LBT mold question
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  1. #1
    Tinhorn
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    LBT mold question

    So after trying to contact Beartooth bullets for 3 weeks with no success I decided it’s time to start casting my own boolits.
    I have an 1895 GBL and I was wanting some molds for both 425 and 525 gr similar to the piledriver.
    After speaking to Veral he really pushed the 400 gr LFN mold loaded at about 1500 fps
    Can anyone tell me the differences between the LFN, WFN and WLN?
    I’m thinking about ordering 2 molds from him. The 400 gr LFN and also something along the lines of 500 gr. Should I go with the recommended profile and size of Veral or should I get the WFN? Which profile should I get in the heavier 500 gr range?

  2. #2
    Sidewinder
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    Veral makes the molds, he knows what he's talking about.
    oh-behi and Sweetwater like this.
    grit yer teeth an pull the trigger

  3. #3
    Deadeye
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    -- Delete Dupe --

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  5. #4
    Deadeye
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  6. #5
    Tinhorn
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    Thanks for the replies. I think I’ll order the LFN that Veral recommends in 400 gr then I’ll also see if he can make a WLN also

  7. #6
    Marlin Marksman
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    Your best track with Veral is to send him a chamber/leade slug from your barrel. Talk with him - and then buy whatever he recommends.

    Just know now this one thing...

    Casting your own bullets is it's own hobby rat-hole. You will have $300-$400 into it just to really get going between casting pot, dippers, welding gloves, casting molds, mold handles, lube sizer, and lube dies. Don't forget a quality caliper and micrometer. Then there is the expense of lead alloy, bullet lube, gas checks, etc....

    If you are just loading 100 or 200 bullets a year - it's nowhere close to "worth it" from a money perspective. 100 comercial cast 405 grain rifle bullets will cost you probably $50.00+ shipping.

    I am not telling you not to do it. I like casting my own bullets. I am just trying to help you open your eyes to what it will cost. .
    TRAILS-END, Travlin and northmn like this.

  8. #7
    Super Moderator
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    Nah - you don't need all that crap to cast.
    Don't get me wrong - it's nice, but not necessary.
    You can use an old pot, coleman stove and a ladle to melt and dip lead.
    Hit up Home Depot for free sawdust to use as flux.
    Molds are the priciest part.
    You can still find wheel weights or buy ingots of WW and linotype off eBay or sites like CastBoolits.com
    Lee has sizing dies but they are all standard and useless on Marlins which run oversize. Veral will deliver a mold that drops boolits on the money.
    Accurate Molds also will ask what mix you're using and your rifle and will deliver spot on molds that literally don't need sizing.
    You can make your own lube cheap or just use the Alox that Lee hands out with any of their $19 molds.
    Besides - it's hard finding commercial cast that fit your gun. Dardas - a sponsor here - understands Marlins and will deliver properly sized boolits, but it's rare to find others.
    Whups - I just checked - Matt closed shop last year. Dang.
    rob42049 and Drm50 like this.
    "The further a society drifts from truth, the more it will hate those who speak it."
    George Orwell

  9. #8
    Tinhorn
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    Well I spoke to Veral again and sent him my order form and money order. I ended up going with what he suggested and just got the one mould for now.

    Now I just need to figure out what all else I need to get going. Many thanks to all the replies. I still have a lot to learn

  10. #9
    Gun Wizard
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    Biggest problem I see in casting your own is the availability of the lead itself. I got a bucketful of wheel weights a few years ago and unless you can find a source they are no longer available like they once were. Pure lead used to be available from plumbing supplies and is no longer used for that purpose. About my best source has been bird shot. Tin is not cheap anymore either. Economy wise I agree with Truck John.

    Bubba John hit on the issue of the custom fit to your rifle. Most commercial cast will come in different diameters but I do not like the hard cast alloy for anything but plinking loads. I use them for my 357 as tractor loads as I am not shooting anything bigger than coyotes. For a hunting load I like to be able to control the alloy as well as the sizing. I have made loads at about 2000 fps that perform great as well as at 1400.

    DEP
    Sweetwater and Prickle Farmer like this.

  11. #10
    Site Contributor Super Moderator
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    I also take exception to the "hard cast" commercial bullets that every one is selling these days. My straight wheelweights water dropped straight from the mold hardens the surface so the bullet holds together up to at least 2600fps (as fast as I've driven them so far) and leaves the rest of the bullet soft enough to open up on game. Antelope, deer, and elk out to 150 yards from 32Wspl - 183gr at near 2300fps. And no, you don't need to spend a lot of money to start casting, but you can. My only electric pot is a 10# Lee, bought at a yard sale in a box with 15#of pure lead and lyman lubrasizer with several sizing dies, all for the princely sum of $25. I sold the lead to a BPCR competitive pal of mine for $10 win-win. I have used my coleman stove, the gas stove in my camper, the electric stove in my house, a gas burner in the shop, a campfire at the lake. Whatever works for a heat supply and any cast iron pot at a thrift store. Watch the shopping guides for a private sale of "his" stuff. They are everywhere...good luck and trust Veral. You may not understand his concepts and you may not agree with all of it (I've known him over 40 years and still don't) but he will not steer you wrong and he does stand by his stuff. He has a profile along with the LFN, WFN, etc that is for Marlin rifles. I doubt very much you will ever get a WFN to feed as it is so fat and the Marlin chambers are so not cut to fit that. A WLN might, but what ever Veral cuts you WILL feed so do go with his recommendations. You will be blessed..
    Sweetwater
    WDRA, Billy Dixon Em
    Team 35 Mbr #75
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