Pan Lube: Step By Step with Pictures and Instructions #2
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Thread: Pan Lube: Step By Step with Pictures and Instructions #2



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    Pan Lube: Step By Step with Pictures and Instructions #2

    After the pour,

    Let the mold and lube stand for around 15 min. You will see the block pulling away from the side of the silicone mold and the lube is still warm to the touch. Pop the bullet out from the nose to the base with your thumb. If it is difficult to push through, the lube is too cool. With practice, experience, and outcome results you will get better at getting a clean bullet.

    IMG_20180304_155827227.jpg

    When the lube is at the right temperature the results are great. No worries if there is excess lube on the bullet because the lube was too cool or too warm, just push them through a Lee sizer die to remove any excess.

    IMG_20180304_155956200.jpg


    Before handling, let the lube cool to avoid damage.

    IMG_20180304_160213911.jpg

    If needed, wipe off any excess on the nose of the bullet and you are done

    I hope my years of experiences helps you along the journey of casting, lubing, and producing quality bullets that put then in very small spaces.

    40-65 Win, 390 gr tapered bullet, graphite tumbles, pan lubes, 5 shots at 100 meters, from a bench, and using tang sights.

    100M tang sight 390gr 5 shot.jpg
    Last edited by PoopDeckPappy; 03-05-2018 at 01:39 AM.
    JMAG54, rob42049, moofy07 and 3 others like this.
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    Interesting idea with the silicone mold. These days I powder coat everything but will have to remember this if I ever go back to the slow method.
    PoopDeckPappy and moofy07 like this.

    Blessed are the flexible for they shall not be bent out of shape.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kingstrider View Post
    Interesting idea with the silicone mold. These days I powder coat everything but will have to remember this if I ever go back to the slow method.
    Kingstrider,

    I agree, hard cast bullets can take the tumble process to coat without material damage to the shape. However, for those that use alloy in the 40-1 to 20-1 range, the tumble process to powder coat, even a top punch lube press, deforms the bullets and deteriorates accuracy. In other words. A bullet that passes inspection is one that is +/- .5 gr for a 300 gr bullet with a perfect base. I have found the coating process deforms the bullet base on soft alloy and becomes counter productive for accuracy.

    I do powder coat pistol bullets for plinking and <25 yard work for revolvers. However, for BPCR, Schuetzen, Rifle & Pistol caliber Lever Silhouette, and pistol silhouette where down range accuracy is necessary, fast is seldom the best option when accuracy is the goal.

    Powder coating has a place as does filling lube grooves and paper patching. All are good.

    You can see from my list of cartridges, I do not own center fire semi auto pistols or rifles.
    Last edited by PoopDeckPappy; 03-05-2018 at 01:01 AM.
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    Team Winchester #145

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    Blessed are the flexible for they shall not be bent out of shape.


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