is factory drilled it's hard to screw up D/T unless Bubba did some major damage trying to get a screw out.
    Cowboy23* likes this.
    Never trust a man who rents pigs : Gus, Lonesome Dove

  7. #16
    Distinguished Master
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Libertardland
    Posts
    6,396
    Member #
    47987
    Thanked
    15658 times
    Quote Originally Posted by Drm50 View Post
    I would guess that a guy that would jump from 6x48 to a #10 screw most likely went to 10x32. It is a common size and also used
    some make of guns. Most of Bubbaed scope base screws I run into are 8x32 because not to many guys have 8x40 taps. On a gun
    such as 700 that is factory drilled it's hard to screw up D/T unless Bubba did some major damage trying to get a screw out.
    I would check first to see if he went with 10-32 which is pretty coarse. If he drilled it straight and used 10-40 or 10-48 that would be much stronger than 6-48. Otherwise the only way to weld it up properly is to use a TIG welder to apply minimum heat to the receiver.

    I've had to clean up some Bubba jobs and you would be surprised at some of the things done. I had a Ruger Mini 14 stainless with an S&K scope mount where he JB welded everything onto the gun and JB welded all the screws and filled up the area between the rear sight ears on the receiver with JB weld. It took me a looooong time to get all that JB weld off.

    Good luck on your project.

  8. #17
    Gun Wizard
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    FloriBama
    Posts
    3,761
    Member #
    26005
    Thanked
    5884 times
    Thanks again guys. I suspect they are 10-32. Took them out once a while back, rolled my eyes, and put them back. They are kinda coarse, so I doubt they are the finer thread 'gun screw' type. Rear screws are set in stone ;-) Gonna have to try some heat from a soldering iron. Hoping he just used red Locktite, but can't see any visible signs of it. Will be a week or two before I can get back to playing with this, and will check screws with a thread pitch gauge then. I Figure at this point, even if the front screw holes are not centered, maybe a Leupold adjustable base can compensate. Haven't looked to see if there are other brands. If all is well with alignment, it'll get a DNZ mount.
    I ain't askin' nobody for nuthin', if I can't get it on my own.

  9. #18
    Gun Wizard
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    FloriBama
    Posts
    3,761
    Member #
    26005
    Thanked
    5884 times
    Well, it has been like forever, but I have finally verified the screw holes are perfectly in line with the bore, and that was my main concern. They are definitely 3/32 so I'm going with some hex head cap screws up front and the rears will be left as is. Mount will be a DNZ game reaper because they have served me well, and because the base has enough meat to allow burying the screw heads; they come with hex head screws any way. Will just have to over-drill the front holes to take the 8/32 shank and head.
    Last edited by 4T57T; 10-05-2018 at 06:41 AM. Reason: screw size error
    rob42049 and navajo like this.
    I ain't askin' nobody for nuthin', if I can't get it on my own.

  10. #19
    Gun Wizard
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    FloriBama
    Posts
    3,761
    Member #
    26005
    Thanked
    5884 times
    Well, finally got around to this........... The DNZ mount was moved aside for a Weaver mount. Ended up just going with 8-32 Allen screws in front, but they look better to me, and I didn't want to fool around with what were otherwise nice, straight holes. Had to shorten the front screw a a bit, and because it was 8-32, I was able to use the screw cutting feature in my wire strippers. Fitting that there's still a bit of Bubba in the project. Before and after below.

    Web_3504.jpg

    Web_3505.jpg
    I ain't askin' nobody for nuthin', if I can't get it on my own.


Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Home | Forum | Active Topics | What's New | Subscribed Threads

Sponsored Links

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Similar Threads

  1. How hard is it to drill and tap the top strap on an 1894?
    By Jayhawkhuntclub in forum Do It Yourself Gunsmithing
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 01-02-2011, 02:25 AM
  2. Drill and Tap for saddle ring
    By TacticalPino in forum Do It Yourself Gunsmithing
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 11-20-2010, 09:45 PM
  3. Anyone drill and tap their front hood?
    By shayno in forum Do It Yourself Gunsmithing
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 05-09-2010, 08:31 PM
  4. DRILL AND TAP
    By jhaffner202 in forum The 45/70 Govt.
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 12-12-2009, 09:44 PM
  5. Drill and tap
    By Gassyman in forum 336
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 08-18-2008, 05:10 PM